Seasonal Issues-Spring/Fall
As many of you already know, seasonal changes bring questions and safety issues for our beloved pet pigs. Summertime can lead to heat strokes while winter time can lead to freezing temperatures and inadequate housing. We will start with summertime here in this section.
Pigs need a place to cool down because they do not sweat like people do in order to control their body temperature. Pigs do have one area that will "sweat" and that is their snout. It will look like a runny nose, and could be, but if it's hot outside and you see this, your pig is hot and needs to cool off. Any "sweating" your pig does isn't enough to regulate or reduce their core body temperature, so the only ways they have to cool off is what you provide them. Kiddie pools work for many, while making them a mud pit works for others. Mud is helpful because it protects their skin from being burned and also from irritating insects. Any color pig can get sunburn, but pink pigs are at a higher risk of developing melanoma, a type of skin cancer without proper protection from the sun. (more information about melanoma below) You need to check on your pig frequently for signs/symptoms of distress. Limit exercise for older, obese and medically complex pigs on really hot days and also don't allow them to over eat when its super hot outside. Much like humans, when these things are done, it is just miserable. Overeating can exacerbate heat stroke symptoms because of the body's natural digestion process generating heat while processing all the food.
Sunblock is essential for pigs, especially those that don't have access to an area to wallow like an area with mud. You can use a rub on block or a spray on type. Either is sufficient, but typically in my experience, they don't really like either one. If you start doing this when they're young, they are less likely to oppose as they get bigger and stronger. If your pig is an inside pig that gets bathed frequently, you are removing the dirt buildup that protects their skin from the outside elements too. Ticks will attach to the soft areas on pigs and biting flies will bite them. Advantage or Frontline plus has been approved by my vet to be used as tick control. She asked that I ensure the weight class is restrictions apply to pigs as well. Hosing a pig down on a hot summer day will NOT hurt your pig. There are a lot of pigs that don't care for the water, but if its especially hot outside, they can and sometimes will overheat and this can cause a heat stroke and death. Making sure they have fresh water and a shaded area is paramount to their survival. If you have an outside enclosure, that should be sufficient, if not, you can use a patio umbrella to give them an area that's shaded. I'm in the process of building an outside piggy palace for my pig and it will have electricity as well as air conditioning and heat, but that's going to be quite pricey. As long as you cover the basics, your pig should thrive in any environment you provide for them given you make sure take in account for weather changes. There are a lot that have indoor/outdoor pigs. Bringing them from one extreme temperature to another can lead to other complications/illnesses, so try to be consistent. Dippity pig syndrome is more common in the spring and summer months. It is thought that excessive sun exposure is one of the triggers. Click here to read more about dippity pig syndrome.
Pigs need a place to cool down because they do not sweat like people do in order to control their body temperature. Pigs do have one area that will "sweat" and that is their snout. It will look like a runny nose, and could be, but if it's hot outside and you see this, your pig is hot and needs to cool off. Any "sweating" your pig does isn't enough to regulate or reduce their core body temperature, so the only ways they have to cool off is what you provide them. Kiddie pools work for many, while making them a mud pit works for others. Mud is helpful because it protects their skin from being burned and also from irritating insects. Any color pig can get sunburn, but pink pigs are at a higher risk of developing melanoma, a type of skin cancer without proper protection from the sun. (more information about melanoma below) You need to check on your pig frequently for signs/symptoms of distress. Limit exercise for older, obese and medically complex pigs on really hot days and also don't allow them to over eat when its super hot outside. Much like humans, when these things are done, it is just miserable. Overeating can exacerbate heat stroke symptoms because of the body's natural digestion process generating heat while processing all the food.
Sunblock is essential for pigs, especially those that don't have access to an area to wallow like an area with mud. You can use a rub on block or a spray on type. Either is sufficient, but typically in my experience, they don't really like either one. If you start doing this when they're young, they are less likely to oppose as they get bigger and stronger. If your pig is an inside pig that gets bathed frequently, you are removing the dirt buildup that protects their skin from the outside elements too. Ticks will attach to the soft areas on pigs and biting flies will bite them. Advantage or Frontline plus has been approved by my vet to be used as tick control. She asked that I ensure the weight class is restrictions apply to pigs as well. Hosing a pig down on a hot summer day will NOT hurt your pig. There are a lot of pigs that don't care for the water, but if its especially hot outside, they can and sometimes will overheat and this can cause a heat stroke and death. Making sure they have fresh water and a shaded area is paramount to their survival. If you have an outside enclosure, that should be sufficient, if not, you can use a patio umbrella to give them an area that's shaded. I'm in the process of building an outside piggy palace for my pig and it will have electricity as well as air conditioning and heat, but that's going to be quite pricey. As long as you cover the basics, your pig should thrive in any environment you provide for them given you make sure take in account for weather changes. There are a lot that have indoor/outdoor pigs. Bringing them from one extreme temperature to another can lead to other complications/illnesses, so try to be consistent. Dippity pig syndrome is more common in the spring and summer months. It is thought that excessive sun exposure is one of the triggers. Click here to read more about dippity pig syndrome.
Mini Pig: Blowing Their Coat
Mini Pig Hair Loss
Pigs typically "blow their coats" in the spring/summer time although some mini pigs will blow their coat during the colder months too. Some mini pigs will go completely bald while others simply thin out their hair. There have been pigs that blew their coats twice a year, some may skip a year, while other families notice a delay in the annual blowing of the coat. The coat blowing process has a time frame which varies from pig to pig and region to region. Expect this to happen over weeks or possibly even months, depending on your particular pig. Most pigs do NOT blow their coat their first year of life, but as usual, not all pigs follow this general rule. You will know your pig is blowing its' coat because when you go to pet them you will see lots of hair falling to the ground, often by the handful. Sometimes a pig just laying on the floor will leave a pile of hair behind. This is normal. There are so many questions every single year about this and a lot of panicked pig parents who grow concerned over their follically challenged porcine pal, but 9/10 times, there is nothing to be concerned about.
There are some other issues that can also cause the hair to fall out, such as nutritional deficiencies, but if it is the spring time and you're seeing pig hair (everywhere), odds are, your pig is simply blowing its' coat and you do not need to be super concerned. If your pig is only missing hair around the eyes, or patches of hair is missing, this can mean something different and the medical/nutritional possibilities need to be ruled out before you assume it's the seasonal blowing of the coat.
There are some other issues that can also cause the hair to fall out, such as nutritional deficiencies, but if it is the spring time and you're seeing pig hair (everywhere), odds are, your pig is simply blowing its' coat and you do not need to be super concerned. If your pig is only missing hair around the eyes, or patches of hair is missing, this can mean something different and the medical/nutritional possibilities need to be ruled out before you assume it's the seasonal blowing of the coat.
