Potty Training Tips
Potty training your pig is probably the first thing you will work on with your pig. Using the advice and tools below can help to set you and your pig up for success. Piglets don't have complete control over their bladder for several months, some do great with potty training and have very few accidents, while others take a long time and some never quite catch on. Consistency is key! You have to train yourself to be proactive and offer potty breaks frequently until your pig understands where the appropriate place to potty is and how to notify you they need to go. Some people use a signal, others use a bell on the door that a pig can use to alert you they need to go outside to potty but whatever method you use, you must be consistent with it in order for this to be successful!!!!
Potty training:
Must haves: Kennel, just big enough to sleep in *Outside secure area, small pen if possible Cheerios, Bell for door, Lots of patience, I like to say, first you have to be potty trained, and then your pig will be.
Give yourself a good weekend devoted to your pig. Remember, this is a life long commitment you have made, get it right in the first 60 days. Always keep in your mind: If you don’t train me, don’t blame me.
You can set up puppy pads by the door they are going out if they are use to some kind of littler box to aid in the training. I use a washing machine tray from Home Depot for $15 and puppy pads. This is to potty on, not sleep on or play with, back to NO means NO. This is in case they go to the door and you don’t see them at it. This gives them an option for an emergency. You will find they prefer to go outside once they understand they can.
Set the alarm on your clock for every 30 minutes. Start by taking them outside, the small pen comes in handy here. Show them the bell on the door and ring it, every time you go outside to potty. Put them in the pen, you can use a Cheerios to get them into it at first, or just let them scream when you pick them up and put them in. If you do not have a pen take them to the same spot every time. Use a verbal command, I say, “go potty”. You have to stay and watch to make sure they go, if they go, take them in, lots of praise. Repeat in 30 minutes. If they have an accident in that 30 minutes, they didn’t go when outside or 30 minutes is too long, set your alarm for 15 minutes. Repeat.
If they do not go, then it is into the crate. This crate must only be big enough to sleep in, and always cover it with a towel. If, they fuss, put the crate where you can not hear them. In 30 minutes, take them out to potty, if they do not, back into the crate. If for some reason they have an accident in the crate, just change the bedding and move on, do not correct them or punish them for it. I use old bath towels, easy to wash and you can throw in a little bleach to get clean, make sure to rinse the kennel out too. Repeat, you will find that in 24 hours they are getting it.
** In no way are they potty trained yet, but you are now. In a few weeks they will be. During this time I also recommend that you kennel at night and while you are gone. As they get better at holding it, you can move them to a little bigger kennel.
I also recommend time outside, just to be out being a pig. A secure outside area with shade, water and protection from the elements is also a great place for them to be if you have to be gone for a few hours. Just make sure it is secure. You pig can lift a chain link fence to go under it, never underestimate them. I know this isn’t for every ones yards, but pigs can also learn to use a dog door, a pig that can let itself in an out is a very happy pig.
* If you don't have a secure pen in the house and one outside, that is your chore for the weekend. You will need both and be happy you took the time now to take care of it. A easy outside pen for about $75 is, 3 hog panels from your local feed store, 4 T-Posts, and some zip ties. Cut one of the hog panels in half. Drive in the T-Post for the corners and zip tie the panels to the T-posts. A 16' x 8' outside pig pen, that you can move if you don't drive the T-posts in to far. Add a bale of hay and your piggy will be in heaven.
Written by Dawn Blackburn
Must haves: Kennel, just big enough to sleep in *Outside secure area, small pen if possible Cheerios, Bell for door, Lots of patience, I like to say, first you have to be potty trained, and then your pig will be.
Give yourself a good weekend devoted to your pig. Remember, this is a life long commitment you have made, get it right in the first 60 days. Always keep in your mind: If you don’t train me, don’t blame me.
You can set up puppy pads by the door they are going out if they are use to some kind of littler box to aid in the training. I use a washing machine tray from Home Depot for $15 and puppy pads. This is to potty on, not sleep on or play with, back to NO means NO. This is in case they go to the door and you don’t see them at it. This gives them an option for an emergency. You will find they prefer to go outside once they understand they can.
