Mini Pig Hoof Care
These are NOT well groomedObviously overgrown and in need of a trim. The length of the hooves impact the way a pig has to walk in order to compensate for the overgrowth. This picture belongs to Langley Animal Hospital and they are showing the difference between appropriate and inappropriate length of hooves.
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Forking your pigThe "miracle worker" for pigs, forking your pig usually puts your pig in a trance-like state allowing you time to work on the hooves. Many people swear by products of their choosing, but I have found combined with starting early on, forking is the one method that has worked practically every time I work with any pig.
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All pigs need hoof careNo matter the size of your pig, desensitizing them to their hooves being touched is key to being able to maintain the hooves at home. Another option is to add concrete in an area your pig must walk over daily to help wear them down naturally. Putting it in front of a doorway they use daily is a great place for this concrete pad.
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Products we recommend for hoof trimming at home:
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Photo: Pig Pals Sanctuary
Most pigs will require a hoof trim at some point. Some pigs can go their whole lives without ever needing a hoof trim, but this isn't usually the case. Some may only need their hooves trimmed once a year while others need more frequent trimming. A pig with strong ankles who spends time walking on rough surfaces like asphalt and gravel may never need a hoof trim or hoof trims less frequently. However, if your piggy has weak ankles, stays mostly indoors or outdoors on soft grassy lawns, then your mini pig will most likely need at least yearly or semi-yearly hoof trims. FYI- the pigs kwik doe NOT grow out like other animals, so you can cut the nail back to where you need it without having the worry that you will cut the kwik. There are examples below of good versus bad hoof care as well as the tools you will need to accomplish this. If your pig has dark pigmented hooves or hooves that are difficult to visualize the kwik, use a flashlight and mark the kwik line so you're not worrying yourself and can be accurate in your trimming. Should you accidentally cut past this mark and you do see blood, have kwik stop on hand to stop the bleeding, but be aware this burns when you cut too far, so you may have some protest from your pig once you try to cut another hoof.
Many pot-bellied pigs have weak pasterns or ankles. As they get older and their hooves grow longer, they start to walk "back" on their heel. As this starts to happen, the tips of the hooves are not worn down as they should be, so they start to grow excessively long. As the hoof grows long, it pushes the foot even farther back. It is a vicious cycle of consequence, but ultimately, your pigs gait and balance can be forever changed because of poor hoof care. Excessive overgrowth, in addition to other conditions like obesity, can contribute to crippling arthritis in mini pigs.
When piglets are young, their whole bodies grow. Few piglets need hoof trims, but, we recommend you desensitize the hoof so your pig is more agreeable when hoof trims are needed. When they reach maturity, the hooves continue to grow, but the pig does not. This is the time when foot or hoof problems can start to appear, especially in overweight piggies. Hoof problems can occur at any age, especially if little or no hoof care is ever done. Take care of the hooves while they're young to avoid issues when they're older. Some pigs will go to a new home once they're grown, and some of these pigs can be "difficult" to manage when it comes to trimming the hooves, remember, sedation should be used as a very last resort. Some pigs are anesthetized and hooves trimmed, family goes to check on them hours later and the pig has passed away. Pigs do not all do well with sedation, plus, they forgive quickly, so if you can use another method to quickly trim the hooves, that is what we advise you to do. (Flip the pig *see video example below, forking, belly rub, peanut butter on a cookie sheet, etc) and then reward with a small treat. (FYI...it will be loud)
Many pot-bellied pigs have weak pasterns or ankles. As they get older and their hooves grow longer, they start to walk "back" on their heel. As this starts to happen, the tips of the hooves are not worn down as they should be, so they start to grow excessively long. As the hoof grows long, it pushes the foot even farther back. It is a vicious cycle of consequence, but ultimately, your pigs gait and balance can be forever changed because of poor hoof care. Excessive overgrowth, in addition to other conditions like obesity, can contribute to crippling arthritis in mini pigs.
When piglets are young, their whole bodies grow. Few piglets need hoof trims, but, we recommend you desensitize the hoof so your pig is more agreeable when hoof trims are needed. When they reach maturity, the hooves continue to grow, but the pig does not. This is the time when foot or hoof problems can start to appear, especially in overweight piggies. Hoof problems can occur at any age, especially if little or no hoof care is ever done. Take care of the hooves while they're young to avoid issues when they're older. Some pigs will go to a new home once they're grown, and some of these pigs can be "difficult" to manage when it comes to trimming the hooves, remember, sedation should be used as a very last resort. Some pigs are anesthetized and hooves trimmed, family goes to check on them hours later and the pig has passed away. Pigs do not all do well with sedation, plus, they forgive quickly, so if you can use another method to quickly trim the hooves, that is what we advise you to do. (Flip the pig *see video example below, forking, belly rub, peanut butter on a cookie sheet, etc) and then reward with a small treat. (FYI...it will be loud)
Photo credit: Jill Murphy
One thing people don't consider is ear protection when doing hoof trims. This is BRILLIANT! Here is Jills' advice when she posted this picture.