Photosensitivity- Some pigs have access to certain flowers/weeds that cause a reaction to excessive sun exposure. This occurs in outdoor pigs or pigs that spend any length of time outdoors, that have been in contact with substances that make the skin sensitive to ultra violet radiation. These include alfalfa, clover, rape, lucerne and a fungus that grows at the base of grass in dry weather, pythomyces charterum. Certain medicines, in particular tetracyclines and sulphonamides can also have a similar affect following prolonged use. The disease is characterised by a reddening or erythema over the white areas that are exposed to sunlight. The affected surfaces are damaged and become coagulated with serum followed by secondary bacterial infection and eventually a thick crust is formed. These changes cause a considerable amount of pain and affected animals should be moved indoors and if necessary given broad spectrum long-acting antibiotic treatment by injections. Sometimes these areas look like they have been burned badly, check your yard for plants that may cause this photosensitivity. You can read more about what toxins may be hiding in your yard by clicking here. The list of plants is at the bottom of the page.
Hydration is one of the most important aspects to keep your pig safe and healthy during the hotter months. A lot of people have difficulty in getting their pig to drink enough water, I have also experienced this myself. One method to entice you pig to drink more is to add juice to the water to make it tastier for your pig child. I have found that the flavored water drops typically used for bottled water is a great way to flavor the water using less sugar and some have zero calories (like Dasani flavored water drops). The brand isn't of importance, but the sugar and caloric intake is. Just keep in mind that once you start adding flavor to the water, whether that be natural fruit juice or flavored water drops, your pig will likely expect this until the end of time and may turn his/her nose up at plain water. So do NOT use anything if you do not need to. I've also found adding ice to the water causes my pig to drink additional water, se really likes ice. In order to get her in her pool to cool off, I add Cheerios (because they float) or grapes to make sure she uses the pool. The same can be done for the water bowls. One additional thing I've found that works and is relatively inexpensive is buying the "chilly willy" or ice pops that you buy in a clear plastic tube in a liquid form and freeze. Once frozen, it serves as something that can help cool,them down on super hot days, but more importantly, it also provides hydration for a pig that isn't a big water drinker. Plain water is best, and if you start adding flavoring to the water to entice more drinking, be prepared to do this forever. They will remember the taste and sometimes refuse plain water causing an even bigger concern for their health. Dehydration leads to multiple other problems with pigs including kidney issues, UTI's (urinary tract infections) as well as constipation that can be further complicated by bowel obstructions. So please make sure your pig is drinking enough water.
Hydration is one of the most important aspects to keep your pig safe and healthy during the hotter months. A lot of people have difficulty in getting their pig to drink enough water, I have also experienced this myself. One method to entice you pig to drink more is to add juice to the water to make it tastier for your pig child. I have found that the flavored water drops typically used for bottled water is a great way to flavor the water using less sugar and some have zero calories (like Dasani flavored water drops). The brand isn't of importance, but the sugar and caloric intake is. Just keep in mind that once you start adding flavor to the water, whether that be natural fruit juice or flavored water drops, your pig will likely expect this until the end of time and may turn his/her nose up at plain water. So do NOT use anything if you do not need to. I've also found adding ice to the water causes my pig to drink additional water, se really likes ice. In order to get her in her pool to cool off, I add Cheerios (because they float) or grapes to make sure she uses the pool. The same can be done for the water bowls. One additional thing I've found that works and is relatively inexpensive is buying the "chilly willy" or ice pops that you buy in a clear plastic tube in a liquid form and freeze. Once frozen, it serves as something that can help cool,them down on super hot days, but more importantly, it also provides hydration for a pig that isn't a big water drinker. Plain water is best, and if you start adding flavoring to the water to entice more drinking, be prepared to do this forever. They will remember the taste and sometimes refuse plain water causing an even bigger concern for their health. Dehydration leads to multiple other problems with pigs including kidney issues, UTI's (urinary tract infections) as well as constipation that can be further complicated by bowel obstructions. So please make sure your pig is drinking enough water.

These flavored water drops can be bought at most grocery stores. The Dasani brand specifically has zero calories and uses natural fruit to flavor the water. A few drops go a long way. However, they do add artificial sweeteners to these and that isn't good for people or pigs. The small amount you use to flavor a bowl of water shouldn't cause any issues, but natural fruit juices are better for long term.
Biofilm-slimy substance in water bowls/pools
The importance of water goes beyond what you may think. Click here to read why water is so important to pigs. Everything has a "shelf life", so to speak. So yes, water can go bad. Another problem with water is the hidden dangers you may not be aware of.
Have you ever rubbed your fingers on the inside of your pigs’ water dish and it was slimy? The slimy stuff that coats the side of your pet’s water bowls (and sometimes even floats around on top) is called “biofilm”. Biofilm is a collection of organic and inorganic, living and dead materials collect on a surface. It is made up of many different types of bacteria bound together in a thick substance, forming a glue like consistency and adhere to a surface. Other places that you might’ve seen biofilm are on your shower curtain and even in your own mouth! Many pet parents are guilty of simply refilling the water bowl over and over without a wash and this becomes a wonderful environment for biofilm to soak around in.
Since biofilm can develop on a surface in just hours, wash your pet’s food bowl after every meal and his water bowl twice a day. If your pet spends time outside, you should have a water bowl in your yard. You might need to clean that dish even more frequently, especially in hot weather, which provides a perfect environment for algae and bacteria to grow. This biofilm will also sometimes cause your pet to shy away from the water dish causing dehydration issues such as constipation or electrolyte imbalances. As we know with pigs, lack of water causes a systemic reaction and can really do some damage in a short amount of time. This film will also grow inside the kiddie pools we typically keep out in the summer months for our precious pet pigs. So that will need to be dumped and cleaned routinely as well.
When biofilm is introduced into your pet’s system, it can cause urinary tract, bladder and ear infections, so it’s something to consider, when thinking about the health and safety of your pets. If you wouldn’t drink water from a glass that has been sitting for a week having never been washed out during that time, why would you expect that to be ok for your pig? The good news is that with proper cleanliness, you can reduce the chance of biofilm in your pet’s system, keeping your pet happily hydrated and biofilm-free.
Proper cleaning of bowls
Generally, you should to wash your pig’s food and water bowls after every use. While this may seem excessive, imagine treating yourself the same way and eating every meal out of an unwashed dish. Once again, gross! If you haven’t been cleaning your pig’s food and water bowls regularly, it’s never too late to start. On cheaper bowls made of plastic, it’s not uncommon to find mold growth if you’ve let them sit out long enough. It’s time to throw those bowls out and buy new bowls for a fresh start. You’ll want to use a cloth or sponge that is only used for your pig’s bowls. Dish soap, water and some elbow grease, along with a thorough rinse, will get the bowls clean. If your pig’s bowls are stainless steel, you can clean them in the same manner but avoid harsh chemicals and antibacterial products to prevent rusting. Running them through a cycle in the dishwasher is also an excellent way to keep your pig’s food and water bowls clean. When it comes to sanitizing pig bowls, the dishwasher wins. While hand washing with soap and hot water certainly will get the bowls clean, the dishwasher takes it a step further. Most bacteria that get collected on the bowls require scalding hot water at 140° Fahrenheit to fully remove and kill it. If you try to attempt to wash your pig’s bowls by hand at this temperature you’ll get burned. Don a couple of pairs of rubber gloves if you’re sans dishwasher, and crank that hot water! Remember to inspect your pig’s bowls for scratches. Deep scratches can be a home for bacteria that can make your pig sick. Replace your pig’s food and water bowls when necessary to keep your pig healthy and happy.
