Common Parasites that Affect Mini Pigs
Common Parasites: An Overview
External parasites: Parasites that live on the skin of the pig.
Fleas: While fleas are not common on adult healthy pigs because the skin is too tough to bite through, they can infest young piglets and hitch a ride if other pets in the environment have fleas. Advantix, Advantage and Frontline (labeled for dogs) are safe for pigs if you follow the weight dosing. You can buy these from your veterinarian according to the weight of your pig.
Mites are tiny microscopic external parasites that live on pigs skin. They are also referred to as scabies or sarcoptic mange. This is a very common parasite, infecting approximately 60% of national herds. The first symptom is excessive scratching or rubbing against objects. The common signs are ear shaking and severe rubbing of the skin against the sides of the pen or where ever your pig can satisfy the itch. Approximately three to eight weeks after initial infection the skin becomes sensitised to the mite protein and a severe allergy may develop with very tiny red pimples covering the whole of the skin. These cause intense irritation and rubbing to the point where bleeding may occur. Head shaking is a common symptom and hairs are often rubbed away leaving bare patches. The incubation period to the appearance of clinical signs is approximately three weeks although it may be several months before signs are noticed. The life cycle takes 14-15 days from adult to adult to complete. The mite spreads directly from pig to pig, either by close skin contact or contact with recently contaminated surfaces. If pigs are housed in groups there is increased opportunity for spread. The mite dies quickly away from the pig, under most farm conditions, in less than five days. These mites can be spread to other pets and family members, but cannot survive or reproduce away from their pig host. Treatment is with ivermectin or Dectomax, either by injection or given orally with food. All medications are ineffective against the eggs hence the need to treat twice, 10-14 days apart.
http://www.thepigsite.com/pighealth
http://www.merckmanuals.com
http://vetmed.iastate.edu/vdpam
Two types of mange mites:
Sarcoptic: Most common type and caused by the mite S. scabiei var.sis. The 1st skin lesions appear about 3 weeks after contact with the mites as small encrustations around the ears, eyes, snout that develop in plaques about 5mm in diameter. The lesions in the ear may regress and disappear in 12-18 weeks. Early pruritus (itchiness) is due to the local irritation from the mites establishing themselves in the skin. As the ear lesions regress, focal erythematous papules associated with the hypersensitivity occur on the rump, flank and abdomen. Mites are NOT usually found in these lesions. The hypersensitivity causes further pruritus, which results in excessive rubbing and the liberation of tissue fluids, giving the animal a shiny or "greasy" appearance. That is followed by coagulation and drying of the serum and sebum to form crusts. In more chronic cases, excessive keratinization and proliferation of the connective tissue occur, with the result that the skin becomes thickened and wrinkled. A common sign is head shaking and the development of large hematoma on the inner surface of the ear.
Demodectic: Caused by Demodex phylloides which live in the hair follicle or sebaceous glands the skin. Clinical signs are seen when pigs are in poor or debilitated conditions normally. These mites usually invade the soft skin of the snout and around the eyes but can spread across the entire body. Infection is not uncommon on the abdomen and between the legs. Lesions start as small red spots that become scaly with a nodular appearance. The nodules contain white caseous material and many mites. Mites cane found on skin scrapings from around the eyes in pigs showing no clinical signs. Treatment can be difficult and sometimes several affected animals cannot be successfully treated.
www.uaex.edu/publications/pdf/FSA-3077.pdf
Transmission of pig mites to humans and other pets:
From the CDC:
"What is scabies?"
Scabies is an infestation of the skin by the human itch mite (Sarcoptes scabiei var. hominis). The microscopic scabies mite burrows into the upper layer of the skin where it lives and lays its eggs. The most common symptoms of scabies are intense itching and a pimple-like skin rash. The scabies mite usually is spread by direct, prolonged, skin-to-skin contact with a person who has scabies.
Scabies is found worldwide and affects people of all races and social classes. Scabies can spread rapidly under crowded conditions where close body and skin contact is frequent. Institutions such as nursing homes, extended-care facilities, and prisons are often sites of scabies outbreaks. Child care facilities also are a common site of scabies infestations. This is NOT the same mite that affects pigs.
Can I get scabies from my pet?
No. Animals do not spread human scabies. Pets can become infested with a different kind of scabies mite that does not survive or reproduce on humans but causes "mange" in animals. If an animal with "mange" has close contact with a person, the animal mite can get under the person’s skin and cause temporary itching and skin irritation. However, the animal mite cannot reproduce on a person and will die on its own in a couple of days. Although the person does not need to be treated, the animal should be treated because its mites can continue to burrow into the person’s skin and cause symptoms until the animal has been treated successfully." Some people have chosen to seek treatment from their family physician and that treatment should eradicate any symptoms you may be having as well, but it is NOT necessary as these mites cannot survive on humans.
http://www.cdc.gov/parasites
From Dr. Carr:
"The disease is spread through pig to pig contact and through pigs coming into contact with infested building.
The mite is able to survive 21 days off the host in ideal situations. The warmer and drier the conditions the shorter the survival time.The pig mange mite does not live in or on other hosts."
http://www.carrsconsulting.com
From Iowa State University:
"Sarcoptic mange is a common disease and represents the most important ectoparasitic disease of swine. Sarcoptic mange occurs in many other species but the mite Sarcoptes scabiei var suis is specific only for swine. "
http://vetmed.iastate.edu
Pigs4Ever:
"Can a human get mange? If so, what would it be like? Mange on a human is usually an itchy red rash...REALLY ITCHY!! You shouldn't have to worry too much about that as most cases on humans happen when the pig is really loaded with it and people take them to bed with them. The mites don't like us as well as the pigs so it's usually a light case and will go away on it's own with simple nothing."
http://potbelliedpigs4ever.blogspot.com/2011/10/worming-and-mange-mites
From parasitipedia.net:
"Sarcoptic mange mites are very small (0.45 mm long) and can be seen only under microscope. There are species-specific strains that attack cattle, sheep, goats and also humans. As a general rule, pig mange mites are not contagious for cattle, sheep, or humans, and vice-versa."
http://parasitipedia.net/index.
Lice are a less common external parasite that can be seen crawling on your pig. They are approximately 3 mm long and congregate behind the pig's ears, between the legs, and elbows. The adult female lays 2-4 eggs per day over a period of 20-30 days. The eggs are attached to the hair by a cement like substance and they hatch out as nymphs 10-21 days afterwards. The cycle from adult to adult is approximately 30 days. They are blood sucking and cause a certain amount of irritation but their economic effects are probably relatively low. They are aesthetically however not acceptable and severe infestations can cause anemia. Treatment is with ivermectin, all medications are ineffective against the eggs hence the need to treat twice, 10-14 days apart. (see picture below) Pig louse can ONLY survive on pigs and although you may see one on you or your hand, you will not "catch" pig lice. They are species specific.
Ticks are practically everywhere in the US and often found on mini pigs. There are several products that you can use in your yard to reduce the number of ticks. Tick Warriors is our favorite all natural, "pet-safe" product that is so safe, you can use the spray directly on your pig.
http://vetmed.iastate.edu
http://www.thepigsite.com
http://www.merckmanuals.com
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ig138
Fleas: While fleas are not common on adult healthy pigs because the skin is too tough to bite through, they can infest young piglets and hitch a ride if other pets in the environment have fleas. Advantix, Advantage and Frontline (labeled for dogs) are safe for pigs if you follow the weight dosing. You can buy these from your veterinarian according to the weight of your pig.