"Operation: Fergus Hoof Trim is complete..... This was the first time we did the "cradle the pig" technique.... I gotta say it went great... He screamed until we got him on his back and then that was it. I stopped a few times to "fork" him and he completely relaxed.... no meds, etc had to be used.... it took less than 10 minutes with a dremmel and now he's back to being a happy guy...I think next time we will try to get his head up just a bit more, but not too bad for a couple of rookies.
****I will put a disclaimer.... he was not stressed at all... had he shown the slightest bit of panic or freaking out we would not have proceeded.... but once on his back he was quiet and calm.... if he struggled or put up a huge fit we would have been done before we started... it really depends on how each individual pig reacts :)****"
Some pigs will squeal very loudly the entire time in protest, others will squeal and then stop, regardless, their squeals are loud and ear piercing, so having ear protection on hand is a GREAT idea. During my pigs first hoof trim, I actually took cookies to my neighbors and also warned them what i would be doing. (Mainly so they wouldn't get worried that something was wrong. lol) Nonetheless, the whole dramatic production only took about 10 minutes.
"Operation: Fergus Hoof Trim is complete..... This was the first time we did the "cradle the pig" technique.... I gotta say it went great... He screamed until we got him on his back and then that was it. I stopped a few times to "fork" him and he completely relaxed.... no meds, etc had to be used.... it took less than 10 minutes with a dremmel and now he's back to being a happy guy...I think next time we will try to get his head up just a bit more, but not too bad for a couple of rookies.
****I will put a disclaimer.... he was not stressed at all... had he shown the slightest bit of panic or freaking out we would not have proceeded.... but once on his back he was quiet and calm.... if he struggled or put up a huge fit we would have been done before we started... it really depends on how each individual pig reacts :)****"
Some pigs will squeal very loudly the entire time in protest, others will squeal and then stop, regardless, their squeals are loud and ear piercing, so having ear protection on hand is a GREAT idea. During my pigs first hoof trim, I actually took cookies to my neighbors and also warned them what i would be doing. (Mainly so they wouldn't get worried that something was wrong. lol) Nonetheless, the whole dramatic production only took about 10 minutes.
Flip The Pig For Hoof Trims
This is Dr. Kristie demonstrating how to safely flip a pig during a mini symposium in North Carolina. Note that she has an assistant to help. Pigs do not like to be on their butts or back, however, in lieu of using sedation, this method effectively puts a mini pig into a position for a hoof trim without using any sedations/anesthetics. They do scream (sometimes, well most of the time), but this does NOT hurt them at all. Your pig will likely make a lot of noise, your pig will likely try to get out of the position, but once your pig is allowed to get up and move around, you will quickly see your pig is not hurt.
The arrows in this picture are in the areas where there is excess growth. Photo: Zinpro.com
Hoof care/Hoof trimming
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Hoof Trimming
By Nicole Cox & Brittany Sawyer This page is a combination of experience and various documents that we have compiled to create a great hoof care guide. Whether or not you are a new piggy parent or someone with experience, hoof care is one of the most important pieces of having a pet pig. This can effect your pig for the rest of their life! Start early and do it often. That is our recommendation! Touch your pigs hooves often, check out their nails and pads daily. Looks for cracks or splits and/or overgrowth as often as your pig will let you. Once you get into this routine, use a nail file to gently scratch the surface of your pig's hoof, when that is done without any objection, use cuticle cutters to trim the very tip of the hoof. This will give you a sense of satisfaction as well as confidence when you can identify problems early on with your pigs hooves. What you are actually doing is desensitizing your pig to their hooves being worked on. Gradually working your way up to hoof trims, using snippers or hoof trimmers, is what we have found to be the best way to go. Do NOT try and trim hooves if you haven't looked at what's involved with it. Your pig will likely not stay still if you've never touched the hoof before and now you're trying to trim the nail. Most pigs won't need a hoof trim until they're around a year old, but, if you start working on their hooves when they're much younger, there are typically less objections and hassle rather than when they're much older, bigger and harder to control. The easiest way to try and limit the need for frequent hoof trims is to put something like pavers right in front of the door where your pig goes in and out. This allows them to walk on the rough surface everyday and can help wear the hooves down naturally. Overgrowth at the toe will displace the weight-bearing axis further on the heel resulting in more overgrowth and associated pathological changes (erosion; ulcers; cracks and fissures. In addition greater stress is placed on the flexor tendons resulting in over extension