Set the alarm on your clock for every 30 minutes. Start by taking them outside, the small pen comes in handy here. Show them the bell on the door and ring it, every time you go outside to potty. Put them in the pen, you can use a Cheerios to get them into it at first, or just let them scream when you pick them up and put them in. If you do not have a pen take them to the same spot every time. Use a verbal command, I say, “go potty”. You have to stay and watch to make sure they go, if they go, take them in, lots of praise. Repeat in 30 minutes. If they have an accident in that 30 minutes, they didn’t go when outside or 30 minutes is too long, set your alarm for 15 minutes. Repeat.
If they do not go, then it is into the crate. This crate must only be big enough to sleep in, and always cover it with a towel. If, they fuss, put the crate where you can not hear them. In 30 minutes, take them out to potty, if they do not, back into the crate. If for some reason they have an accident in the crate, just change the bedding and move on, do not correct them or punish them for it. I use old bath towels, easy to wash and you can throw in a little bleach to get clean, make sure to rinse the kennel out too. Repeat, you will find that in 24 hours they are getting it.
** In no way are they potty trained yet, but you are now. In a few weeks they will be. During this time I also recommend that you kennel at night and while you are gone. As they get better at holding it, you can move them to a little bigger kennel.
I also recommend time outside, just to be out being a pig. A secure outside area with shade, water and protection from the elements is also a great place for them to be if you have to be gone for a few hours. Just make sure it is secure. You pig can lift a chain link fence to go under it, never underestimate them. I know this isn’t for every ones yards, but pigs can also learn to use a dog door, a pig that can let itself in an out is a very happy pig.
* If you don't have a secure pen in the house and one outside, that is your chore for the weekend. You will need both and be happy you took the time now to take care of it. A easy outside pen for about $75 is, 3 hog panels from your local feed store, 4 T-Posts, and some zip ties. Cut one of the hog panels in half. Drive in the T-Post for the corners and zip tie the panels to the T-posts. A 16' x 8' outside pig pen, that you can move if you don't drive the T-posts in to far. Add a bale of hay and your piggy will be in heaven.
Written by Dawn Blackburn
Potty Trouble Shooting:
Tamara Helgerson has great potty training advice posted below for piglets struggling with potty training:
Remember, you have a pig, and a baby one at that! A lot of piglets go through regression with potty training, but there are a lot of things you can try!
-The suggestion of giving him less space to roam in is a very good one, even when you're home. We had a bedroom we were able to keep our pig in when he was little (though he has had free range of he house since he was just over a year old--he will grow out of this phase!), and baby gates can be very helpful if you don't have such a space! Here are some other things to consider:
-How often are you cleaning his box out? My pig would absolutely rather have peed on the floor than set foot in a dirty litterbox; we were cleaning it out a minimum of 2x a week when he was using it exclusively and not going outside at all. We also sprayed the box (a long, flat Tupperware container, like the type you can slide under a bed) with a very dilute bleach solution and wiped it out before adding new litter to keep the smell down.
-What kind of litter are you using? Your pig may not like the feel of it. We liked hardwood pellets (like what's used in wood burning stoves--NOT pine pellets, as they're very dusty) over a layer of pine shavings. It was absorbent and made the least mess.
-When your pig is having accidents, is he peeing in the same spot(s)? If so, start feeding him in the areas he's chosen as his potties. He's more motivated by food than peeing, and they typically don't like to pee where they eat! Even if you just throw a few pellets on the floor in the area where he's been going (once it's cleaned, of course ) a couple times a day, that should help!
-Make sure the spots where he has had accidents have been cleaned very thoroughly with an enzymatic cleaner. Pigs have very strong noses, and if even a hint of the urine smell remains, they'll think that's a cool spot to pee some more. Start by soaking the area (if it's carpet) with white vinegar, let it sit for an hour or two, then suck it up with a carpet cleaner or soak it up with a towel and rinse thoroughly with water. If that doesn't work, we have had great success with OdoBan, which is available for about $8 for a 1-gallon, highly concentrated jug at Home Depot. We prefer the eucalyptus scent smile emoticon It may take a few times to get the smell out completely, but don't give up!
-Add a second litter box to an area where he hangs out a lot when he's not in his pen. We had 3 at one point, Add a box to the area your pig IS going in to encourage the use of the litter box.