Have you ever rubbed your fingers on the inside of your pigs’ water dish and it was slimy? The slimy stuff that coats the side of your pet’s water bowls (and sometimes even floats around on top) is called “biofilm”. Biofilm is a collection of organic and inorganic, living and dead materials collect on a surface. It is made up of many different types of bacteria bound together in a thick substance, forming a glue like consistency and adhere to a surface. Other places that you might’ve seen biofilm are on your shower curtain and even in your own mouth! Many pet parents are guilty of simply refilling the water bowl over and over without a wash and this becomes a wonderful environment for biofilm to soak around in.
Since biofilm can develop on a surface in just hours, wash your pet’s food bowl after every meal and his water bowl twice a day. If your pet spends time outside, you should have a water bowl in your yard. You might need to clean that dish even more frequently, especially in hot weather, which provides a perfect environment for algae and bacteria to grow. This biofilm will also sometimes cause your pet to shy away from the water dish causing dehydration issues such as constipation or electrolyte imbalances. As we know with pigs, lack of water causes a systemic reaction and can really do some damage in a short amount of time. This film will also grow inside the kiddie pools we typically keep out in the summer months for our precious pet pigs. So that will need to be dumped and cleaned routinely as well.
When biofilm is introduced into your pet’s system, it can cause urinary tract, bladder and ear infections, so it’s something to consider, when thinking about the health and safety of your pets. If you wouldn’t drink water from a glass that has been sitting for a week having never been washed out during that time, why would you expect that to be ok for your pig? The good news is that with proper cleanliness, you can reduce the chance of biofilm in your pet’s system, keeping your pet happily hydrated and biofilm-free.
Proper cleaning of bowls
Generally, you should to wash your pig’s food and water bowls after every use. While this may seem excessive, imagine treating yourself the same way and eating every meal out of an unwashed dish. Once again, gross! If you haven’t been cleaning your pig’s food and water bowls regularly, it’s never too late to start. On cheaper bowls made of plastic, it’s not uncommon to find mold growth if you’ve let them sit out long enough. It’s time to throw those bowls out and buy new bowls for a fresh start. You’ll want to use a cloth or sponge that is only used for your pig’s bowls. Dish soap, water and some elbow grease, along with a thorough rinse, will get the bowls clean. If your pig’s bowls are stainless steel, you can clean them in the same manner but avoid harsh chemicals and antibacterial products to prevent rusting. Running them through a cycle in the dishwasher is also an excellent way to keep your pig’s food and water bowls clean. When it comes to sanitizing pig bowls, the dishwasher wins. While hand washing with soap and hot water certainly will get the bowls clean, the dishwasher takes it a step further. Most bacteria that get collected on the bowls require scalding hot water at 140° Fahrenheit to fully remove and kill it. If you try to attempt to wash your pig’s bowls by hand at this temperature you’ll get burned. Don a couple of pairs of rubber gloves if you’re sans dishwasher, and crank that hot water! Remember to inspect your pig’s bowls for scratches. Deep scratches can be a home for bacteria that can make your pig sick. Replace your pig’s food and water bowls when necessary to keep your pig healthy and happy.
Ensure there is a fresh water source at ALL times
How do you make sure you pig has fresh water all the time? This is especially important for those pigs who tend to dump their water bowls out. Keep a kiddie pool out with fresh water or create some kind of automatic watering system using a watering nipple. These automatic waterers can be bought on Amazon.com or at Tractor Supply Stores.
Water deprivation/Salt toxicity/Salt poisoning/Psychogenic water consumption
WATER….WATER…..WATER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Although a certain amount of sodium in the body is needed for it to function properly, too much can cause serious issues in pigs.
My pig will not drink water! We hear this many times. Here are a few suggestions to change this….
My pig will drink water, BUT, the bowls are always empty.
My pig will not drink water! We hear this many times. Here are a few suggestions to change this….
- Change the type of water you offer them. Get one of those filtration pitchers or some bottled water. If they drink that, I would suggest you change the water you drink as well.
- Add a bit of juice to the water, as small of an amount as possible, which they will still drink. Juices, like apple, pineapple, or grape are always a hit, but you must take into consideration the amount of sugar and adjust the overall diet as necessary. Juices like lemon, cranberry, or orange are wonderful because they are also acidic and are great for the overall health of the pig. The same adjustments must be made to the overall diet. You can also try the flavored water drops designed for bottled water, most are calorie free. (The flavored water drops can be used in small amounts but typically contain an artificial sweetener which isn't good for people or pigs, however, the super small amount used shouldn't cause any issues)
- Put food into the water, but again, adjust the overall diet for the increased calories if necessary. You can float cheerios or some other such cereal. You can dice carrots and toss them in.
- Feed vegetables that are high in water content. Cucumbers, celery (if they will eat it), or romaine lettuce (NEVER iceberg, too much cellulous) are some good choices.
- In the summer months, freezes fruits and veggies into ice and give them as treats. Again, adjust the overall diet for the increase in calories if needed.
- Ensure the water or water bowl isn't dirty. Pigs will turn up their nose to water that is gross or smells bad. Biofilm can accumulate in a dirty water dish also and can cause your pig to avoid drinking out of it. (the biofilm itself can also cause problems)
- Soak pellets to increase hydration/water intake. Soaking them has a couple of benefits, 1. It causes them to swell allowing your pigs belly to feel fuller faster versus having to rely on them drinking water to get them to that state and 2. Obviously, this provides additional water in their diet.
- Psychogenic water consumption- Pigs with this condition consume far more water than is required for normal body maintenance. Boredom may lead to psychogenic water consumption. Other causes of increased water consumption, such as cystitis or other urinary tract diseases should also be checked. To do this, your veterinarian can test your pig's urine both before and after a 12-hour water fast. Young pigs usually outgrow this condition. In some cases, water is restricted and offered only with meals. If this treatment is used, care must be taken to prevent salt poisoning
- Diabetes insipidus- Diabetes insipidus has nothing to do with the type 1 and type 2 diabetes related to blood sugar. Diabetes insipidus (DI) is a disorder that is caused by an imbalance of a hormone called vasopressin which is secreted by the pituitary gland, which controls kidney function. The person or animal will experience excessive thirst and the production of a large amount of urine. An electrolyte imbalance is almost always associated with diabetes insipidus. The minerals, sodium, calcium and potassium are three forms of electrolytes that are part of the internal pump that maintains fluid balance within the body. When these electrolytes get out of balance, physical symptoms of fatigue, body aches and pains will manifest. The urine output related to diabetes insipidus can range from 0.5 gallons per day to 3 or more gallons per day, depending on the severity of the disorder. Your vet can check blood work to see if this is a possibility.