of the digit/foot. If the overgrowth is mainly unilateral (only affecting one claw in a foot), the overgrown claw carries progressively more of the total weight-bearing load of that leg thus the process becomes a viscious cycle. ~Dr. Van Amstel If you start as early as possible, this is much easier to accomplish, but it can be done with an older pig as well. Your pig needs to trust you and needs to know that placing its hoof in your hand will not harm them which is why I suggest working your way up to trimming the hooves by first touching them or filing them. Some pigs are OK with a belly rub and the normal routine, while other pigs need to be sedated for a hoof trim. It's up to you what route you choose to go, but remember, anytime you sedate your pig, there is a risk. Some pigs will flop over for a belly rub or "forking", while others need some incentive like treats to stay in one place. I have found spreading peanut butter on a cookie sheet keeps them occupied for a while. A pig usually won't leave a cookie sheet until all the peanut butter is gone, and thankfully, pigs don't usually leave food unfinished and the scent lingers much longer than the actual peanut butter, so your pig will likely stand there and continue to lick the empty cookie sheet while you finish the hooves. (This is just one of the many suggestions to keep your pig still) First, clean piggies feet thoroughly. If there's infection or inflammation you'll probably smell an unpleasant odor as you clean the injured area. If there's no odor or sign of infection, then a simple hoof trim should solve the problem. Commonly asked questions.... · When is the best time to do their hooves - NIGHT TIME! Get them while they are relaxed! · Tools - please see link below. · How far do you file down - You want to get close to the quick without actually hitting it. View the photos on good hooves for some excellent examples! · How often - I recommend one hoof a week that is 4 a month! Always stay on top of them! · Top of hoof? - You want to keep the angles right (see images for example) · Tips for black hooves - FLASH LIGHT! Keeping them groomed will help as well. · Styptic powder (corn starch) - Will stop the bleeding if you hit the quick. Or Kwik stop (can be purchased at any pet supply store.) · Benadryl, beer, or sedation? (PLEASE TALK TO YOUR VET!) **This is a VERY debated topic.... some will agree with these and some will not. I AM NOT recommending anything and again you need to SPEAK TO YOUR VET about what options they recommend for YOUR pig. Do not give your pig medications or alcohol on your own. This can lead to a life threatening situation. Rescue remedy is something I see often suggested as a calming agent for pigs as well and haven't heard of any ill effects after using it. · Tricks to help - Start young, touch their feet often, make it a positive experience. Desensitize the feet by touching them often. · Vitamins/minerals for hooves - Using hooflex or horseshoer's secret on hooves with issues can help with cracks. See nutritional deficiencies as well. Biotin and Zinc deficiencies have been linked to poor skin and nails in general. · Soak in water - Yes this can help soften the nail and or the hoof pad and make trimming easier. · Age - Start young! Some people have reported that the hooves harden with age and staying on top of it while they are young will always keep you ahead! You can start by using cuticle cutters in piglets to help desensitize them regarding hoof trims. · Things that help keep them short - Cement, pavers, walking, regular activity. · Large pigs - It is even more important when you have a bigger pig to stay on top of their hoof care needs. · Dew claws - Also need to be trimmed and groomed · Keeping them still - Forking, sedation via vet, flip the pig method. Some people start working with their pigs when they're super young and are able to do maintenance type things to their pigs without a lot of issues or resistance from their pigs. Having two people is a big help, but not always necessary. Some pigs will let you trim the hooves without any issues, some will require sedation. Others fall in between and one person gives a belly rub or "forks" or flips the pig while the other trims the hooves, some require nothing but the view of the hoof trimmers to plop right over on their side. I am thankful that my pig is like the latter. She LOVES hoof trims. Suggested Tools: Hoof trimmers: http://www.amazon.com/Zenport-Multipurpose-Trimming Dremel: http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-8-Volt-Two-Speed Styptic powder to stop bleeding: http://www.amazon.com/Cardinal-quick+stop+powder Hoof Flex conditioner for hooves http://www.amazon.com/Hooflex-Therapeutic-Conditioner (This can also be bought at most Tractor supply stores) Rain Maker Hoof Moisturizer www.tractorsupply.com//farnam-rain-maker-hoof-moisturizer-conditioner Nippers http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-14D-14-Inch-Nipper-Plastic Hoof Pick (to clean under the hoof) http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/hoof-pick Cuticle cutters (to easily trim the dewclaws) http://www.amazon.com/Nippers-Stainless-Cutter-Clipper 
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Videos Tutorials
http://www.howcast.com/-how-to-trim-your-potbellied-pigs-hooves-pet-pigs (By Susan at Ross Mill Farms) Hoof Trim 101
Part I Hoof Trim 101
Part II Hoof Trim 101
Part III Step 1: Trim the Toes-Shape the hoof