Mites are tiny microscopic external parasites that live on pigs skin. They are also referred to as scabies or sarcoptic mange. This is a very common parasite, infecting approximately 60% of national herds. The first symptom is excessive scratching or rubbing against objects. The common signs are ear shaking and severe rubbing of the skin against the sides of the pen or where ever your pig can satisfy the itch. Approximately three to eight weeks after initial infection the skin becomes sensitised to the mite protein and a severe allergy may develop with very tiny red pimples covering the whole of the skin. These cause intense irritation and rubbing to the point where bleeding may occur. Head shaking is a common symptom and hairs are often rubbed away leaving bare patches. The incubation period to the appearance of clinical signs is approximately three weeks although it may be several months before signs are noticed. The life cycle takes 14-15 days from adult to adult to complete. The mite spreads directly from pig to pig, either by close skin contact or contact with recently contaminated surfaces. If pigs are housed in groups there is increased opportunity for spread. The mite dies quickly away from the pig, under most farm conditions, in less than five days. These mites can be spread to other pets and family members, but cannot survive or reproduce away from their pig host. Treatment is with ivermectin or Dectomax, either by injection or given orally with food. All medications are ineffective against the eggs hence the need to treat twice, 10-14 days apart.
http://www.thepigsite.com/pighealth
http://www.merckmanuals.com
http://vetmed.iastate.edu/vdpam
Two types of mange mites:
Sarcoptic: Most common type and caused by the mite S. scabiei var.sis. The 1st skin lesions appear about 3 weeks after contact with the mites as small encrustations around the ears, eyes, snout that develop in plaques about 5mm in diameter. The lesions in the ear may regress and disappear in 12-18 weeks. Early pruritus (itchiness) is due to the local irritation from the mites establishing themselves in the skin. As the ear lesions regress, focal erythematous papules associated with the hypersensitivity occur on the rump, flank and abdomen. Mites are NOT usually found in these lesions. The hypersensitivity causes further pruritus, which results in excessive rubbing and the liberation of tissue fluids, giving the animal a shiny or "greasy" appearance. That is followed by coagulation and drying of the serum and sebum to form crusts. In more chronic cases, excessive keratinization and proliferation of the connective tissue occur, with the result that the skin becomes thickened and wrinkled. A common sign is head shaking and the development of large hematoma on the inner surface of the ear.
Demodectic: Caused by Demodex phylloides which live in the hair follicle or sebaceous glands the skin. Clinical signs are seen when pigs are in poor or debilitated conditions normally. These mites usually invade the soft skin of the snout and around the eyes but can spread across the entire body. Infection is not uncommon on the abdomen and between the legs. Lesions start as small red spots that become scaly with a nodular appearance. The nodules contain white caseous material and many mites. Mites cane found on skin scrapings from around the eyes in pigs showing no clinical signs. Treatment can be difficult and sometimes several affected animals cannot be successfully treated.
www.uaex.edu/publications/pdf/FSA-3077.pdf
Transmission of pig mites to humans and other pets:
From the CDC:
"What is scabies?"
Scabies is an infestation of the skin by the human itch mite (Sarcoptes scabiei var. hominis). The microscopic scabies mite burrows into the upper layer of the skin where it lives and lays its eggs. The most common symptoms of scabies are intense itching and a pimple-like skin rash. The scabies mite usually is spread by direct, prolonged, skin-to-skin contact with a person who has scabies.
Scabies is found worldwide and affects people of all races and social classes. Scabies can spread rapidly under crowded conditions where close body and skin contact is frequent. Institutions such as nursing homes, extended-care facilities, and prisons are often sites of scabies outbreaks. Child care facilities also are a common site of scabies infestations. This is NOT the same mite that affects pigs.
Can I get scabies from my pet?
No. Animals do not spread human scabies. Pets can become infested with a different kind of scabies mite that does not survive or reproduce on humans but causes "mange" in animals. If an animal with "mange" has close contact with a person, the animal mite can get under the person’s skin and cause temporary itching and skin irritation. However, the animal mite cannot reproduce on a person and will die on its own in a couple of days. Although the person does not need to be treated, the animal should be treated because its mites can continue to burrow into the person’s skin and cause symptoms until the animal has been treated successfully." Some people have chosen to seek treatment from their family physician and that treatment should eradicate any symptoms you may be having as well, but it is NOT necessary as these mites cannot survive on humans.
http://www.cdc.gov/parasites
From Dr. Carr:
"The disease is spread through pig to pig contact and through pigs coming into contact with infested building.
The mite is able to survive 21 days off the host in ideal situations. The warmer and drier the conditions the shorter the survival time.The pig mange mite does not live in or on other hosts."
http://www.carrsconsulting.com
From Iowa State University:
"Sarcoptic mange is a common disease and represents the most important ectoparasitic disease of swine. Sarcoptic mange occurs in many other species but the mite Sarcoptes scabiei var suis is specific only for swine. "
http://vetmed.iastate.edu
Pigs4Ever:
"Can a human get mange? If so, what would it be like? Mange on a human is usually an itchy red rash...REALLY ITCHY!! You shouldn't have to worry too much about that as most cases on humans happen when the pig is really loaded with it and people take them to bed with them. The mites don't like us as well as the pigs so it's usually a light case and will go away on it's own with simple nothing."
http://potbelliedpigs4ever.blogspot.com/2011/10/worming-and-mange-mites
From parasitipedia.net:
"Sarcoptic mange mites are very small (0.45 mm long) and can be seen only under microscope. There are species-specific strains that attack cattle, sheep, goats and also humans. As a general rule, pig mange mites are not contagious for cattle, sheep, or humans, and vice-versa."
http://parasitipedia.net/index.
Lice are a less common external parasite that can be seen crawling on your pig. They are approximately 3 mm long and congregate behind the pig's ears, between the legs, and elbows. The adult female lays 2-4 eggs per day over a period of 20-30 days. The eggs are attached to the hair by a cement like substance and they hatch out as nymphs 10-21 days afterwards. The cycle from adult to adult is approximately 30 days. They are blood sucking and cause a certain amount of irritation but their economic effects are probably relatively low. They are aesthetically however not acceptable and severe infestations can cause anemia. Treatment is with ivermectin, all medications are ineffective against the eggs hence the need to treat twice, 10-14 days apart. (see picture below) Pig louse can ONLY survive on pigs and although you may see one on you or your hand, you will not "catch" pig lice. They are species specific.
Ticks are practically everywhere in the US and often found on mini pigs. There are several products that you can use in your yard to reduce the number of ticks. Tick Warriors is our favorite all natural, "pet-safe" product that is so safe, you can use the spray directly on your pig.
http://vetmed.iastate.edu
http://www.thepigsite.com
http://www.merckmanuals.com
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ig138
Internal parasites: These must all use nutrients from the host to multiply and survive. They are found in the digestive tract, the kidneys, liver, lungs or the blood stream.