-If you have a yard, training him to go outside will be immensely helpful. They'd much rather go outside than in--by the time he hit about a year and a half old, Our pig would basically hold the urine all day if that was how long he had to wait to go out, and only use the box if it was too cold for us to let him outside. Now that we live in a more temperate climate, we've gotten rid of the litter boxes entirely and he only goes outside.
Stephanie Matlock suggests:
-Watch water intake and make sure your pig is offered potty time multiple times per hour for at least 3 hours after last drinking. If your pig is a big water drinker, it may be easier to let your pig stay outside during the day or have access to go outside anytime via dog door.
-Pottying right outside the box: Put towels or puppy pads around the perimeter of the potty box until they get better control. Place them in the potty box often or your pig may not want to use a litter box and prefer to use the bathroom outside.
-Spraying urine over the side of box: Get a box with taller sides and cut a walk in entrance for them. You can also place potty pads on the outside of the box to catch any accidental overflow
-Pottying in inappropriate places: If they're going under a bed or under a desk, they're telling you they want privacy. Try a covered litter box or a plastic tub with a lid with an entry way cut in. If they're picking spots around the house to potty, clean the area thoroughly!! Their sense of smell is incredible. Just because we can't smell it, doesn't mean it is gone. Once the odor has been eliminated (tips below) use those spots as "feeding stations." Pigs don't like to potty where they eat. If you sprinkle their pellets and treats over those spots, several times a day, they'll view that spot as a place to eat, therefore they'll hesitate to soil the area. If the pig potties where they shouldn't, put a piece of stool or a urine soaked paper towel into the litter box, put pig into the box and tell them "go potty" as they sniff the paper towel. **Sometimes urinary frequency can indicate the possibility of UTI. You can collect a urine sample using a soup ladle and putting the sample in a clean container and taking that to your vets office for testing. Some vets will require the pig to be brought into the clinic while others feel comfortable diagnosing with a sample. Use the freshest urine possible and refrigerate the sample unless you take it immediately after collection.
-Hormones: Intact pigs are incredibly difficult to potty train because their hormones will drive them to leave their scent to attract a mate. Spayed and neutered pigs are far easier to potty train.
-Pig refuses box: If your pig refuses to use the box, they might not feel comfortable entering. Make sure there is a short entrance for them. Make sure they feel secure standing in it as pigs don't like slippery surfaces. Experiment with different litter choices. Some pigs have litter preferences and refuse to use litters they don't like. Again, they may prefer to go outside for potty time.
-Pig was potty trained & now won't use the box!! A few reasons pigs may stop using their litter box after developing good habits are: a urinary tract infection, soiled litter box not cleaned often enough, other pets (i.e. dogs) have access to the potty area & pig doesn't feel comfortable with pottying there/needs more privacy/security, pig has outgrown the litter box and needs a bigger accommodation or pig wants to potty outside. Many pigs naturally prefer to potty outside especially as they mature and develop better control. If your pig does not have a UTI, has a clean box, with a litter they prefer, that is PLENTY big enough and still isn't consistently using the box, then try taking them outside to potty several times a day (using the tips above). They may be trying to tell you they don't want to use a letterbox altogether. Pigs can be taught to use a doggy door and typically prefer to potty outside, a pig that can let itself in and out at its own leisure is a happy pig indeed.
-Sometimes pigs have too much freedom and confining them to a smaller space with just enough room for the bed, food and letterbox is what is needed. Pigs don't typically potty where they eat or sleep, so the only other alternative would be to use the letterbox provided. There are times that your pig doesn't care for the type of litter you've provided, you can try a puppy pad, change the type of litter you're currently using or try one of those grass potty pads.
Tamara Helgerson has great potty training advice posted below for piglets struggling with potty training:
Remember, you have a pig, and a baby one at that! A lot of piglets go through regression with potty training, but there are a lot of things you can try!