First, clean piggies feet thoroughly. If there's infection or inflammation you'll probably smell an unpleasant odor as you clean the injured area. If there's no odor or sign of infection, then a simple hoof trim should be all you need to do. If there are other issues, they may need to be addressed in a different way and you should seek vet care. Use nippers to reduce toe length. Do this in several increments, inspecting the end of the toe after each cut to determine if another cut can be done safely. The ideal toe length is about 50 mm. With some pigs, there may be one overgrown toe on the foot, and one very short (stunted) toe. In these cases, you may not be able to reduce the long toe to match the length of the short toe. Do the best you can. Step 2: Straighten the Wall Toe overgrowth often curves or buckles the dorsal wall, making it concave. Use the angle grinder to straighten the wall by removing excess wall horn below the area where buckling occurs. The wall should be straight from the coronary band to the bearing surface. Step 3: Balance the Sole and Heel Use the grinder to reduce the sole depth. The objective is to have a flat and level sole area across both claws for functional weight bearing of the foot. It is common for the outside (lateral) claw to be more overgrown than the inside (medial) claw, so the lateral claw will need more sole horn removed. The medial claw often only needs flattening, with minimal sole horn removal. If the heel is overgrown, remove soft tissue with the grinder or hoof knife. The outside heel is often more overgrown than the inside heel, but with care these can be made even (except in cases where the inside heel is small and underdeveloped). The heel should not be trimmed all the way flat to match the sole, as it acts as a ‘first impact’ shock absorber when the sow walks. Step 4: Trim Dew Claws Overgrown dew claws are prone to injury and can interfere with normal locomotion of the pig. An ideal dew claw horn should be approximately 20 mm long. Use the nippers to reduce dew claw length. Do this in increments until a satisfactory length is obtained. Use the angle grinder to round off the end of dew claws. Use a sharp hoof knife to remove loose and undermined horn to the point where reattachment of the horn with the underlying tissues becomes evident. This procedure should be done with care as to avoid damage resulting in hemorrhage and damage to the underlying corium. Caution: Do not draw blood from the claw when trimming. If you draw blood, you have trimmed too aggressively and have penetrated the corium. It is better to leave a little extra horn than to remove too much. Have Kwik stop on hand for accidental cuts that cause bleeding. Source: http://www.zinpro.com/lameness/swine/claw-trimming OTC products to keep your pig calm?
Things that's make a pig sleepy, like Melatonin and Benadryl do nothing to help with anxiety, and they don't slow down the pigs reaction to the hoof trim. The pig will go from 0 to 60 in a half second and you, or the pig can really get hurt. In addition, overdosing on Benadryl or Melatonin will have an opposite reaction and can cause hyperactivity in the pig. Sedatives will help with anxiety and have anti-pain, amnesiac, and anti-movement properties. In most cases, the pig does not have to be fully anesthetized and many sedatives can be reversed versus the medications mentioned above that do not have a reversal agent. Alcohol is NOT recommended as a way to calm a pig in order to do routine maintenance to your pig. Pigs can be mean drunks and although pigs digestive system is much like our own, because a lot of pigs have excessive adipose tissue, the metabolism and excretion of alcohol may not be the same as it is in a human, therefore not recommended for use in a pig. There is no data to support proper dosing and alcohol is a known liver toxin. It can be particularly dangerous if your pig has an underlying liver issue. Please talk to your vet about sedating your pig with reversible drugs to get the feet done. ~Cathy Zolicani, DVM Rescue remedy is a spray that has been proven to help calm an uneasy pig. It is listed on our recommended pig product page if you're interested in reading more about it or finding out where you can buy this product from. Click here to go to our recommended product page. To read more about it, click here. Overgrowth of claws which may make rising difficult and will alter the gait of the pig which can put additional strain on joints. Cracks and defects in the claw allowing fecal contamination resulting in sepsis, change in gait, difficulty walking and ultimately bush foot. Please scroll down to the section that discusses potential hoof problems and how to address them or discuss with your vet. Hoof care is VERY important to your pigs overall well-being. Please don't neglect their feet. |
This is her pig Strawberry after this particular encounter with a hoof trim. Slightly battered, you can see that Strawberry didn't really want a spa day that day.
A GREAT blog: Diary of a real-life veterinarian and her experience with a hoof trim. http://kmdvm.blogspot.com/2012/06/pigs-feet-on-agenda
Hooves being trimmed with dremel. Photo: LBAH.com
| X-Ray GIF showing proper gait in a pig. Property of Professor John Hutchinson, PhD |
Below is a video taken during a mini pig seminar in Virginia. Dr. Kristie Mozzachio uses her pig sling to trim the hooves of a rescue pig.