Types of parasitic worms of veterinary importance
There are three major types of helminths of parasitic importance, each one with similar anatomic characteristics and comparable life cycles:
An overview of these internal parasites can be found on the link below. Keep in mind, some of these internal parasites ARE transmissible to humans should something you ingest be contaminated with the larva.
Cysticercus cellulosae found in pigs is the intermediate stage of the tapeworm. Cysticerci in pigs are found in the brain, liver, heart and skeletal muscles. They cause an inflammatory response in the muscle and central nervous system. In humans, auto-infection can occur from the adult worm in the intestine. The most frequently affected site is the central nervous system.
Trichinella spiralis is a nematode which parasitizes pigs, dogs, cats, mice, wild boar and other carnivorous game, humans and other mammals. Larvae penetrate the epithelial lining of the small intestine, undergo four moults and become sexually mature adults. The adult worms are 1 – 4 mm long. The newborn larvae pass to the striated muscles by the lymphatics and the blood stream.
Sparganosis in pigs is seen in the Asia-Pacific region and some other parts of the world and is caused by spargana, the larval (plerocercoid) stages of the tape worm Spirometra erinacei. The adult tape worm Spirometra erinacei lives in the small intestine of the cat, fox and dog. The egg passed in the faeces develops into a ciliated coracidium in water, which when ingested by cyclops (the water flea), the first intermediate host, develops into a procercoid. If the cyclops with the procercoid is eaten by a frog, the second intermediate host, the procercoid develops into a plerocercoid which resembles the adult tape worm in miniature but without the genitalia. When these frogs are eaten by a cat, fox and dog the plerocercoid develops into mature tape worms - Spirometra erinacei. However, if a frog is eaten by a pig or other animals such as snakes the plerocercoid migrates to certain tissues, particularly the skeletal muscles where they appear as cysts up to 6 mm long or as ribbon like structures about 5 cm long with a miniature scolex. These are termed spargana. Humans can be infected with spargana.
Porcine babesiosis (Piroplasmosis, Texas fever, Red water, Tick fever) of swine, cattle, horses, sheep and swine is a protozoan disease caused by various species of protozoa in the genus Babesia. Babesiosis in swine is caused by B. trautmaniand B. perroncitoi. The percentage of parasitized erythrocytes may be up to 60 % in swine. Pregnant sows may abort. Abortion is associated with febrile animals. It is believed that the source of infection for domestic swine are often feral pigs.
Toxoplasmosis is contagious disease of swine, sheep and other species characterized with encephalitis, pneumonia and neonatal mortality. It is caused by protozoon Toxoplasma gondii in animals and humans. Toxoplasma is most frequently found in pigs and sheep. Young animals are infected to a lesser degree than old animals. Cattle are rarely affected with clinical toxoplasmosis. Young pigs may die from pneumonia caused by toxoplasmosis. Humans can get infected with Toxoplasma cysts by ingestion of uncooked animal tissue. In humans clinical symptoms may vary from fever, malaise, skin rash, pneumonia, myocarditis, lymphadenopathy and encephalitis. Infected pregnant women may transfer the tachyzoites to the fetus.
Direct and indirect life cycles
There are two major types of life cycles, depending basically on the number of host:
Routes of entry into the host
Infective stages of parasitic worms have several routes of entry into their hosts, whereby each species usually follows one of these routes:
University of Florida has reported a new potentially life threatening rat lungworm June 2017.
Infection with rat lungworm can also cause meningitis in animals, as well as limb weakness or paralysis, neck pain and central nervous system problems.
To protect pets and livestock, be mindful of snails in animals’ living space, Stockdale Walden said. Check watering troughs for snails that might have fallen in and monitor animals for snail-eating habits. Read article in its' entirety by clicking here.
Types of parasitic worms of veterinary importance
There are three major types of helminths of parasitic importance, each one with similar anatomic characteristics and comparable life cycles:
- Roundworms (nematodes). They belong to the group of Nemathelminthes. They look just like worms, more or less long and thick. Close to 30'000 species are known, more than 16'000 parasitic ones.
- Flukes (trematodes). They belong to the group of Platyhelminthes (= flat worms). There are about 20'000 species, most of them parasitic of mollusks and vertebrates. They often have an oval form.
- Tapeworms (cestodes). They belong also to the group of Platyhelminthes (= flat worms). About 1'000 species are known, all parasitic of vertebrates, including livestock, pets and humans.
- Protozoa (Protozoa) Protozoa are small single celled organisms that are found in the small and large intestine. There are four found in the pig of any significance, including coccidia, balantidium coli, cryptosporidia and toxoplasma. Of these, coccidia are the only one of importance and then normally only in the young pig.
An overview of these internal parasites can be found on the link below. Keep in mind, some of these internal parasites ARE transmissible to humans should something you ingest be contaminated with the larva.
Cysticercus cellulosae found in pigs is the intermediate stage of the tapeworm. Cysticerci in pigs are found in the brain, liver, heart and skeletal muscles. They cause an inflammatory response in the muscle and central nervous system. In humans, auto-infection can occur from the adult worm in the intestine. The most frequently affected site is the central nervous system.
Trichinella spiralis is a nematode which parasitizes pigs, dogs, cats, mice, wild boar and other carnivorous game, humans and other mammals. Larvae penetrate the epithelial lining of the small intestine, undergo four moults and become sexually mature adults. The adult worms are 1 – 4 mm long. The newborn larvae pass to the striated muscles by the lymphatics and the blood stream.
Sparganosis in pigs is seen in the Asia-Pacific region and some other parts of the world and is caused by spargana, the larval (plerocercoid) stages of the tape worm Spirometra erinacei. The adult tape worm Spirometra erinacei lives in the small intestine of the cat, fox and dog. The egg passed in the faeces develops into a ciliated coracidium in water, which when ingested by cyclops (the water flea), the first intermediate host, develops into a procercoid. If the cyclops with the procercoid is eaten by a frog, the second intermediate host, the procercoid develops into a plerocercoid which resembles the adult tape worm in miniature but without the genitalia. When these frogs are eaten by a cat, fox and dog the plerocercoid develops into mature tape worms - Spirometra erinacei. However, if a frog is eaten by a pig or other animals such as snakes the plerocercoid migrates to certain tissues, particularly the skeletal muscles where they appear as cysts up to 6 mm long or as ribbon like structures about 5 cm long with a miniature scolex. These are termed spargana. Humans can be infected with spargana.
Porcine babesiosis (Piroplasmosis, Texas fever, Red water, Tick fever) of swine, cattle, horses, sheep and swine is a protozoan disease caused by various species of protozoa in the genus Babesia. Babesiosis in swine is caused by B. trautmaniand B. perroncitoi. The percentage of parasitized erythrocytes may be up to 60 % in swine. Pregnant sows may abort. Abortion is associated with febrile animals. It is believed that the source of infection for domestic swine are often feral pigs.
Toxoplasmosis is contagious disease of swine, sheep and other species characterized with encephalitis, pneumonia and neonatal mortality. It is caused by protozoon Toxoplasma gondii in animals and humans. Toxoplasma is most frequently found in pigs and sheep. Young animals are infected to a lesser degree than old animals. Cattle are rarely affected with clinical toxoplasmosis. Young pigs may die from pneumonia caused by toxoplasmosis. Humans can get infected with Toxoplasma cysts by ingestion of uncooked animal tissue. In humans clinical symptoms may vary from fever, malaise, skin rash, pneumonia, myocarditis, lymphadenopathy and encephalitis. Infected pregnant women may transfer the tachyzoites to the fetus.