My pig will drink water, BUT, the bowls are always empty.
- Use tip proof bowls, if your pigs are outside and they tip over anything you try to use.
- Get a kiddie pool and make sure there is fresh water put in there everyday.
- If your pigs bowl is frequently empty when you return home, get a bigger bowl.
- Keep several sources of water available for the pig and this will help to ensure that your pig is getting enough water during the day. Have several bowls scattered throughout your yard, if you need to, so there is easy access to fresh water at all times.
- Put the water in a container sunk into the ground so that the pigs can't crush or smash it up.
- Or put the water in a container sunk into the ground so that the pigs can't crush or smash it up.
- Use a watering system like those pictured above that require your pig to use a watering nipple to drink unlimited water.
Jenn Namm Allen shared her brilliant water bowl secret...concrete! Pig parents have to be creative sometimes and this is a GREAT idea. Mix concrete as the bag tells you and add that to the underside of the water bowl of your choosing. Allow it to dry and harden and then you have a water bowl that takes a lot more energy to "flip" over. This will not necessarily eliminate the possibility because a determined pig will find a way to tip it over, but this will definitely help. We also wrote a blog with regards to creating a tip proof water source for your pig which can be read by clicking here.
Possibilities of repairmen contaminating the ground

Do you have a pool? Do you service your pool yourself or do you hire a company to maintain your pool? A situation recently came to light at a friends home...the company overused chemicals and had to vacuum the pool afterwards. What did they do with the chemicals that they vacuumed out of the pool? Threw them on the ground!!! Luckily, these pig parents saw it and as of today, trying to wash them away from the ground/spoil, but how many of us hire repairmen or service people that don't know what they do with excess chemicals? I am sure they didn't follow the proper protocol for disposal of the chemicals, but nonetheless, the pigs would've suffered if they had been let out, as usual, and went to that area of the yard where these irresponsible people dumped chemicals from the pool. This type of situation could likely happen to any of us. If you have an outside appliance like an air conditioning unit and someone comes to service it, there may be chemicals that leak and saturate the ground. Something to be aware of anyways. Never ignore the possibilities and always inspect the area BEFORE letting your pig(s) out to be sure it's safe for them. Same thing applies to cars that may be leaking antifreeze, air condition repairmen, etc. ALWAYS check the ground area where your pig may be napping, grazing, rooting or playing in.
Nitrate Toxicity?
Have you considered nitrate toxicity? This is more of a problem during droughts only in certain types of grass. Nonetheless, still something to be aware of. http://www.agweb.com/article/nitrate-toxicity-in-summer-grasses-naa-university/
Reducing the Risk for Heat Related Tragedies
Every summer, tragedy strikes with the heat. Once, while we were at the vets on a hot day, three calls came in for overheated pigs. Sadly, one did not survive. At our sanctuary with 150 pigs, we have had some pigs overheat from mild fence fighting with each other or from going out too far into the pasture when it was cool and then having a difficult time getting back when it became much hotter outside. Pigs will stay in houses because it is what they are used to - even when the heat becomes deadly. Mud holes or pools not in the shade will become too hot as well. Pigs have been found dead in their hot mud holes. As smart as they are, their stubbornness to stick to a routine can be their demise.
• provide shade to any outdoor pig. Even if they are only out for a few minutes. Pigs in barns will often need a fan. A misting fan can be a lifesaver.
• all pigs can overheat but heavy pigs may not be able to withstand even a small amount of exertion on a hot day. Limit their activity or leave them inside with AC.
• medically comprised pigs may have even more difficulty regulating temps and may overheat while others are fine. We have had pigs overheat in the car at night with the AC on full blast while transporting to vet. Humidity is a huge factor.
• cover any mud holes or pools with shade such as a shade structure.
• if pig does become overheated, cool immediately by providing cool water or mud holes, running water from hose, rubbing alcohol on the hooves, a misting fan or just a fan, bags of frozen peas behind ears, underarms, under back legs. Pack them with items that are cold. Cool water enemas can lower core temp. Regardless of the method used to cool them down, it can take a long time to recover.
• if hosing with cool water, you may want to start on legs and get them gradually used to the water.
If you have outdoor pigs, please check on them frequently. These things can happen quickly and if they do, minutes matter.
Written by Lorelei Pullman of Ranger's Refuge At Gallastar (Pig Rescue in Northern Virginia)
• provide shade to any outdoor pig. Even if they are only out for a few minutes. Pigs in barns will often need a fan. A misting fan can be a lifesaver.
• all pigs can overheat but heavy pigs may not be able to withstand even a small amount of exertion on a hot day. Limit their activity or leave them inside with AC.
• medically comprised pigs may have even more difficulty regulating temps and may overheat while others are fine. We have had pigs overheat in the car at night with the AC on full blast while transporting to vet. Humidity is a huge factor.
• cover any mud holes or pools with shade such as a shade structure.
• if pig does become overheated, cool immediately by providing cool water or mud holes, running water from hose, rubbing alcohol on the hooves, a misting fan or just a fan, bags of frozen peas behind ears, underarms, under back legs. Pack them with items that are cold. Cool water enemas can lower core temp. Regardless of the method used to cool them down, it can take a long time to recover.
• if hosing with cool water, you may want to start on legs and get them gradually used to the water.
If you have outdoor pigs, please check on them frequently. These things can happen quickly and if they do, minutes matter.
Written by Lorelei Pullman of Ranger's Refuge At Gallastar (Pig Rescue in Northern Virginia)
Overheating
Creating a misting type system for your pig(s)
This can be relatively easy to do. It will require some work on your part and depending on how large of an area you'd like to cover, it can be expensive as well. BUT, there are "misting" systems, such as the one pictured below, that can be purchased at a relatively low price and installed yourself. You can also purchase a sprinkler that can achieve the same results.
How to recognize your pig may be in distress from being overheated/heat stroke

Without sweat glands, pigs cool down by laying on the cool ground, laying in mud holes or taking a dip in a kiddie pool. But when your pig becomes overheated, this may not be effective. Overheating can cause your pig to pant rapidly and excessively, drool thick, rope like saliva, the eyes may have a glazed over look to them and obviously may be excessively thirsty. His gums may become very dry and even a bit crispy from dehydration. As the condition progresses, the gums and tongue, and often the delicate skin around the eyes, will turn dark pink or bright red. His skin may very warm to the touch, the body temperature may be elevated, your pig may vomit or have bloody diarrhea. He may have a worried and anxious look on his face; after all, he is in distress. As the pig becomes hotter, he may become weak and stumble or even collapse or start having seizures. At this point, your pig's life is in jeopardy. If there should ever come a time when your pig is "panting", that is an emergency and needs to be handled as such. Pigs don't pant to help bring their core body temperature down and it isn't an effective way for them to cool down either.