Bee Haven Acres says: I have found the perfect tool for trimming pig hooves (a 10-inch equine hoof nipper). We agree, having a larger sized nipper tool in addition to the shears is best so that you can be prepared with the tools necessary to get the job done.
Photo credit: Dawn Camp
Occasionally you may see a genetic defect and extra "toe". This is called polydactly and is simply one more nail you need to trim. Some choose to have this extra appendage removed, but typically it doesn't affect their balance or gait and can be left alone.
Ideally, you will be able to work with your pig and avoid having to call anyone to trim the hooves, but we understand that is not always achievable. Pictured below is Dr. Kristie Mozzachio's pig sling she uses when trimming the hooves of pigs that may not be the most cooperative. Not all vets have this equipment, and it is rather expensive to buy, but this is a safe way to trim the hooves. Another method of gaining control is to flip the pig. Pigs do not like being restrained and also do not like having their feet of the ground. While your pig may squeal and sound like he or she is being hurt, your pig is not being hurt, this is their natural reaction. Your pig may squeal the entire time he/she is flipped in your lap, but as soon s your pig is let down, the squealing stops. You will need to hold onto the pig, do NOT put your face near the mouth so you don't accidentally get bit, but this method is used and proven to be very effective when hooves are needing to be trimmed.
Photo: Dr. Kristie Mozzachio's pig sling
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Another photo of Dr. Kristie's, this is a picture of the "flip the pig" method.
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Common causes for hoof issues.
Please remember to watch your pigs gait (the way your pig walks) for changes. Limping is a sign of an injury. Injuries can be acute or chronic (meaning an acute injury-just happened, is ongoing, or is likely to be a problem for long periods of time, if not for life which is a chronic condition). The problems listed in this example are correctable problems if treated immediately and with proper care.
You are the one person who will notice subtle changes. Your pig may not act different, likely won't have a fever (unless theres an underlying infection), will probably eat and drink, pee and poop like normal. But, you may notice the reluctance to get up or shifting the weight differently. Those are the signs you need to be on the lookout for.
Mini Pig Cracked or Split Hoof
How do you treat cracked or split hooves?
Cracked or split hoof?
There are times when a vet will need to determine the plan of treatment for your pigs' hooves. Often times, when caught early, you can most definitely try to correct the problem yourself. We created a step by step guide of things you can do at home to try and manage the situation before it gets too bad and a vets intervention is needed.
Clean it first if he/she will let you, with soap and water. Assess the crack and see if your vet needs to intervene. Take some pictures and send to your vet if necessary. Always check with your vet before doing anything invasive. Put some orajel (for teething babies) into wound. Slather it in there. Let sit for 120 seconds. If he/she will let you, soak foot in diluted bleach water twice a day until it fills in. It will take a few weeks to totally fill in. (Dilute bleach = 1 tsp bleach in 1 gallon of water.) If she won't stand in water, soak wash rag in it and wrap foot. The crack will need to be debrided (cleaned out good) Hoof flex can be used on top to help condition the area. Some use nail filler such as Equilox, which is part of an adhesive crack repair system, BUT, this needs to be applied once the area is cleansed thoroughly and there are NO signs or symptoms of any visible debris left. The area has to have the change to start healing BEFORE you put a filler on top of it otherwise if there is any leftover debris inside, you will be trapping it in there potentially causing bigger issues. Others use super glue to help with the repair. Keratex is another alternative to repair a cracked hoof which is a hoof putty that can be used to fill in the cracks. Adhere by Vettec is another option and I will include a link at the bottom of this to their site and a farriers before and after pictures along with a video demonstration (This video was not done on a pig). Biotin also comes in a cream and can be applied directly to the affected area of the hoof. Horseshoer's secret is a good supplement for hoof and skin, made for horses, but works well in pigs too. The recommended dose is 1 tsp daily for a week, then 1 tsp once a week. Oil/moisturize the hoof with coconut oil, other hoof conditioning oils or something like hoof flex. This will help prevent cracking. Always consult with your vet to be sure they are in agreement with your plans or ask if they can make suggestions for what you can do. Vitamin deficiency or trauma to the hooves can also lead to split or cracked hooves.
If there are any areas of the nail that are need to be trimmed off, do so when its numb from the oragel as this provides temporary pain relief.
Another newer treatment is Manuka Honey from which can be purchased from Amazon. Honey has an amazing antimicrobial properties and can even help when antibiotics are no longer working. It also has the same actions as peroxide. It will keep the tissue soft and supple too. It has to be medical grade honey, not something from the grocery store, make sure it is from New Zealand. There is a newer one that they are discovering helps with gram negative bacteria. Ill update once I have all the information about that.