Direct and indirect life cycles
There are two major types of life cycles, depending basically on the number of host:
- Direct life cycles, with a single host that is called definitive or final host, where the worms reach maturity and reproduce. Roundworms often have direct life cycles.
- Indirect life cycles: with at least one obligate intermediate host in addition to the final host. Typical intermediate hosts are often small invertebrates such as snails, insects, crustaceans, etc. The worms complete certain development stages inside these intermediate hosts, with or without harming them. In some species the immature stages can multiply asexually inside the intermediate hosts. The final hosts get infected mostly by ingestion of infected intermediate hosts. Flukes (trematodes) and tapeworms (cestodes) often have indirect life cycles. Some species have even two obligate intermediate hosts (e.g. Dicrocoelium dendriticum).
Routes of entry into the host
Infective stages of parasitic worms have several routes of entry into their hosts, whereby each species usually follows one of these routes:
- Entry through a natural opening, mostly through the mouth, quite seldom through the anus, the nose, or other openings. Ingestion through the mouth is mostly passive, i.e. infective stages are ingested with contaminated food.
- Entry through the skin, either actively penetrating it by its own efforts, or passively through the bite of a vector(insects, ticks, etc.) that transmits infective stages. A special case is transplacental transmission, i.e. are those worms that can be from mothers to their young inside the uterus.
University of Florida has reported a new potentially life threatening rat lungworm June 2017.
Infection with rat lungworm can also cause meningitis in animals, as well as limb weakness or paralysis, neck pain and central nervous system problems.
To protect pets and livestock, be mindful of snails in animals’ living space, Stockdale Walden said. Check watering troughs for snails that might have fallen in and monitor animals for snail-eating habits. Read article in its' entirety by clicking here.
Kidney Worms cause an unthrifty appearance, slow growth, poor feed conversion and occasionally death.
Wooded lots and shaded farrowing pens often become contaminated areas where larvae hatch from eggs and enter the soil. Pigs may become exposed to infective larvae by ingestion, skin penetration, and ingestion of infected earthworms. Larvae then move from the small intestine and eventually into the liver, where they remain for two to four months. Other organs such as the lungs and spleen may also be infected. From the liver, larvae migrate to areas around and in the kidneys and even into back muscle. Most of the damage is found in the liver, which becomes heavily scarred, and in nearby muscle tissue.
Wooded lots and shaded farrowing pens often become contaminated areas where larvae hatch from eggs and enter the soil. Pigs may become exposed to infective larvae by ingestion, skin penetration, and ingestion of infected earthworms. Larvae then move from the small intestine and eventually into the liver, where they remain for two to four months. Other organs such as the lungs and spleen may also be infected. From the liver, larvae migrate to areas around and in the kidneys and even into back muscle. Most of the damage is found in the liver, which becomes heavily scarred, and in nearby muscle tissue.
Large Roundworms are a common parasite infecting pigs. The adult parasite is a long white worm similar in size/shape to a spaghetti noodle. This parasite is zoonotic, it can be passed between pigs, humans, and other pets. Even single pig households are susceptible to large roundworms. A. suum eggs are extremely hardy and can survive for as long as 15 years in the environment. They remain viable in swine effluent water for at least 14 months. The eggs can be transported by infested pigs, insects, fomites, blowing dust, pig manure, and effluent. Symptoms or complications of roundworm infestation will not show until the parasite has taken a significant toll on your pig's health. Roundworms can cause pneumonia, unthriftiness, failure to gain weight, rough hair coat, intestinal blockage, pendulous abdomen, chronic paroxysmal coughing and occasionally, abdominal expiratory dyspnea (“thumping”). Heavy infections can result in hundreds of ascarids in the intestine of a single pig. The eggs are ingested then hatch in the intestine, the larvae migrate through the wall and via the blood enter the liver. They then migrate through the liver to the lungs, finally reaching the trachea where they are coughed up, swallowed and returned to the small intestine to develop into adults. Large Roundworms are easily treated with ivermectin or fenbendazole.
Lung Worms live in the air passages and can lead to an infection of the lower respiratory tract, usually resulting in bronchitis or pneumonia. Pigs with many lungworms are unthrifty, have a rough hair coat, and are small for their age.
Thread worms occur commonly in baby pigs. The adults are practically microscopic and live in the wall of the small intestine. Heavy infections may cause intensive scouring in neonatal pigs, resulting in acute dehydration. The threadworm (aka Strongyloides) lives in soil contaminated by infected feces. Unlike the other round worms of the intestine the threadworm larvae enter the pig by penetrating the skin or mucous membranes of the mouth and are transported by the blood to the lungs, coughed up and swallowed. They then develop to maturity in the small intestine. The infective larvae can also cross the placenta or be excreted by the colostrum and therefore infect piglets within 24 hours of birth. The prepatent period is from 3-7 days. Strongyloides ransomi is also particularly harmful for piglets. Massive infections cause hemorrhagic or mucous diarrhea, anemia and even sudden death. Other symptoms include coughing and abdominal pain.
Whipworms are another common parasite in pigs. This is another zoonotic parasite that can be transmitted to humans and other pets. In the United States, whipworms were one of the three most prevalent internal parasites of swine. The pigs pickup this parasite while grazing or rooting in the dirt. The adult worms are 5–6 cm long and whip-shaped; the anterior slender portion embeds within the epithelial cells of the large intestine, especially the cecum, with the thickened posterior third lying free in the lumen. Damage occurs to the pigs intestines with inflammation and lesions. Weight loss and diarrhea are symptoms of a whipworm infestation. Whipworms are easily treated with fenbendazole. Ivermectin has been used for whipworms with varying success.
Information collected by Stephanie Matlock and Brittany Sawyer.
Information collected by Stephanie Matlock and Brittany Sawyer.
Sources for above information:
http://www.thepigsite.com
http://www.merckmanuals.com
http://vetmed.iastate.ed
http://www.morrisvetcenter.com
http://www.merckmanuals.com/vet
http://www.merckvetmanual.com/parasites_of_pigs/strongyloides
http://www.vetnext.com
http://vetmed.iastate.edu/vdpam
http://vetmed.iastate.edu/vdpam/swine-diseases/kidney-worm-infectio
http://www.thepigsite.com
http://www.merckmanuals.com
http://vetmed.iastate.ed
http://www.morrisvetcenter.com
http://www.merckmanuals.com/vet
http://www.merckvetmanual.com/parasites_of_pigs/strongyloides
http://www.vetnext.com
http://vetmed.iastate.edu/vdpam
http://vetmed.iastate.edu/vdpam/swine-diseases/kidney-worm-infectio
Types of parasites: internal and external
External Parasites
Biting insects (hematophagous), i.e. they suck blood
~ click here to read more about ticks and pigs
Biting insects (hematophagous), i.e. they suck blood
- Black flies, gnats. Local problem in endemic regions, wordlwide, only on swine kept outdoors.