Breed and Age Considerations- Short-nose animals in general have a more difficult time cooling the air through their nasal cavity and are considered to be inefficient panters. Pigs have a relatively small lung capacity and some pigs will large bellies are especially at risk for overheating. Be extra diligent about keeping your pig as cool as possible on hot days. Owners of very young or old pigs are also most susceptible to overheating. You will need to ensure these pigs have a spot to cool down like a shaded area or structure with a fan.
Prevention- Pigs need fresh, clean water at all times to keep cool and comfy in warm weather. As the heat spikes during the day, so does your pig's demand for water. If you must keep your pig outside, provide shelter and shade for both your pig and the water bowl, and secure the bowl to prevent it from getting knocked over. Many love to swim or wade in water; keep a kiddie pool or tub filled with clean water in the pig's play area -- it can help your pig chill out on a toasty day. Ensure this cooling off area is also in the shade to the water doesn't get hot. Exercise your pig in the cool early hours of the day or late at night when temperatures drop. Most importantly, never leave your pig in the car on a warm day. Outside temperatures may be 80 degrees, but the temperature inside the car -- even with the windows cracked -- can reach 100 degrees or more in a short period of time. A good rule of thumb is temperatures over 90 degrees can be dangerous for any animal to stay outside when they're not acclimated to that kind of weather.
Treatment- If your pig is suffering from being overheated, get him out of the sun and into shade or an air-conditioned room immediately. The Association for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals advises owners to soak towels in cool water and place them over the animal's back, or soak the pet in a tub filled with cool water. Do not immerse your pig in ice water, as this can lead to shock. As soon as the pig begins to cool down, rush him to the vet. You can put alcohol on the hooves, use a bag of frozen peas in the groin and neck areas area and wrap the legs in cool damp cloths as well to attempt to cool the core temperature to a manageable level. Hydrating them super quick can overwhelm the neurological system, drinking large amounts of water very rapidly can cause swelling in the brain, seizures and ultimately death as well. So be sure fresh water is always accessible to your pig to avoid these kind of complications altogether.
Complications from overheating can quickly turn into heat exhaustion or heatstroke. Symptoms of serious heat-related illness include lethargy, extreme panting, disorientation, profuse salivation or vomiting, seizures and unconsciousness. Organs can shut down and blood may fail to clot. See your veterinarian immediately, as this condition is an absolute emergency. Heatstroke can be fatal.
Breed and Age Considerations- Short-nose animals in general have a more difficult time cooling the air through their nasal cavity and are considered to be inefficient panters. Pigs have a relatively small lung capacity and some pigs will large bellies are especially at risk for overheating. Be extra diligent about keeping your pig as cool as possible on hot days. Owners of very young or old pigs are also most susceptible to overheating. You will need to ensure these pigs have a spot to cool down like a shaded area or structure with a fan.
Prevention- Pigs need fresh, clean water at all times to keep cool and comfy in warm weather. As the heat spikes during the day, so does your pig's demand for water. If you must keep your pig outside, provide shelter and shade for both your pig and the water bowl, and secure the bowl to prevent it from getting knocked over. Many love to swim or wade in water; keep a kiddie pool or tub filled with clean water in the pig's play area -- it can help your pig chill out on a toasty day. Ensure this cooling off area is also in the shade to the water doesn't get hot. Exercise your pig in the cool early hours of the day or late at night when temperatures drop. Most importantly, never leave your pig in the car on a warm day. Outside temperatures may be 80 degrees, but the temperature inside the car -- even with the windows cracked -- can reach 100 degrees or more in a short period of time. A good rule of thumb is temperatures over 90 degrees can be dangerous for any animal to stay outside when they're not acclimated to that kind of weather.
Treatment- If your pig is suffering from being overheated, get him out of the sun and into shade or an air-conditioned room immediately. The Association for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals advises owners to soak towels in cool water and place them over the animal's back, or soak the pet in a tub filled with cool water. Do not immerse your pig in ice water, as this can lead to shock. As soon as the pig begins to cool down, rush him to the vet. You can put alcohol on the hooves, use a bag of frozen peas in the groin and neck areas area and wrap the legs in cool damp cloths as well to attempt to cool the core temperature to a manageable level. Hydrating them super quick can overwhelm the neurological system, drinking large amounts of water very rapidly can cause swelling in the brain, seizures and ultimately death as well. So be sure fresh water is always accessible to your pig to avoid these kind of complications altogether.
Complications from overheating can quickly turn into heat exhaustion or heatstroke. Symptoms of serious heat-related illness include lethargy, extreme panting, disorientation, profuse salivation or vomiting, seizures and unconsciousness. Organs can shut down and blood may fail to clot. See your veterinarian immediately, as this condition is an absolute emergency. Heatstroke can be fatal.
There are smaller AC/heating units that can easily be used for smaller structures like piggy houses that can help keep your pig cool in the summer and warm in the winter. these units are smaller than the average household unit, but large enough to keep a small pet house heated and cooled. They range from about 300.00 and up and can be found online. http://www.climaterightair.com/applications/outdoor-dog-house-air-conditioner-and-heater.html
We have a separate section on the website about house design, click here to read more about outside housing ideas.
We have a separate section on the website about house design, click here to read more about outside housing ideas.
Feed Storage
A situation unique to the warmer months is insects in poorly stored pig feed. There are grain mites that can contaminate bags of feed stored in hot areas. While these insects likely won't "harm" your pig, it is still gross to feed a pig pelleted feed with insects crawling around. Weevil infestations can actually spread to your food at home, so buy feed from stores that have proper storage capabilities and ALWAYS check the food before feeding it to your pig for signs of bugs OR mold. You can read more about moldy/spoiled feed by clicking here. The document below discusses the mites in the feed and suggestions for stores and warehouses to have a storage plan in place. If your pelleted feed has small holes in it as the above picture does, then your bag of feed likely has grain mites.

mites_in_feed.pdf |
What is NOT unique to the warmer months is poorly stored feed in general. When feed is put in the freezer and then thawed to use on an as need basis, this allows moisture to build that can cause mold. Moldy food has its' own set of problems, but moisture overall causes mold which can lead to illness. Click here to read more about spoiled/moldy feed and how to prevent it.
Frozen treats for hot days
There are easy to make treats to help your pig stay cool in the hotter weather as well. Any fruit can be frozen inside ice and made into a yummy treat that will help them cool down. You can also use a larger scale version of a treat, more like an ice block with something yummy inside tied with a rope and hanging down for your pig to enjoy throughout the day. Not only does this give your pig something fun to do, your pig is also rewarded with a treat once all the ice has melted. I suggest using fruit, but the possibilities are endless. These same "ice treats" can be tossed in water bowls to help keep the water cooler for longer periods of time. Below you will find examples of these homemade treats that any pig will love on a hot summer day. You can also add cube sizes to water bowls and/or pools to keep the water cooler and give them something fun to do.