Hoof Heal is a product you can buy at your local tractor supply stores that stimulates hoof growth and can also be very useful in situations like this. It also crates a drawing action for any abscesses. http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/cut-heal-hoof-heal-16-oz
There are many crack fillers on the market. Another great one is called SBS crack filler kit.
You can read more about and also order this system by clicking here.
You can use an antiseptic cleaner as well. Remedy Recovery is an antiseptic spray typically used for dogs, but safe for animals.
http://cardinalpet.com/remedyrecovery/products/
Some vets may suggest letting a crack grow out. however, if your pig is amenable to being handeld, consider having a farrier get involved and try to epoxy the hoof crack, or support it with hoof epoxy and a wire. This will take some skill, so getting someone involved who is experienced in this should be considered.
Read more: http://www.justanswer.com/large-animal-vet/8ftei-pot-belly-pig-cracked-hoof-up-vet.
Regarding the treatment mentioned above: http://www.equilox.com
http://www.keratex.net/hoof_putty.htm
http://www.vettec.com/content/farrier-uses-vettecs-adhere-repair-hoofwall
There are times when a vet will need to determine the plan of treatment for your pigs' hooves. Often times, when caught early, you can most definitely try to correct the problem yourself. We created a step by step guide of things you can do at home to try and manage the situation before it gets too bad and a vets intervention is needed.
Clean it first if he/she will let you, with soap and water. Assess the crack and see if your vet needs to intervene. Take some pictures and send to your vet if necessary. Always check with your vet before doing anything invasive. Put some orajel (for teething babies) into wound. Slather it in there. Let sit for 120 seconds. If he/she will let you, soak foot in diluted bleach water twice a day until it fills in. It will take a few weeks to totally fill in. (Dilute bleach = 1 tsp bleach in 1 gallon of water.) If she won't stand in water, soak wash rag in it and wrap foot. The crack will need to be debrided (cleaned out good) Hoof flex can be used on top to help condition the area. Some use nail filler such as Equilox, which is part of an adhesive crack repair system, BUT, this needs to be applied once the area is cleansed thoroughly and there are NO signs or symptoms of any visible debris left. The area has to have the change to start healing BEFORE you put a filler on top of it otherwise if there is any leftover debris inside, you will be trapping it in there potentially causing bigger issues. Others use super glue to help with the repair. Keratex is another alternative to repair a cracked hoof which is a hoof putty that can be used to fill in the cracks. Adhere by Vettec is another option and I will include a link at the bottom of this to their site and a farriers before and after pictures along with a video demonstration (This video was not done on a pig). Biotin also comes in a cream and can be applied directly to the affected area of the hoof. Horseshoer's secret is a good supplement for hoof and skin, made for horses, but works well in pigs too. The recommended dose is 1 tsp daily for a week, then 1 tsp once a week. Oil/moisturize the hoof with coconut oil, other hoof conditioning oils or something like hoof flex. This will help prevent cracking. Always consult with your vet to be sure they are in agreement with your plans or ask if they can make suggestions for what you can do. Vitamin deficiency or trauma to the hooves can also lead to split or cracked hooves.
If there are any areas of the nail that are need to be trimmed off, do so when its numb from the oragel as this provides temporary pain relief.
Another newer treatment is Manuka Honey from which can be purchased from Amazon. Honey has an amazing antimicrobial properties and can even help when antibiotics are no longer working. It also has the same actions as peroxide. It will keep the tissue soft and supple too. It has to be medical grade honey, not something from the grocery store, make sure it is from New Zealand. There is a newer one that they are discovering helps with gram negative bacteria. Ill update once I have all the information about that.
Hoof Heal is a product you can buy at your local tractor supply stores that stimulates hoof growth and can also be very useful in situations like this. It also crates a drawing action for any abscesses. http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/cut-heal-hoof-heal-16-oz
There are many crack fillers on the market. Another great one is called SBS crack filler kit.
You can read more about and also order this system by clicking here.
You can use an antiseptic cleaner as well. Remedy Recovery is an antiseptic spray typically used for dogs, but safe for animals.
http://cardinalpet.com/remedyrecovery/products/
Some vets may suggest letting a crack grow out. however, if your pig is amenable to being handeld, consider having a farrier get involved and try to epoxy the hoof crack, or support it with hoof epoxy and a wire. This will take some skill, so getting someone involved who is experienced in this should be considered.
Read more: http://www.justanswer.com/large-animal-vet/8ftei-pot-belly-pig-cracked-hoof-up-vet.