- Fleas. Local problem in livestock kept indoors by warm and humid weather, worldwide.
- Midges. Local problem in endemic regions, worldwide.
- Mosquitoes. A worldwide problem in all kind of livestock, but usually not the major issue. No issue in swine kept indoors.
- Stable flies. Can be a significant problem in swine kept outdoors by warm and humid weather, worldwide. No issue in swine kept indoors.
- Tsetse flies. A problem in Africa in all livestock kept outdoors.
- Horseflies. Usually a minor problem in all livestock kept outdoors by warm weather, worldwide. No issue in swine kept indoors.
- Houseflies. Can be a serious problem in swine operations worldwide, both indoors and outdoors, mainly in the warm and humid season.
- Filth & nuisance flies. Usually a secondary issue in swine operations, mainly in the warm and humid season.
- Lice. Very common problem worldwide, even in indoor operations, particularly during the cold season.
- Human bot flies, Dermatobia. A problem in many regions of Central and South America, only on swine kept outdoors.
- Screwworm flies. Usually not a very serious problem for swine, unless outdoors in endemic regions in tropical and subtropical countries.
- Wohlfahrtia. Occasionally a problem in Mediterranean countries during summer on swine kept outdoors
~ click here to read more about ticks and pigs
- Amblyomma ticks. A problem only for grazing pigs in tropical and subtropical regions, mainly America and Africa. Not an issue for industrial pig production.
- Dermacentor ticks. A problem only for grazing pigs during the war season. Not an issue for industrial pig production.
- Haemaphysalis ticks. A problem only for grazing pigs in tropical and subtropical regions, mainly in parts of Asia Africa and Europe. Not an issue for industrial pig production.
- Hyalomma ticks. A problem only for grazing pigs in tropical and subtropical regions, mainly in parts of Asia Africa and Europe. Not an issue for industrial pig production.
- Ixodes ticks. A problem only for grazing pigs in regions with moderate to cold climate, during spring and summer. tropical and subtropical regions, mainly America and Africa. Not an issue for industrial pig production.
- Rhipicephalus ticks. A problem only for grazing pigs in tropical and subtropical regions, mainly in Africa. Not an issue for industrial pig production.
- Mange mites. A problem worldwide in all kind of pigs, also indoors. Is found worldwide, but more frequent during the cold season in regions with temperate or cold climate.
Internal parasites
(endoparasites, worms, helminths)
The parasites' preferred location sites are indicated in brackets.
Gastrointestinal roundworms (nematodes)
(endoparasites, worms, helminths)
The parasites' preferred location sites are indicated in brackets.
Gastrointestinal roundworms (nematodes)
- Ascaris suum. Pig roundworm. (Small intestine). Worldwide, more in tropical and subtropical regions.
- Globocephalus spp. Pig hookworm. (Small intestine). Worldwide, but regional incidence.
- Gnathostoma hispidum. (Stomach). Mainly Europe, Asia and Africa.
- Hyostrongylus rubidus. Red stomach worm. (Stomach). Worldwide, mostly in mixed infections.
- Mecistocirrus digitatus. (Stomach). Worldwide, more in warm and humid regions. Mostly in mixed infections.
- Oesophagostomum spp. Nodular worm. (Large intestine). Worldwide, mostly in mixed infections.
- Strongyloides spp. Threadworms, pinworms. (Small intestine). Worldwide, more in warm and humid regions.
- Trichostrongylus axei. (Stomach). Worldwide, mostly in mixed infections.
- Trichuris spp. Whipworms. (Large intestine). Worldwide.
- Metastrongylus spp. Pig lungworm. (Trachea, bronchi, bronchioles). Worldwide.
- Stephanurus dentatus. Kidney worm. (Kidneys). In tropical and subtropical regions.
- Suifilaria suis. (Skin). Southern Africa.
- Trichinella spp. (Muscles, small intestine). Worldwide.
- Dicrocoelium spp. Lancet fluke. (Bile ducts and gall bladder). A problem only for grazing pigs worldwide. Not an issue for industrial pig production.
- Eurytrema pancreaticum. Pancreas fluke. (Pancreatic ducts). In South America, Asia and África, in swine kept outdoors. Not an issue for industrial pig production.
- Fasciola gigantica. Giant liver fluke. (Liver tissue, biliary ducts and gallbladder). A problem only for grazing pigs worldwide. Not an issue for industrial pig production.
- Fasciola hepatica. Common liver fluke. (Biliary ducts and gallbladder). A problem only for grazing pigs worldwide. Not an issue for industrial pig production.
- Cysticercus cellulosae. Pork bladder worm. (Muscles). Worldwide in swine kept outdoors.
- Cysticercus tenuicollis. (Abdominal organs). Worldwide in swine kept outdoors.
- Echinococcus granulosus. Hydatid worm. (Various organs). Worldwide in swine kept outdoors.
Seed Ticks!
These "pests" can be found in pretty much any area of the county and the seem to be coming out earlier and earlier. Should you detect a tick on your pig, it should be removed immediately. Lyme's Disease CAN be passed on to pigs. Below are pictures a friend sent asking what the problem could be. Being from a tick infested area myself, I knew what the problem was almost immediately. Frontline Advanced or Advantage Plus can be safely used in pigs...you MUST pay attention to the weight restrictions though. Do NOT use ANY product on your pig without first checking with YOUR vet.
The ticks below are "seed ticks" which are essentially baby ticks. They're barely visible to the naked eye, so you have to look for other clues that your pig may have a small tick infestation. Once treated, this particular pig did great. Come to find out, they were staying, literally, on a tick nest. It took quite a few days and proactively treating for anymore before he recovered.
Click here to read more about ticks and how to control them in your yard.
The ticks below are "seed ticks" which are essentially baby ticks. They're barely visible to the naked eye, so you have to look for other clues that your pig may have a small tick infestation. Once treated, this particular pig did great. Come to find out, they were staying, literally, on a tick nest. It took quite a few days and proactively treating for anymore before he recovered.
Click here to read more about ticks and how to control them in your yard.
Ticks and Mini Pigs
Ticks are fairly common in the warmer months for most of the United States. Factoring in a mild winter for the East Coast this past year, ticks are a BIG problem in those states already and the season should just be beginning. Ticks are more than just a "pest", certain ticks can be carriers of serious illnesses like Lyme's Disease and this CAN BE spread to pigs from the bite of an infected tick. Since ticks must be in areas of high humidity to survive, they are most commonly found in grassy, brushy, wooded, and shaded areas. There are several species that vary in appearance, but all of the adults are small, round with eight legs. All ticks feed exclusively on the blood of vertebrates. There are two families of ticks: hard ticks and soft ticks. They have four stages in their life: egg, larva, nymph and adult.
Mating usually occurs while adult ticks are on the body of the host animal. The female then drops to the ground and deposits her eggs. When they are at the larvae stage, they are called "seed ticks" with six legs. They attach themselves to a host, after receiving a blood meal, they drop to the ground and emerge as eight-legged nymphs. The three most common ticks are the Brown Dog Tick/American Dog Tick, the Lone Star tick and the Blacklegged Tick. The Blacklegged Tick is a known to carry the bacteria that can cause Lyme's Disease. New diseases are being discovered year after year, and because they're newly discovered, there isn't a lot of information about the diseases yet, nor whether these new diseases can affect pigs, so keep a lookout for information regarding ticks and tickborne diseases in YOUR specific region. Click here to read the CDC's tick geographic distribution page to see what ticks may be in your area.