-The suggestion of giving him less space to roam in is a very good one, even when you're home. We had a bedroom we were able to keep our pig in when he was little (though he has had free range of he house since he was just over a year old--he will grow out of this phase!), and baby gates can be very helpful if you don't have such a space! Here are some other things to consider:
-How often are you cleaning his box out? My pig would absolutely rather have peed on the floor than set foot in a dirty litterbox; we were cleaning it out a minimum of 2x a week when he was using it exclusively and not going outside at all. We also sprayed the box (a long, flat Tupperware container, like the type you can slide under a bed) with a very dilute bleach solution and wiped it out before adding new litter to keep the smell down.
-What kind of litter are you using? Your pig may not like the feel of it. We liked hardwood pellets (like what's used in wood burning stoves--NOT pine pellets, as they're very dusty) over a layer of pine shavings. It was absorbent and made the least mess.
-When your pig is having accidents, is he peeing in the same spot(s)? If so, start feeding him in the areas he's chosen as his potties. He's more motivated by food than peeing, and they typically don't like to pee where they eat! Even if you just throw a few pellets on the floor in the area where he's been going (once it's cleaned, of course ) a couple times a day, that should help!
-Make sure the spots where he has had accidents have been cleaned very thoroughly with an enzymatic cleaner. Pigs have very strong noses, and if even a hint of the urine smell remains, they'll think that's a cool spot to pee some more. Start by soaking the area (if it's carpet) with white vinegar, let it sit for an hour or two, then suck it up with a carpet cleaner or soak it up with a towel and rinse thoroughly with water. If that doesn't work, we have had great success with OdoBan, which is available for about $8 for a 1-gallon, highly concentrated jug at Home Depot. We prefer the eucalyptus scent smile emoticon It may take a few times to get the smell out completely, but don't give up!
-Add a second litter box to an area where he hangs out a lot when he's not in his pen. We had 3 at one point, Add a box to the area your pig IS going in to encourage the use of the litter box.
-If you have a yard, training him to go outside will be immensely helpful. They'd much rather go outside than in--by the time he hit about a year and a half old, Our pig would basically hold the urine all day if that was how long he had to wait to go out, and only use the box if it was too cold for us to let him outside. Now that we live in a more temperate climate, we've gotten rid of the litter boxes entirely and he only goes outside.
Stephanie Matlock suggests:
-Watch water intake and make sure your pig is offered potty time multiple times per hour for at least 3 hours after last drinking. If your pig is a big water drinker, it may be easier to let your pig stay outside during the day or have access to go outside anytime via dog door.
-Pottying right outside the box: Put towels or puppy pads around the perimeter of the potty box until they get better control. Place them in the potty box often or your pig may not want to use a litter box and prefer to use the bathroom outside.
-Spraying urine over the side of box: Get a box with taller sides and cut a walk in entrance for them. You can also place potty pads on the outside of the box to catch any accidental overflow
-Pottying in inappropriate places: If they're going under a bed or under a desk, they're telling you they want privacy. Try a covered litter box or a plastic tub with a lid with an entry way cut in. If they're picking spots around the house to potty, clean the area thoroughly!! Their sense of smell is incredible. Just because we can't smell it, doesn't mean it is gone. Once the odor has been eliminated (tips below) use those spots as "feeding stations." Pigs don't like to potty where they eat. If you sprinkle their pellets and treats over those spots, several times a day, they'll view that spot as a place to eat, therefore they'll hesitate to soil the area. If the pig potties where they shouldn't, put a piece of stool or a urine soaked paper towel into the litter box, put pig into the box and tell them "go potty" as they sniff the paper towel. **Sometimes urinary frequency can indicate the possibility of UTI. You can collect a urine sample using a soup ladle and putting the sample in a clean container and taking that to your vets office for testing. Some vets will require the pig to be brought into the clinic while others feel comfortable diagnosing with a sample. Use the freshest urine possible and refrigerate the sample unless you take it immediately after collection.
-Hormones: Intact pigs are incredibly difficult to potty train because their hormones will drive them to leave their scent to attract a mate. Spayed and neutered pigs are far easier to potty train.
-Pig refuses box: If your pig refuses to use the box, they might not feel comfortable entering. Make sure there is a short entrance for them. Make sure they feel secure standing in it as pigs don't like slippery surfaces. Experiment with different litter choices. Some pigs have litter preferences and refuse to use litters they don't like. Again, they may prefer to go outside for potty time.