Pigs and Ticks
Click here to read our blog: Ticks and Mini Pigs.
Pigs can and do get ticks. During the hotter months when ticks are prevalent , a daily inspection should be done to ensure immediate removal of any visible parasite that may be feasting on your pig. Ticks carry the bacteria that Lyme's disease consists of. There are two different types of ticks that carry Lyme's disease. That is the deer tick and the Western black legged tick. The two look similar to each other, but they are two different types. My vet has ok'd the use of Frontline plus or Advantage plus for tick control, but asked that I use with caution, paying special attention to the weight recommendations, to avoid overdosing. (Please consult with your vet before using any products designed for another species of animal) Diatomeacous Earth (food grade) can be spread on the ground outside, added to the feed or you can dust your pig with it. (It does tend to dry the skin, so i would limit using it that way if possible.) There are different grades of DE. Please be sure to get food grade and not industrial. They have different uses and food grade is the only one safe for consumption. http://diatomaceous.org/food-grade-diatomaceous-earth
Pigs can and do get ticks. During the hotter months when ticks are prevalent , a daily inspection should be done to ensure immediate removal of any visible parasite that may be feasting on your pig. Ticks carry the bacteria that Lyme's disease consists of. There are two different types of ticks that carry Lyme's disease. That is the deer tick and the Western black legged tick. The two look similar to each other, but they are two different types. My vet has ok'd the use of Frontline plus or Advantage plus for tick control, but asked that I use with caution, paying special attention to the weight recommendations, to avoid overdosing. (Please consult with your vet before using any products designed for another species of animal) Diatomeacous Earth (food grade) can be spread on the ground outside, added to the feed or you can dust your pig with it. (It does tend to dry the skin, so i would limit using it that way if possible.) There are different grades of DE. Please be sure to get food grade and not industrial. They have different uses and food grade is the only one safe for consumption. http://diatomaceous.org/food-grade-diatomaceous-earth
Pigs can contract Lyme's disease, there are several stages to this illness and not all animals or people have symptoms in all the stages. The symptoms can range anywhere from weeks to months, but since Lyme's disease is a multi system illness, there is a multitude of symptoms that can accompany it. Generally, ticks cannot transmit Lyme's disease until they've been attached for at least 36 hours, so doing daily tick checks and removing immediately greatly reduces the chances of your pig contacting Lyme's disease as well. If there is any question whether or not the type go tick that you removed is the type that is a carrier of Lyme’s disease, once its removed, keep it in a plastic baggie and send it off for testing.
Some common symptoms include- flu like symptoms, fever, usually a history of a tick bite, extreme fatigue, rash, neck and back pain, joint pain and swelling. but, this usually happens in stages.
Stage 1- you may have a rash, usually a circular rash that appears to look like a "bulls eye". During this stage, you may also notice a lack of energy or headache or stiff neck. Often times, the first stage is undetectable and there aren't any noticeable symptoms.
Stage 2- symptoms in people include memory loss/problems and weakness in the arms and legs.
Stage 3- symptoms may include swelling and pain (like arthritis) in the joints, the inability to control the facial muscles and numbness or tingling in the hands, feet or back.
**As you can imagine, these symptoms listed above would cause panic in you as a pig parent, and most likely also in your pig. So knowing your pig recently had a tick bite along with those symptoms may indicate the possibility of Lyme's disease. Make sure you know what ticks are a threat in your area and please make sure to check your pig at least daily in order to remove any ticks as soon as possible.
Natural tick repellents are easy to make
Here are a few natural tick repellents you can make at home for yourself and for your pets. You should get a spray bottle (one that holds at least 16 oz) for some of these combinations. (check with your vet before applying to your pig or test a small area for irritation before applying anything all over).
Some common symptoms include- flu like symptoms, fever, usually a history of a tick bite, extreme fatigue, rash, neck and back pain, joint pain and swelling. but, this usually happens in stages.
Stage 1- you may have a rash, usually a circular rash that appears to look like a "bulls eye". During this stage, you may also notice a lack of energy or headache or stiff neck. Often times, the first stage is undetectable and there aren't any noticeable symptoms.
Stage 2- symptoms in people include memory loss/problems and weakness in the arms and legs.
Stage 3- symptoms may include swelling and pain (like arthritis) in the joints, the inability to control the facial muscles and numbness or tingling in the hands, feet or back.
**As you can imagine, these symptoms listed above would cause panic in you as a pig parent, and most likely also in your pig. So knowing your pig recently had a tick bite along with those symptoms may indicate the possibility of Lyme's disease. Make sure you know what ticks are a threat in your area and please make sure to check your pig at least daily in order to remove any ticks as soon as possible.
Natural tick repellents are easy to make
Here are a few natural tick repellents you can make at home for yourself and for your pets. You should get a spray bottle (one that holds at least 16 oz) for some of these combinations. (check with your vet before applying to your pig or test a small area for irritation before applying anything all over).
- In a small container or bowl, combine 4 tablespoons vegetable oil or almond oil, 2 tablespoons aloe vera gel, and 30 to 40 drops geranium essential oil. Mix it well and use an eye dropper to apply the mixture to your skin and rub it in. You can also apply two to three drops to your pig’s harness to repel ticks.
- Make the same combination but use lavender essential oil instead of geranium. You can also use half geranium and half lavender essential oils.
- Combine 1 cup water, ½ cup apple cider vinegar, and 6 to 10 drops of geranium or lavender essential oil in a spray bottle. This tick repellent can be sprayed on clothing, your pet’s hairr, your skin, and your lawn.
- Neem oil is an effective tick repellent for both humans and dogs, but you must use the mixture within 8 hours of preparing it, because the neem oil will lose its potency. First combine 16 ounces of warm water with 2 ml of mild detergent. Slowly add 5 ml of neem oil and stir vigorously. Use the mixture in a spray bottle. This tick repellent can be applied to the skin and to a pet’s hair.
- Another way to use neem is to bring 2 cups of water to a boil and add ½ cup dried neem leaves to the water. Steep the leaves for one hour, then strain off the liquid into a spray bottle. This neem water can be used on clothing, skin, and pets (rub into their fur). Avoid contact with the eyes or ears on pets and yourself.
- Ticks are not fond of citrus, so you can make a citrus tick repellent. Boil 2 cups of water and add any combination of 2 sliced citrus fruits: lemons, limes, oranges, or grapefruit. Allow the mixture to boil for about a minute, then simmer for one hour. Remove the fruit and put the liquid through a strainer. Pour into a spray bottle and use on your skin, your pig’s hair, and on your lawn.
- Combine 16 ounces of water and 20 to 25 crops of peppermint essential oil in a spray bottle and spritz onto clothing, your pig's hair, and your lawn.
How to identify a tick with regions they're abundant
Click here to go to the tick identification site
You can read more about Lyme's disease in animals here.
Lyme's disease in animals
Click here to go to the tick identification site
You can read more about Lyme's disease in animals here.