Mating usually occurs while adult ticks are on the body of the host animal. The female then drops to the ground and deposits her eggs. When they are at the larvae stage, they are called "seed ticks" with six legs. They attach themselves to a host, after receiving a blood meal, they drop to the ground and emerge as eight-legged nymphs. The three most common ticks are the Brown Dog Tick/American Dog Tick, the Lone Star tick and the Blacklegged Tick. The Blacklegged Tick is a known to carry the bacteria that can cause Lyme's Disease. New diseases are being discovered year after year, and because they're newly discovered, there isn't a lot of information about the diseases yet, nor whether these new diseases can affect pigs, so keep a lookout for information regarding ticks and tickborne diseases in YOUR specific region. Click here to read the CDC's tick geographic distribution page to see what ticks may be in your area.
If you want to see the growth comparison of different ticks, click here for comparison pictures of each species. (You will likely start feeling ghost ticks crawling on you after looking at these pictures...I did! lol)
How ticks find their hosts. Ticks find their hosts by detecting animals´ breath and body odors, or by sensing body heat, moisture, and vibrations. Some species can even recognize a shadow. In addition, ticks pick a place to wait by identifying well-used paths. Then they wait for a host, resting on the tips of grasses and shrubs. Ticks can't fly or jump, but many tick species wait in a position known as "questing".
While questing, ticks hold onto leaves and grass by their third and fourth pair of legs. They hold the first pair of legs outstretched, waiting to climb on to the host. When a host brushes the spot where a tick is waiting, it quickly climbs aboard. For obese pigs whose bellies nearly drag the ground, this is a ticks opportunity to "climb aboard" easily. Some ticks will attach quickly and others will wander, looking for places like the ear, or other areas where the skin is thinner. For pigs, ticks typically choose an area that is softer such as behind the ears or under the legs. (the "armpit" area) However, ticks can attach anywhere. I have found them on the back, face, near the anus or shoulder area on my pig. The tick pictured below was in the "armpit" area of a pig.
How ticks find their hosts. Ticks find their hosts by detecting animals´ breath and body odors, or by sensing body heat, moisture, and vibrations. Some species can even recognize a shadow. In addition, ticks pick a place to wait by identifying well-used paths. Then they wait for a host, resting on the tips of grasses and shrubs. Ticks can't fly or jump, but many tick species wait in a position known as "questing".
While questing, ticks hold onto leaves and grass by their third and fourth pair of legs. They hold the first pair of legs outstretched, waiting to climb on to the host. When a host brushes the spot where a tick is waiting, it quickly climbs aboard. For obese pigs whose bellies nearly drag the ground, this is a ticks opportunity to "climb aboard" easily. Some ticks will attach quickly and others will wander, looking for places like the ear, or other areas where the skin is thinner. For pigs, ticks typically choose an area that is softer such as behind the ears or under the legs. (the "armpit" area) However, ticks can attach anywhere. I have found them on the back, face, near the anus or shoulder area on my pig. The tick pictured below was in the "armpit" area of a pig.
How ticks spread disease. Ticks transmit pathogens that cause disease through the process of feeding. It is likely unknown if all tickborne diseases can affect pigs, but using the theory that a pig closely resembles a human as far as internal structure/organs, my guess would be that pigs could potentially contract any of the tickborne diseases that affect humans. It is always better to be safe than sorry.
How do you control ticks in your yard? This can be especially difficult to do, even more so if you have any wooded areas close by and even more so if you have a lot of acreage to cover. The odds are, you will not be able to eliminate ALL ticks, but you can reduce the amount and not give them an environment to thrive in by following some simple steps.
Tick Habitats. These are the places where you may find ticks, their eggs or tick nests. Ticks need humid, shaded areas to survive and they will move rather than be "discovered".
Tick Nests. It is important to know what to look out for as well. The tick "nest" can harbor thousands of "seed ticks" that are almost microscopic in size and barely visible to the eye. If you should walk into a nest, you may see something crawling on your clothing if you look closely enough, but they are the size of a pen point. Should these ticks wander around long enough, they can find a spot or drop off and wait for another host. This is especially important for pigs since they do tend to lay around a lot. Should your pig walk through a nest and pick up hundreds of seed ticks, your pig may present with a bunch of bumps that look as if the pig has been bitten by a slew of insects, but more importantly, these seed ticks may also be in their bedding, so you must eliminate ALL of them or your pig will likely be re-infested over and over again.
- Depending on the tick species and its stage of life, preparing to feed can take from 10 minutes to 2 hours. When the tick finds a feeding spot, it grasps the skin and cuts into the surface.
- The tick then inserts its feeding tube. Many species also secrete a cement-like substance that keeps them firmly attached during the meal. The feeding tube can have barbs which help keep the tick in place.
- Ticks also can secrete small amounts of saliva with anesthetic properties so that the animal or person can't feel that the tick has attached itself. If the tick is in a sheltered spot, it can go unnoticed.
- A tick will suck the blood slowly for several days. If the host animal has a bloodborne infection, the tick will ingest the pathogens with the blood.
- Small amounts of saliva from the tick may also enter the skin of the host animal during the feeding process. If the tick contains a pathogen, the organism may be transmitted to the host animal in this way.
- After feeding, most ticks will drop off and prepare for the next life stage. At its next feeding, it can then transmit an acquired disease to the new host.
How do you control ticks in your yard? This can be especially difficult to do, even more so if you have any wooded areas close by and even more so if you have a lot of acreage to cover. The odds are, you will not be able to eliminate ALL ticks, but you can reduce the amount and not give them an environment to thrive in by following some simple steps.
- Keep your grass cut, mow often.
- Remove leaf litter.
- Place wood chips or gravel between lawns and wooded areas to keep ticks away from recreational areas, and keep your pigs area away from away from shrubs, bushes, and other vegetation.
- Trim back brush/bushes.
- Pick up wood and items laying around in the yard and stack them neatly in a dry area. (to help with rodent control-another source for carrying ticks)
- Discourage unwelcome animals (such as deer, raccoons, and stray dogs) from entering your yard by constructing secure fences. (which should already be in place for your pig)
- Remove old furniture, mattresses, or trash from the yard that may give ticks a place to hide.
- Use pet safe pesticides like DE.
Tick Habitats. These are the places where you may find ticks, their eggs or tick nests. Ticks need humid, shaded areas to survive and they will move rather than be "discovered".
- All cracks and crevices in an infested premise must be treated for good control. All tick life stages may be found behind baseboards, around window door moldings, or in furniture. Newly hatched larvae can climb, so all cracks and crevices need to be treated.
- Pigs do not become infested with brown dog ticks by direct contact with dogs, these ticks can be carried by animals other than dogs.
- Ticks feeding on a pig drop off and molt before they will resume host-seeking behavior and attach to another pet/animal.
- YOUR house should be thoroughly cleaned to eliminate as many ticks as possible also, same rule applies, ticks can drop off anywhere in your house, lay eggs or just wait for another appropriate host.