-Pig was potty trained & now won't use the box!! A few reasons pigs may stop using their litter box after developing good habits are: a urinary tract infection, soiled litter box not cleaned often enough, other pets (i.e. dogs) have access to the potty area & pig doesn't feel comfortable with pottying there/needs more privacy/security, pig has outgrown the litter box and needs a bigger accommodation or pig wants to potty outside. Many pigs naturally prefer to potty outside especially as they mature and develop better control. If your pig does not have a UTI, has a clean box, with a litter they prefer, that is PLENTY big enough and still isn't consistently using the box, then try taking them outside to potty several times a day (using the tips above). They may be trying to tell you they don't want to use a letterbox altogether. Pigs can be taught to use a doggy door and typically prefer to potty outside, a pig that can let itself in and out at its own leisure is a happy pig indeed.
-Sometimes pigs have too much freedom and confining them to a smaller space with just enough room for the bed, food and letterbox is what is needed. Pigs don't typically potty where they eat or sleep, so the only other alternative would be to use the letterbox provided. There are times that your pig doesn't care for the type of litter you've provided, you can try a puppy pad, change the type of litter you're currently using or try one of those grass potty pads.
My pig is peeing everywhere...
There are many things going on here.....help with this situation should involve 2 paths: 1. Figuring out what is causing the behavior and stopping it. And, 2. Controlling the urine in the meantime so you all don't drown. Let's focus on the second part here. First, verify that the pig doesn't has diabetes myelitis (the sugar kind), kidney disease, or a UTI. Basic blood work and a urinalysis will do this. If all is normal, then diabetes insipidus is suspected (2 types....pituitary/hormone based....would be really rare in 2 unrelated pigs. The body is not physically capable of concentrating the urine, so tons is made. Vs psychogenic DI where pigs drink because they like to do so, a habit). Then a vet will determine the amount of water that the pig needs in 24 hours, and that is what they get. Limited water means MUCH less urine, which means less mess. Next: limit access to the entire house so that you limit the mess. No more getting on furniture until this problem is under control. No more free run of the house until the problem is under control. At the same time, make the litter box(es) as attractive as possible. They need to be big and have high sides. Pigs like to pee in corners and some like to put their rumps up against a wall. High sides prevent urine over the side. Some pigs prefer their own box, so if you have 2, having separate litter boxes would be ideal. It would be good if you can put boxes in an area where they can be locked in, put them in the box before bed, before coming into rest of house....and make sure they pee before you let them out. The pig needs to be put Into the box for pee after eating and drinking, then again in 20 min. Lock in until they pee. Reward them when they go in box and again when they pee. Every time they pee appropriately, reward them.
There are many things going on here.....help with this situation should involve 2 paths: 1. Figuring out what is causing the behavior and stopping it. And, 2. Controlling the urine in the meantime so you all don't drown. Let's focus on the second part here. First, verify that the pig doesn't has diabetes myelitis (the sugar kind), kidney disease, or a UTI. Basic blood work and a urinalysis will do this. If all is normal, then diabetes insipidus is suspected (2 types....pituitary/hormone based....would be really rare in 2 unrelated pigs. The body is not physically capable of concentrating the urine, so tons is made. Vs psychogenic DI where pigs drink because they like to do so, a habit). Then a vet will determine the amount of water that the pig needs in 24 hours, and that is what they get. Limited water means MUCH less urine, which means less mess. Next: limit access to the entire house so that you limit the mess. No more getting on furniture until this problem is under control. No more free run of the house until the problem is under control. At the same time, make the litter box(es) as attractive as possible. They need to be big and have high sides. Pigs like to pee in corners and some like to put their rumps up against a wall. High sides prevent urine over the side. Some pigs prefer their own box, so if you have 2, having separate litter boxes would be ideal. It would be good if you can put boxes in an area where they can be locked in, put them in the box before bed, before coming into rest of house....and make sure they pee before you let them out. The pig needs to be put Into the box for pee after eating and drinking, then again in 20 min. Lock in until they pee. Reward them when they go in box and again when they pee. Every time they pee appropriately, reward them.