Regarding the treatment mentioned above: http://www.equilox.com
http://www.keratex.net/hoof_putty.htm
http://www.vettec.com/content/farrier-uses-vettecs-adhere-repair-hoofwall
This unfortunate pig needed an antifungal medication to treat these cracked hooves.
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Fungal infection creating cracked hooves
photo credit Dawn Camp
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Cracked hoof success story
Thanks to Joseph and Meghan Smith for sharing their pictures and story with us. Their rescue pig had an area on the underside of his hoof that had separated from the pad. They are unsure how this injury occurred, presumed to have happened while playing, but they sprung into action in order to correct the defect. They elected to use antiseptic, hoof conditioner, hoof dressing and finally a hoof filler once they felt the area had healed enough. the results were excellent! See below for before and after pictures along with the specific items used to treat this sweet pigs' hoof.
From Joseph
"Max had cracked his bottom front hoof while playing it must have flexed and just split. Now I treated it with hoof heal , apinol and hooflex until it was ready to be filled. This took about 3 weeks to get it to a point I was comfortable that I wouldn't be trapping any dirt in a open wound that could lead to a infection. I'm extremely happy with the result. Once a little bit of growth occurred and it calloused over I felt it was ready. The problem is even while it was healing the two pieces would flex and reopen the wound. This fills that gap creating a very strong and durable bond."
Thanks to Joseph and Meghan Smith for sharing their pictures and story with us. Their rescue pig had an area on the underside of his hoof that had separated from the pad. They are unsure how this injury occurred, presumed to have happened while playing, but they sprung into action in order to correct the defect. They elected to use antiseptic, hoof conditioner, hoof dressing and finally a hoof filler once they felt the area had healed enough. the results were excellent! See below for before and after pictures along with the specific items used to treat this sweet pigs' hoof.
From Joseph
"Max had cracked his bottom front hoof while playing it must have flexed and just split. Now I treated it with hoof heal , apinol and hooflex until it was ready to be filled. This took about 3 weeks to get it to a point I was comfortable that I wouldn't be trapping any dirt in a open wound that could lead to a infection. I'm extremely happy with the result. Once a little bit of growth occurred and it calloused over I felt it was ready. The problem is even while it was healing the two pieces would flex and reopen the wound. This fills that gap creating a very strong and durable bond."
Mini Pig Hoof Concerns
Hoof rot
Foot rot, hoof rot or septic laminitis, in pigs is not caused by one particular organism. Foot rot is a condition of injury to the soft tissue of the pig’s foot, or claw, which is then invaded by any of a variety of organisms, leading to further complication. Be sure to check your pig over daily. Look for any kind of cuts or scrapes to the hooves, look for splitting or abscesses. If you intervene early, the chances of recovery are obviously increased. If you treat at the first sign that something isn't right, usually, the problem doesn't become systemic like this.
The initial insult to the external part of the claw is called bush foot. This involves a crack to the hoof, splitting of the hoof or penetration of the sole by a sharp object or by erosion through wear and tear. An infection takes hold causing painful swelling and ulceration in the joint, laminae or coronary band. If the fissure and subsequent infection penetrate more deeply into the soft tissue then the condition is called foot rot. At this point, in addition to pain, swelling and ulceration, the pig may develop a life-threatening septicemia or bacteremia. Once the condition has become systemic bacteria can invade other areas of the body including the liver and brain.
The initial insult to the external part of the claw is called bush foot. This involves a crack to the hoof, splitting of the hoof or penetration of the sole by a sharp object or by erosion through wear and tear. An infection takes hold causing painful swelling and ulceration in the joint, laminae or coronary band. If the fissure and subsequent infection penetrate more deeply into the soft tissue then the condition is called foot rot. At this point, in addition to pain, swelling and ulceration, the pig may develop a life-threatening septicemia or bacteremia. Once the condition has become systemic bacteria can invade other areas of the body including the liver and brain.
Causes
Foot rot is usually caused by sharp aspects in concrete flooring, or any other flooring material that can cause a physical injury or tear to the claw. The problem is then compounded if the pig’s area is unsanitary or wet.
Another possible cause is a biotin deficiency. Biotin, or Vitamin H, is necessary for the healthy growth of the hoof wall and for maintaining its integrity. A deficiency could lead to the breakdown of the wall making it more vulnerable to damage and infection. A deficiency can be easily remedied with a supplement in the feed.
Clinical Signs
-Reluctance to rise or lameness, even to the point of refusal to put any weight on the affected foot may be seen.
-Swelling of the whole claw and intense pain if the infection is advanced.
-Cracks and splits in the hoof sole or hoof wall, possibly with visible necrotic ulcerations.