- Pig pens, pig houses, and structures occupied by any pets should be thoroughly treated to control ticks that have dropped off the pig or other animals, who may reside in harborage areas. Residual pet-safe insecticide sprays and dust should be applied carefully to all potential tick harborage areas. (Check with your vet before treating your pigs area to confirm that a product is safe for use in a pigs area) Vacuuming is very helpful inside the outdoor enclosures to pick up any that may be lingering around and just waiting for a host. Pig bedding and pig areas should be cleaned well. Ticks can detach and fall off in your pigs house, leaving one more area that your pig can get ticks from
Tick Nests. It is important to know what to look out for as well. The tick "nest" can harbor thousands of "seed ticks" that are almost microscopic in size and barely visible to the eye. If you should walk into a nest, you may see something crawling on your clothing if you look closely enough, but they are the size of a pen point. Should these ticks wander around long enough, they can find a spot or drop off and wait for another host. This is especially important for pigs since they do tend to lay around a lot. Should your pig walk through a nest and pick up hundreds of seed ticks, your pig may present with a bunch of bumps that look as if the pig has been bitten by a slew of insects, but more importantly, these seed ticks may also be in their bedding, so you must eliminate ALL of them or your pig will likely be re-infested over and over again.
A female tick can lay 3000-4000 eggs at a time after a blood meal. This is what you may see in the yard or on a surface. These are tick eggs or nests and they will hatch and this vicious cycle repeats over and over and over again. Another great resource is the tick encounter resource center which has a FAQ section that can help you determine what parts of your yard may need work to lessen the amount of ticks living there.
Seed tick infestation on a pig.
A pig presented with bumps under the front two legs, normal washing began along with hydrocortisone cream. After a day, it was determined that seed ticks were the cause as shown on the last picture on a white cloth. Furthermore, the nest was discovered nearby and this particular pig was laying in that area day after day, so until it was identified and destroyed, each tick had to be removed night after night. Just one example of how these tiny ticks might present on a pig.
Preventing ticks on your pig.
Tick bites on pigs may be hard to detect. Signs of tickborne disease may not appear for 7-21 days or longer after a tick bite, so watch your pig closely for changes in behavior or appetite if you suspect that your pig has been bitten by a tick. I do a routine tick check every single day for my pig. Its a good habit to add to your routine since having a cooperative pig can help detect ticks that may have not even attached themselves yet. If you cannot prevent them altogether, the next best thing is to have the ability to remove them as soon as possible.
Seed tick infestation on a pig.
A pig presented with bumps under the front two legs, normal washing began along with hydrocortisone cream. After a day, it was determined that seed ticks were the cause as shown on the last picture on a white cloth. Furthermore, the nest was discovered nearby and this particular pig was laying in that area day after day, so until it was identified and destroyed, each tick had to be removed night after night. Just one example of how these tiny ticks might present on a pig.
Preventing ticks on your pig.
Tick bites on pigs may be hard to detect. Signs of tickborne disease may not appear for 7-21 days or longer after a tick bite, so watch your pig closely for changes in behavior or appetite if you suspect that your pig has been bitten by a tick. I do a routine tick check every single day for my pig. Its a good habit to add to your routine since having a cooperative pig can help detect ticks that may have not even attached themselves yet. If you cannot prevent them altogether, the next best thing is to have the ability to remove them as soon as possible.
- Check your pigs for ticks daily, especially after they spend time outdoors.
- If you find a tick on your pig, remove it right away.
- Ask your veterinarian to conduct a tick check at each exam.
- Talk to your veterinarian about tickborne diseases in your area.
- Reduce tick habitat in your yard. (listed above)
- Talk with your veterinarian about using tick preventives for your pig. My vet recommends frontline or advantage plus for dogs to use on my pig. He stated that you must be sure to get the correct dose based on the weight class the medication was designed for, such as small dogs 3-15 pounds, medium 16-50 pounds, etc. (that is NOT the correct weight classes, just an example)
Tick removal from pigs
OR...
You can purchase your very own tick specific removal tool!
Tick Ease removal tweezers takes the guess work out of it as does the Tick Twister. These products help to ensure you are grabbing the tick in the right place by creating an opening to fit any size tick allowing you to gently remove it from your pig.
- Use fine-tipped tweezers to grasp the tick as close to the skin’s surface as possible. You may or may not be met with resistance from your pig. Most pigs will flop right over for a good forking or belly rub. So try this is your pig is especially jumping or uncooperative.
- Pull upward with steady, even pressure. Don’t twist or jerk the tick; this can cause the mouth-parts to break off and remain in the skin. If this happens, remove the mouth-parts with tweezers. If you are unable to remove the mouth easily with clean tweezers, leave it alone and let the skin heal.
- After removing the tick, thoroughly clean the bite area and your hands with rubbing alcohol, an iodine scrub, or soap and water.
- Dispose of a live tick by submersing it in alcohol, placing it in a sealed bag/container, wrapping it tightly in tape, or flushing it down the toilet. Never crush a tick with your fingers.
OR...
You can purchase your very own tick specific removal tool!
Tick Ease removal tweezers takes the guess work out of it as does the Tick Twister. These products help to ensure you are grabbing the tick in the right place by creating an opening to fit any size tick allowing you to gently remove it from your pig.
**Avoid "painting" a tick with nail polish or Vaseline, using a heat source such as a match freshly lit and blown out for tick removal. The goal is to remove it quickly, not wait for it to detach. Some of the "home/all natural solutions" are based on theories using essential oils and such, these can be tried as a preventative, but we do not recommend using these methods for tick removal. If a rash or fever develops within several weeks of a tick bite/being removed, contact your veterinarian.
Are there any "homemade" remedies available to control the tick population? Of course there are. However, it is obviously unknown if these DIY treatments are effective. If whomever created the recipe for tick destruction has never seen a tick on their animal, it may be very effective, but that is someone claiming this, not scientifically proven. There are known pesticides that are effective and even animal friendly. So choose carefully. Read up on whatever you're putting in a bottle and spraying around your pigs bedding area or actually on your pig. I wouldn't trust some random internet person that I do not personally know. But, there are some relatively harmless homemade solutions that may work for you...as usual, check with your vet before treating ANYTHING yourself. Read up on appropriate treatments by credible organizations before picking what you will use. This is a great place to start. http://tickwarriors.com
Things to keep in mind when trying the ticks remedies
Natural repellents:
Things to keep in mind when trying the ticks remedies
- Do not apply citrus or vinegar based remedies on open or wounded skin; in such cases go for oils.
- Test the remedy on a small patch of skin before applying it completely on the tick bite to check for allergies.
- Never try to pour or apply hot oils or portion to increase effectiveness; it will only worsen the tick bite.
- Once the tick dies, try to pull it off the skin completely with a single good pull without splitting it apart.
- When using home remedies either to get rid of ticks on humans or on pets, go from lower concentration to higher, to prevent allergies and side reactions.
- When spraying home remedies to get rid of ticks in house, make sure the place is ventilated and receives ample light.
Natural repellents:
- Apply food-grade Diatomaceous Earth for long-lasting protection. Made up of tiny fossilized aquatic organisms, DE kills by scoring an insect’s outer layer as it crawls over the fine powder. Contains NO toxic poisons!