This is actually a pet bed, but would make an ideal litterbox with the opening and higher sides. (once sealed so it wouldn't leak)
Pigs urinate for 4 reasons:
1. They gotta go and can't hold it any longer ( when your pig goes inside his bed during the night).
2. Sexual attraction....it says, I am so virile and fertile, how can you resist me? (Pig flirting). It lets the boys know where the receptive girls are.
3. Territorial...I am the dominant pig (boar) and this is MY territory, so I will pee all over it just to make sure you know it.
4. Submission.I am so low, and I need to be friends, so I will pee to prove it. Aka "let's be friends". (I am really glad that people just shake hands).
House pigs get a bit confused....they don't need to mark territory, they are not sexually active, and they pretty much know who is top pig. They still have the instinctual drive to do these things, but there is no appropriate outlet for the behavior. This is frustrating for them, so they urinate in abnormal ways. Yours may have turned this into a habit. ..... We need to figure a way to change the habit and to eliminate the behavior. The easiest way to do this (once we get the drinking under control) is to substitute a good behavior for a bad one. Example: teach them to sit....reward them for sitting behavior. When they approach each other, the bed or couch, or you. Have them sit (reward the behavior). It is really hard for a pig to pee when it is sitting. In the girls, it covers the vulva and "caps the well." In the boys, they cannot achieve partial drop down so they cannot urinate. When you cannot pay attention and make them sit, they should be restricted to a space where pee-int will be much less of a problem. ALWAYS reward the desired behavior. Do not punish the undesirable behavior because that will make you seem to be dominating and the submissive pig will wet its pants....just return the offending pig to his/her area. ~Cathy Zolicani, DVM
1. They gotta go and can't hold it any longer ( when your pig goes inside his bed during the night).
2. Sexual attraction....it says, I am so virile and fertile, how can you resist me? (Pig flirting). It lets the boys know where the receptive girls are.
3. Territorial...I am the dominant pig (boar) and this is MY territory, so I will pee all over it just to make sure you know it.
4. Submission.I am so low, and I need to be friends, so I will pee to prove it. Aka "let's be friends". (I am really glad that people just shake hands).
House pigs get a bit confused....they don't need to mark territory, they are not sexually active, and they pretty much know who is top pig. They still have the instinctual drive to do these things, but there is no appropriate outlet for the behavior. This is frustrating for them, so they urinate in abnormal ways. Yours may have turned this into a habit. ..... We need to figure a way to change the habit and to eliminate the behavior. The easiest way to do this (once we get the drinking under control) is to substitute a good behavior for a bad one. Example: teach them to sit....reward them for sitting behavior. When they approach each other, the bed or couch, or you. Have them sit (reward the behavior). It is really hard for a pig to pee when it is sitting. In the girls, it covers the vulva and "caps the well." In the boys, they cannot achieve partial drop down so they cannot urinate. When you cannot pay attention and make them sit, they should be restricted to a space where pee-int will be much less of a problem. ALWAYS reward the desired behavior. Do not punish the undesirable behavior because that will make you seem to be dominating and the submissive pig will wet its pants....just return the offending pig to his/her area. ~Cathy Zolicani, DVM
My pig "was" potty trained, now he/she is urinating in the house.
Confine, confine, confine. As stated above, if your pig is intact, he/she may be trying to attact a suitable mate. (Despite the fact that there may not be any other pigs remotely close) Your pig could be urinating in "your" space to protest something he/she doesn't like. Your pig could actually not be able to "hold it" and didn't have any other alternative. My suggestions?
- Know when your pig needs to potty after eating/drinking.
- Keep track of how often your pig is urinating.
- Ensure you are there during the normal times to encourage proper potty procedures.
- Collect a sample and take it to the vet so you can rule out UTI.
- Take the time to retrain your pig. Confine your pig to a smaller space so the spaces are defined as his/hers and yours. Be sure to let your pig to the potty area every 30 minutes until this is 2nd nature.