Lyme's disease in animals
Natural Insect Repellent
It should be noted that you need to test a small area on your pig to check for any allergies or sensitivities to the oils you choose. If, after 24 hours, there is no skin reaction or redness and/or rash, you are likely ok with using on a widespread basis. Pigs can have contact dermatitis just like people can; so always test anything you plan to use in a small area first.
Use any of the following oils: citronella, clove, lavender, peppermint, eucalyptus, lemon, sandalwood. I used lavender, eucalyptus, peppermint, and lemon.
Combine the witch hazel and water in an 8oz spray bottle. Add the essential oils. The easiest way is to add an equal number of drops of each different oil. You can use 30-60 drops total in this recipe. I recommend starting with 30. See how you react to this amount, add more if necessary. (http://www.onegreenplanet.org/diy-natural-insect-repellent)
Other natural mosquito repellents
These are other natural mosquito repellents that are being researched:
Simple Natural Bug Spray
You will need:
A few of our experienced piggy friends share their advice: (I haven't tried any of these myself, but all of these people are experienced pig people.)
Rose P. Brown says :
"I was told by a horse person who uses this recipe on horses...equal parts of (no alcohol) peppermint mouthwash mixed with apple cider vinegar and you can put a few drops of pure vanilla extract in spray bottle and spray on pets to repel mosquitoes."
Kathy Baldwin says:
"I use the horse bug spray, on me too. My Elizabeth Ann went into convulsions after I sprayed her with deep woods off. I didn't make the connection because it was supposed to be safe for children. I called her vet, and she walked me through everything we did prior to to convulsions started. I called the # on the can, and they told me, they could only talk to my vet...ha, she was standing right there. Turns out it is a short term neurotoxin that was tested on pigs. Short term means if you wash it off, the convulsions will stop. We scrubbed her off, and problem solved...lesson learned."
Kimberly Preacher shared a post with the following information:
Repellent for your pets:
For pets, add 1 cup of water to a spray bottle, followed by 2 cups of distilled white vinegar. Ticks hate the smell and taste of vinegar, and will be easily be repelled by this ingredient alone. Then, add two spoonfuls of vegetable or almond oil, which both contain sulfur (another natural tick repellent).
To make a repellent that will also deter fleas, mix in a few spoonfuls of lemon juice, citrus oil, or peppermint oil, any of which will repel ticks and fleas while also creating a nicely scented repellent. Spray onto the pet's dry coat, staying away from sensitive areas including eyes, nose, mouth, and genitals. When outdoors for an extended period, spray this solution on two to three times per day.
Use any of the following oils: citronella, clove, lavender, peppermint, eucalyptus, lemon, sandalwood. I used lavender, eucalyptus, peppermint, and lemon.
- scant 1/2 cup witch hazel
- scant 1/2 cup distilled water
- 30-60 drops of essential oils
Combine the witch hazel and water in an 8oz spray bottle. Add the essential oils. The easiest way is to add an equal number of drops of each different oil. You can use 30-60 drops total in this recipe. I recommend starting with 30. See how you react to this amount, add more if necessary. (http://www.onegreenplanet.org/diy-natural-insect-repellent)
Other natural mosquito repellents
These are other natural mosquito repellents that are being researched:
- Fennel – A small study by researchers at Seoul National University in Korea found that a spray mosquito repellent containing 5% fennel oil was 84% effective after 90 minutes and a repellent cream with 8% fennel oil was 70% effective after 90 minutes.
- Thyme – In one study, carvacrol and alpha-terpinene, two compounds derived from the essential oil of thyme, were found to have significantly greater repellency than a commercial DEET repellent. The researchers suggest that a spray made with 2% alpha terpinene is a promising natural mosquito repellent. However, don’t try to make a thyme oil repellent at home- it is too irritating and strong-smelling to be used at effective concentrations above 25%.
- Clove oil – Two studies have found that undiluted topical clove oil is active against mosquitoes. However, like thyme oil, clove oil should not be applied undiluted to skin as a homemade repellent.
- Celery extract – A Thai study compared 15 mosquito repellents with a topical extract from celery. The researchers found that the extract did not irritate the skin or cause a burning sensation. It was found to be active against a wide range of mosquito species comparable to a 25% DEET formula.
- Neem oil – An extract from the tropical neem tree, neem oil has insecticidal compounds called azadirachtins.
- Vitamin B1 – Vitamin B1 is often taken to help repel mosquitos but one study suggests this remedy may be useless. Researchers at the University of Wisconsin study tested B1 with a larger sample of human subjects and found no effect of vitamin B.
- Garlic – Another popular theory is that ingesting garlic can provide protection against mosquitoes. A University of Connecticut study examined this claim with a randomized, double-blinded, placebo-controlled crossover study. The data didn’t provide evidence of significant mosquito repellence. However, subjects only consumed garlic once, and the researchers say that more prolonged ingestion may be needed.
Simple Natural Bug Spray
You will need:
- small spray bottle (find glass spray bottles here)
- ½ cup distilled water
- 1 tablespoon alcohol
- 6-10 drops essential oil: use any of these alone or any combination – lemongrass, any mint, lavender, citronella, eucalyptus, tea tree, neem, geranium, and litsea cubeba. My favorite is a mixture of lavender and litsea cubeba. It smells like lemon and bugs hate it!
A few of our experienced piggy friends share their advice: (I haven't tried any of these myself, but all of these people are experienced pig people.)
Rose P. Brown says :
"I was told by a horse person who uses this recipe on horses...equal parts of (no alcohol) peppermint mouthwash mixed with apple cider vinegar and you can put a few drops of pure vanilla extract in spray bottle and spray on pets to repel mosquitoes."
Kathy Baldwin says:
"I use the horse bug spray, on me too. My Elizabeth Ann went into convulsions after I sprayed her with deep woods off. I didn't make the connection because it was supposed to be safe for children. I called her vet, and she walked me through everything we did prior to to convulsions started. I called the # on the can, and they told me, they could only talk to my vet...ha, she was standing right there. Turns out it is a short term neurotoxin that was tested on pigs. Short term means if you wash it off, the convulsions will stop. We scrubbed her off, and problem solved...lesson learned."
Kimberly Preacher shared a post with the following information:
Repellent for your pets:
For pets, add 1 cup of water to a spray bottle, followed by 2 cups of distilled white vinegar. Ticks hate the smell and taste of vinegar, and will be easily be repelled by this ingredient alone. Then, add two spoonfuls of vegetable or almond oil, which both contain sulfur (another natural tick repellent).
To make a repellent that will also deter fleas, mix in a few spoonfuls of lemon juice, citrus oil, or peppermint oil, any of which will repel ticks and fleas while also creating a nicely scented repellent. Spray onto the pet's dry coat, staying away from sensitive areas including eyes, nose, mouth, and genitals. When outdoors for an extended period, spray this solution on two to three times per day.