- Aromatherapy/Essential Oils: Aromatherapy oils, like basil, lemon, cinnamon, cedar, lavender, and pennyroyal are the natural repellent for ticks. For removing ticks, prepare a mixture of any three oils. Mix one drop each of the three oils chosen and pure almond oil. Stir it well, and soak a cloth in it. Wrap this cloth on your pet. Test a small area to be sure there is no reaction before applying widespread on your pig.
- Citrus: Citrus is abundantly found in oranges and lemon. All you need to do is to prepare natural repellent oil from these citrus fruits. Take out peels of lemon or orange and boil them. Let it cool down naturally. Apply it on the affected area of pets.
- Apple cider vinegar: ACV can be a beneficial remedy for removing ticks. You just have to prepare a spray with the help of apple cider vinegar. Pour 8 ounce of apple cider vinegar in a bowl. Add 4 ounce of warm water in it. Stir it well adding half teaspoon each of salt and baking soda. Fill the solution in a spray bottle and shake it well before use. You can also use apple cider vinegar with lavender oil for removing ticks. Mix 1/4 cup of apple cider vinegar in one cup of water. Add 15 drops of lavender oil in it. Mix it well and apply it on your pigs hair. It can also be used with neem oil. Take 500 ml water and add 4 tablespoons of apple cider vinegar to it. Stir the mixture well adding two tablespoons of neem oil. Apply this solution on pigs to kill ticks. You can also spray this mixture on curtains, walls, and carpets.
- Witch hazel: Witch hazel is a natural tick repellent. Instead of using alcohol on pet, use witch hazel. Just mix witch hazel and lemon eucalyptus oil in 10:1 ratio, stir the solution well and fill it in a spray bottle. Spray it on your pet to kill ticks. You can also prepare a spray by pouring 8 ounce of distilled water in a bottle. Add half teaspoon of vegetable glycerin and 30-40 drops of essential oil in it. Add enough witch hazel to fill the bottle. Shake it well and use to kill ticks and fleas or bugs, present in bed, curtains, mattress, etc.
- Vegetable oils: Vegetable oils are rich in sulphur, which acts as a natural repellent for ticks. You have to mix two teaspoons of vegetable oil with 10 drops of peppermint essential oil. Add one teaspoon of dish washing liquid. Stir the mixture well. Apply it on a pet’s body. Do not apply near eyes, ears, or mouth. For best results, practise this method once a week. Be sure to add sunscreen after application since vegetable oil isn accelerant for the sun and can easily cause sunburn.
- Baking soda: Baking soda is a natural remedy for removing ticks from pet’s body. To use baking soda against ticks, you need to mix half teaspoon each of baking soda and salt. Add this dry mixture to four ounces of apple cider vinegar. Pour this mixture in a spray bottle, filled with 4 ounce of warm water. Spray it on pets.
- Eucalyptus oil: Eucalyptus oil is very effective against ticks. To prepare eucalyptus spray, you have to boil 15-20 leaves of eucalyptus in approximately 1 litre water. Let it boil for 10 minutes. After boiling, let it cool down at room temperature. Strain the solution in a spray bottle. Use the solution to kill ticks. You can also make spray by using eucalyptus oil. You are required to fill a spray bottle with 4 ounces of distilled water. Add 10 drops of eucalyptus oil in it. Shake it well before use.
- Liquid dish detergent: Liquid dish detergent is beneficial in killing ticks. All you have to do is to pour some liquid dish detergent in a bowl. With the help of a cotton ball, apply it on pet’s body, covering the infected area.
- Mint: Apart from giving cooling sensation, mint is also very effective remedy in getting rid of ticks on humans. Blend two lemons with 10 tablespoon of apple cider vinegar and around 10 mint leaves in warm water and let the mix settle. Apply the extract on the tick to extract it.
Pig approved commercial/processed treatments: Several products contain a number of repellents and insecticides, and are registered for direct application to pigs. These include: Inca Ban Fly insecticidal spray for animals (250mL and 500mL quantities); Musca Ban insecticidal spray (125mL, 500 mL and 5L); Value Plus fly spray in the same quantities; Flygon insecticidal and repellent spray in the same quantities and Ecovet Insect Repellent (500mL).
Pour–on products such as Taktic Topline®, which are registered for use in pigs for the control of mange may also provide some protection from ticks, as noted above in relation to biting fly control. Again, as mentioned above, Frontline and/or Advantage plus for dogs can also be used to prevent ticks in pigs. You MUST pay careful attention to the weight limits and purchase the correct weight class for your pig. UltraCruz Equine Natural Fly and Tick Spray is a product that can be purchased that is often used for horses. Bronco E Equine Fly Spray also repels ticks and is safe to use for horses, people and pigs. Permethrin 10% is deemed safe for use in pigs. Commercial farms use products like Prolate/Lintox-HD on pigs without issues. Tick Warriors All Natural Yard Spray is an excellent product.
*I am quite sure there are many more DIY methods that others may use or other products that have been effective at controlling ticks in their area, we encourage you to leave a comment on the blog or on our social media pages with your recipe, but I also must post a warning to those who may simply use what they see as credible. Please do NOT use anything in your pigs area or on your pig without first making sure it is safe to use!!
Anecdotal reports suggest that use of equipment such as portable mist blowers to apply these products to the pigs at for nightly intervals works well.
**It is important to use the products according to label directions and keep them well away from pig feed and water sources to avoid chemical contamination and risk of chemical residue. With any of these products, I would spray the solution on a rubber brush and brush on, not spray directly on your pig since it would be very easy to accidentally spray near or in the eyes/mouth.
Hopefully all pigs and their human families can be as tick free as possible this summer season! For more tips/information regarding summer seasonal concerns, click here to read more!
Pour–on products such as Taktic Topline®, which are registered for use in pigs for the control of mange may also provide some protection from ticks, as noted above in relation to biting fly control. Again, as mentioned above, Frontline and/or Advantage plus for dogs can also be used to prevent ticks in pigs. You MUST pay careful attention to the weight limits and purchase the correct weight class for your pig. UltraCruz Equine Natural Fly and Tick Spray is a product that can be purchased that is often used for horses. Bronco E Equine Fly Spray also repels ticks and is safe to use for horses, people and pigs. Permethrin 10% is deemed safe for use in pigs. Commercial farms use products like Prolate/Lintox-HD on pigs without issues. Tick Warriors All Natural Yard Spray is an excellent product.
*I am quite sure there are many more DIY methods that others may use or other products that have been effective at controlling ticks in their area, we encourage you to leave a comment on the blog or on our social media pages with your recipe, but I also must post a warning to those who may simply use what they see as credible. Please do NOT use anything in your pigs area or on your pig without first making sure it is safe to use!!
Anecdotal reports suggest that use of equipment such as portable mist blowers to apply these products to the pigs at for nightly intervals works well.
**It is important to use the products according to label directions and keep them well away from pig feed and water sources to avoid chemical contamination and risk of chemical residue. With any of these products, I would spray the solution on a rubber brush and brush on, not spray directly on your pig since it would be very easy to accidentally spray near or in the eyes/mouth.
Hopefully all pigs and their human families can be as tick free as possible this summer season! For more tips/information regarding summer seasonal concerns, click here to read more!