- Monitor water intake to be sure your pig isn't drinking excessive amounts of water. (This does NOT mean to restrict water, only to determine if your pig is drinking excessively which could point to a medical disorder as stated below)
- Be sure any potty areas are free from items your pig is finding unsuitable. Be sure the litterbox allows for good traction and your pig is able to easily step in and out without difficulty. Pigs that have to take extra steps or precautions will go the easier route. (And that is peeing on YOUR floor)
- Make sure you are cleaning the area your pig urinated on with an enzymatic cleaner, remember, their sense of smell is super sensitive and if they detect the odor of urine, they may very well think that it is an appropriate spot to urinate in.
Medical disorders that can affect urine output
In my personal experience, you will know your pigs habits better than anyone else. Watch your pig and determine how much time after drinking does your pig typically have to urinate. To maintain homeostasis, the body uses the kidneys and filters out impurities through eliminations systems, but what goes in, must come out. The amount of water a pig drinks directly affects the amount of urine that will need to come out. If your pigs drinks a lot, your pig will need to urinate more. There are times were fluids need to be pushed because the weather is warmer or the urine appears to be concentrated. (dark in color which can indicate dehydration) If you feel like the elimination or potty habits have changed, are abnormal, or the urine doesn't look or appear to be normal in color, consistency or smell, ask your vet if you can collect a urine sample and bring it to their office for testing. Always rule out medical issues first.
1. Pigs can have diabetes mellitus. One of the classic signs of diabetes is increased thirst, in turn, increased urine.
2. Pigs will also drink because they are bored, this is called psychogenic water consumption and this behavior can also be corrected. Because of the boredom and nothing better to do, pigs will simply drink massive amounts of water and as we all know, what goes in must come out.
3. There is another type of disorder not associated with the diabetes that pertains to blood sugar issues, its called diabetes insipidus. Diabetes insipidus- Diabetes insipidus has nothing to do with the type 1 and type 2 diabetes related to blood sugar. Diabetes insipidus (DI) is a disorder that is caused by an imbalance of a hormone called vasopressin which is secreted by the pituitary gland, which controls kidney function. The person or animal will experience excessive thirst and the production of a large amount of urine. An electrolyte imbalance is almost always associated with diabetes insipidus. The minerals, sodium, calcium and potassium are three forms of electrolytes that are part of the internal pump that maintains fluid balance within the body. When these electrolytes get out of balance, physical symptoms of fatigue, body aches and pains will manifest. The urine output related to diabetes insipidus can range from 0.5 gallons per day to 3 or more gallons per day, depending on the severity of the disorder. Your vet can check blood work to see if this is a possibility. (This is an uncommon disorder that causes an imbalance of water in the body. This imbalance leads to intense thirst even after drinking fluids (polydipsia), and excretion of large amounts of urine (polyuria). There are tests that can be done to check for this disorder.)
4. UTI (urinary tract infections) can cause pigs to urinate in unusual spots as well as hormone driven issues.
You can easily collect a urine sample using a soup ladle mid-stream and place in a clean container. Refrigerate if its not immediately taken in for testing. The fresher the urine, the more accurate your result will be. Keep in mind, some pigs will alter their routine because they have an infection, some pigs are being defiant and some pigs just prefer to potty outside. A change in habits doesn't mean your pig is sick, it means you need to be aware that this is a possibility.
1. Pigs can have diabetes mellitus. One of the classic signs of diabetes is increased thirst, in turn, increased urine.
2. Pigs will also drink because they are bored, this is called psychogenic water consumption and this behavior can also be corrected. Because of the boredom and nothing better to do, pigs will simply drink massive amounts of water and as we all know, what goes in must come out.
3. There is another type of disorder not associated with the diabetes that pertains to blood sugar issues, its called diabetes insipidus. Diabetes insipidus- Diabetes insipidus has nothing to do with the type 1 and type 2 diabetes related to blood sugar. Diabetes insipidus (DI) is a disorder that is caused by an imbalance of a hormone called vasopressin which is secreted by the pituitary gland, which controls kidney function. The person or animal will experience excessive thirst and the production of a large amount of urine. An electrolyte imbalance is almost always associated with diabetes insipidus. The minerals, sodium, calcium and potassium are three forms of electrolytes that are part of the internal pump that maintains fluid balance within the body. When these electrolytes get out of balance, physical symptoms of fatigue, body aches and pains will manifest. The urine output related to diabetes insipidus can range from 0.5 gallons per day to 3 or more gallons per day, depending on the severity of the disorder. Your vet can check blood work to see if this is a possibility. (This is an uncommon disorder that causes an imbalance of water in the body. This imbalance leads to intense thirst even after drinking fluids (polydipsia), and excretion of large amounts of urine (polyuria). There are tests that can be done to check for this disorder.)