-A test for organisms present may show Arcanobacterium (Actinomyces) pyogenes , Fusobacterium necrophorum , Borrelia suilla , and a mixture of gram-negative and gram-positive cocci and rods, according to Merck Veterinary Manual.
Treatment
Once diagnosed, foot rot can be treated with penicillin, tetracycline or other antibiotics or antimicrobials, depending on the type of organism cultured. Anti-inflammatories can also help with swelling and pain management if the sow is not pregnant. This treatment is more effective in the earlier stages of foot rot and becomes less effective in more advanced cases, or the longer the pig has had the problem in cases of chronic infection.
Treatment also includes trimming away damaged hoof wall material. In severe cases, x-rays to determine the extent of the problem are necessary, possibly followed by anesthesia and amputation of the foot. Usually this is not a good option from an economic standpoint so immediate culling is indicated. Sometimes infections are super bad and may need X-rays to make sure an infection has not compromised the bone or joint capsules and possibly amputation if the issue is chronic.
As always the best cure is prevention, with smooth floors free of sharp objects or harsh chemicals, clean bedding and generally sanitary conditions. Running the pigs through a formalin or copper sulphate bath several times a week can help with disinfection of the feet and the area. Finally, insure their feed contains an appropriate amount of biotin to support hoof wall health.
Source: www.merckmanuals.com
The initial insult to the external part of the claw is called bush foot. This involves a crack to the hoof, splitting of the hoof or penetration of the sole by a sharp object or by erosion through wear and tear. An infection takes hold causing painful swelling and ulceration in the joint, laminae or coronary band. If the fissure and subsequent infection penetrate more deeply into the soft tissue then the condition is called foot rot. At this point, in addition to pain, swelling and ulceration, the pig may develop a life-threatening septicemia or bacteremia. Once the condition has become systemic bacteria can invade other areas of the body including the liver and brain.
The initial insult to the external part of the claw is called bush foot. This involves a crack to the hoof, splitting of the hoof or penetration of the sole by a sharp object or by erosion through wear and tear. An infection takes hold causing painful swelling and ulceration in the joint, laminae or coronary band. If the fissure and subsequent infection penetrate more deeply into the soft tissue then the condition is called foot rot. At this point, in addition to pain, swelling and ulceration, the pig may develop a life-threatening septicemia or bacteremia. Once the condition has become systemic bacteria can invade other areas of the body including the liver and brain.
Causes
Foot rot is usually caused by sharp aspects in concrete flooring, or any other flooring material that can cause a physical injury or tear to the claw. The problem is then compounded if the pig’s area is unsanitary or wet.
Another possible cause is a biotin deficiency. Biotin, or Vitamin H, is necessary for the healthy growth of the hoof wall and for maintaining its integrity. A deficiency could lead to the breakdown of the wall making it more vulnerable to damage and infection. A deficiency can be easily remedied with a supplement in the feed.
Clinical Signs
-Reluctance to rise or lameness, even to the point of refusal to put any weight on the affected foot may be seen.
-Swelling of the whole claw and intense pain if the infection is advanced.
-Cracks and splits in the hoof sole or hoof wall, possibly with visible necrotic ulcerations.
-A test for organisms present may show Arcanobacterium (Actinomyces) pyogenes , Fusobacterium necrophorum , Borrelia suilla , and a mixture of gram-negative and gram-positive cocci and rods, according to Merck Veterinary Manual.
Treatment
Once diagnosed, foot rot can be treated with penicillin, tetracycline or other antibiotics or antimicrobials, depending on the type of organism cultured. Anti-inflammatories can also help with swelling and pain management if the sow is not pregnant. This treatment is more effective in the earlier stages of foot rot and becomes less effective in more advanced cases, or the longer the pig has had the problem in cases of chronic infection.
Treatment also includes trimming away damaged hoof wall material. In severe cases, x-rays to determine the extent of the problem are necessary, possibly followed by anesthesia and amputation of the foot. Usually this is not a good option from an economic standpoint so immediate culling is indicated. Sometimes infections are super bad and may need X-rays to make sure an infection has not compromised the bone or joint capsules and possibly amputation if the issue is chronic.
As always the best cure is prevention, with smooth floors free of sharp objects or harsh chemicals, clean bedding and generally sanitary conditions. Running the pigs through a formalin or copper sulphate bath several times a week can help with disinfection of the feet and the area. Finally, insure their feed contains an appropriate amount of biotin to support hoof wall health.
Source: www.merckmanuals.com
Angular Limb Deformity
Mule foot
Knowing that people breed this in order to achieve it PURPOSELY is a shame. They are literally breeding a pig that will suffer a life of pain and ultimately decrease their quality of life. Is that fair?