- Water deprivation test. This test confirms the diagnosis and helps determine the cause of diabetes insipidus. Under medical supervision, you'll be asked to stop drinking fluids for a time so that your doctor can measure changes in your body weight, urine output and the concentration of your urine and blood when fluids are withheld. (this is likely a method your vet will NOT choose unless your pig can be slowly rehydrated at their office to prevent the water deprivation/salt toxicity aftereffect.
Your doctor may also measure blood levels of ADH or administer synthetic ADH during this test. The water deprivation test is performed under close supervision in children and pregnant women to make sure no more than 5 percent of body weight is lost during the test. - Urinalysis. Urinalysis is the physical and chemical examination of urine. If your urine is less concentrated — meaning the amount of water is high relative to other excreted substances — it could be due to diabetes insipidus.
- Magnetic resonance imaging (MRI). An MRI of the head is a noninvasive procedure that uses a powerful magnetic field and radio waves to construct detailed pictures of brain tissues. Your doctor may want to perform an MRI to look for abnormalities in or near the pituitary gland.
4. UTI (urinary tract infections) can cause pigs to urinate in unusual spots as well as hormone driven issues.
You can easily collect a urine sample using a soup ladle mid-stream and place in a clean container. Refrigerate if its not immediately taken in for testing. The fresher the urine, the more accurate your result will be. Keep in mind, some pigs will alter their routine because they have an infection, some pigs are being defiant and some pigs just prefer to potty outside. A change in habits doesn't mean your pig is sick, it means you need to be aware that this is a possibility.
Safe and appropriate litter choices for pet pigs
Acceptable safe litters and potty alternatives for Piggies: Pine shavings (although, pine also has been reported to have similar risks as cedar recently) and pellets, paper litters (pelleted paper, shredded paper or newspaper), Pee pads (washable), wee-wee pads, grass pads and good ole fashion dirt.
Cedar is NEVER safe for our Piggies or humans for that matter. Cedar chips and sawdust will mix with urine to form a gas that can cause pneumonia, ingesting it can obviously cause an obstruction or irritation to the digestive tract and cedar can contain a mold that causes liver failure although the chips themselves do not. Avoid cedar when choosing whichever you decide to use.
Cat litters have toxic chemicals in them. The litters also clog up the nasal passages and if ingested can cause Duodenum and Intestinal blockages.
You do need to watch your Piggies with the wood pellets as they will snack on them. If they ingest too many it could be a health hazard. (The wood pellets swell when they get wet and can cause intestinal obstruction) If your Piggie has proper nutrition they should have little need for an overconsumption of wood pellets. They usually just snack on a few when fresh pellets are added to the box. (scroll down for additional examples)
Cedar is NEVER safe for our Piggies or humans for that matter. Cedar chips and sawdust will mix with urine to form a gas that can cause pneumonia, ingesting it can obviously cause an obstruction or irritation to the digestive tract and cedar can contain a mold that causes liver failure although the chips themselves do not. Avoid cedar when choosing whichever you decide to use.
Cat litters have toxic chemicals in them. The litters also clog up the nasal passages and if ingested can cause Duodenum and Intestinal blockages.
You do need to watch your Piggies with the wood pellets as they will snack on them. If they ingest too many it could be a health hazard. (The wood pellets swell when they get wet and can cause intestinal obstruction) If your Piggie has proper nutrition they should have little need for an overconsumption of wood pellets. They usually just snack on a few when fresh pellets are added to the box. (scroll down for additional examples)
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Designated Potty ARea
Even though you may not realize it, it is important to be clear and concise with your pig. Designating a specific area as "the potty place" can let your pig know your expectations and also make clean up much easier. As you learn your pigs potty habits, you can also be on the lookout for lack or urination or defecation prompting you to intervene much earlier using these subtle signs that something might be wrong.
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You can always make your own less elaborate potty space.