Mosquito Control/Fly Control
Avon skin so soft is usually the go to for mosquito/fly control. Do not spray OFF or Deet products on your pig. There are situations Ive been made aware of where these specifc products have been used and have caused significant issues/complications with pet pigs. There are several home remedies that you can try. But talk to your vet and see what they recommend before trying anything not piggy approved. Pigs usually go for the more natural approach and wallow in a mud hole. The mud protects them not only from the sun, but also biting flies and irritating insects as well. There are livestock approved sprays that are safe to use on your pig. I wouldn't spray directly on a pig, but you can spray on a brush and use that brush on the pig to distribute the spray to the body. (http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/farnam-repel-xp-emulsifiable-fly-spray) There are ways to reduce the number of insects in your area by following 3 simple steps as listed below.
Eliminate Breeding Sites
One of the most important things to remember is that mosquitoes need stagnant water to reproduce. No water, no reproduction. Control then, is based on removing standing water, which can serve as a breeding site.
Reduce Exposure to Adult Mosquitoes
Use Repellents
Repellents are chemical substances that mosquitoes will avoid. Repellents can be useful as a way to reduce the risk of being bitten. Because repellents are potentially toxic, be sure to read the label carefully and use the product according to the manufacturer's recommendations. ONLY USE PET SAFE REPELLENTS ON YOUR PIG(S)!!
Eliminate Breeding Sites
One of the most important things to remember is that mosquitoes need stagnant water to reproduce. No water, no reproduction. Control then, is based on removing standing water, which can serve as a breeding site.
- Destroy or dispose of tin cans, old tires, buckets, or other containers that collect and hold water. Do not allow water to accumulate in the saucers of flowerpots, cemetery urns, or in pet dishes for more than 2 days.
- In areas where standing water cannot be avoided, use products that contain the insect growth regulator (IGR) methoprene. This stops the development of juvenile mosquitoes into adults.
- Be sure to dump your pigs pool every couple of days, not only will this keep it sanitary, but also eliminate an area for mosquitos to breed.
- Clean debris from rain gutters and remove any standing water under or around structures, or on flat roofs.
- Check around faucets and air conditioner units and repair leaks or eliminate puddles that remain for several days.
- Change the water in birdbaths and wading pools at least once a week.
- Reduce mosquito breeding in ornamental ponds.
- Stock ornamental pools with top feeding predacious minnows. Mosquito fish, for example, can eat 100 to 500 larvae per day. Koi or goldfish can be added to larger ponds.
- Treat the pool with biorational larvicides (Bacillus thuringiensis subsp. Israelensis, (Bti)). These products include Mosquito Dunks and Microbe-Lift Liquid Mosquito Control. They will not harm plants or fish, but they will help eradicate mosquito larvae.
- Add a feature such as a waterfall, fountain, or aerator. These options will not only enhance its beauty, but will also prevent it from becoming a breeding ground for mosquitoes, since they prefer to breed in stagnant, not moving water.
- Eliminate seepage from cisterns, cesspools, and septic tanks.
- Eliminate standing water around animal watering troughs. Flush livestock water troughs twice a week.
- Check for trapped water in plastic or canvas tarps used to cover boats, pools, etc. Arrange the tarp to drain the water.
- Irrigate lawns and gardens carefully to prevent water from standing for several days.
- Repair potholes in driveways and private roads.
- Fill any tree holes with sand.
Reduce Exposure to Adult Mosquitoes
- Mosquitoes are a favorite food for bats and birds, so placing bat houses and bird houses in your area is a great way to decrease the mosquito population naturally, without any toxic chemicals.
- Keep pets indoors during peak mosquito hours, which are dawn and dusk.
- Install or repair window and door screens so that mosquitoes cannot get indoors.
- Reduce light at night since light tends to attract mosquitoes.
- Adult mosquitoes prefer to rest where it is cool, dark, and damp, so keeping grass cut and weeds and brush under control, may encourage mosquitoes to find shelter elsewhere.
- Some products can be used throughout the yard. USE EXTREME CAUTION with these products. Take care to not spray when or where runoff could go into lakes or rivers. Read the label on all insecticides thoroughly and apply them as directed. Remember, these chemicals may kill beneficial insects as well as those we do not wish to have around.
- Consider a mosquito trap. These devices emit various combinations of vibrations, carbon dioxide, scent, heat, and moisture, which attract mosquitoes and other insects. A vacuum device then sucks the insects into a net or cylinder where they are trapped and die.
Use Repellents
Repellents are chemical substances that mosquitoes will avoid. Repellents can be useful as a way to reduce the risk of being bitten. Because repellents are potentially toxic, be sure to read the label carefully and use the product according to the manufacturer's recommendations. ONLY USE PET SAFE REPELLENTS ON YOUR PIG(S)!!
- Natural repellents for the environment: Products containing oil of sandalwood or citronella, such as Mosquito Sticks, outdoor candles, torches, and coils are used to repel mosquitoes outdoors. When burned, these products produce a smoke that repels mosquitoes. Unfortunately, they are only effective when used under windless conditions.
- Permethrin-containing repellents for clothing: Repellents containing permethrin are recommended for use on articles such as clothing, shoes, bednets, and camping gear. Permethrin repels and kills mosquitoes as well as ticks and other arthropods. DO NOT use permethrin products on human skin.
- Repellents for pets: There are several mosquito repellents available for pets. NOTE: Human repellents containing DEET are not recommended for pets and should be avoided. Additionally, since no repellent is 100% effective, heartworm preventatives are still necessary even if a mosquito repellent is used.
These are 2 products that can be purchased that are "pet friendly".
A fan can be your best friend during mosquito season....a low tech solution to a blood sucking pest.
Mosquitoes are pretty crappy flyers and they can’t fly in wind gusts that are over 10 miles per hour. You can accomplish this by setting your fan on the highest setting and relaxing in front of it.
Plus, fans don’t just create a windstorm that mosquitoes can’t enter – they also cool your body temperature and dissipate the carbon dioxide you exhale, making it harder for mosquitoes to find you in the first place. To find your insect net, you can click here for the 12.50 solution. https://www.amazon.com/HoboTraveler-com-Bug-Bagger
A case of Japanese encephalitis in pigs study was done in Malysia. http://www1.american.edu/TED/pigvirus.htm
Mosquitoes are pretty crappy flyers and they can’t fly in wind gusts that are over 10 miles per hour. You can accomplish this by setting your fan on the highest setting and relaxing in front of it.
Plus, fans don’t just create a windstorm that mosquitoes can’t enter – they also cool your body temperature and dissipate the carbon dioxide you exhale, making it harder for mosquitoes to find you in the first place. To find your insect net, you can click here for the 12.50 solution. https://www.amazon.com/HoboTraveler-com-Bug-Bagger
A case of Japanese encephalitis in pigs study was done in Malysia. http://www1.american.edu/TED/pigvirus.htm
How hot is it?
A lot of us use stainless bowls for sanitation reasons, these bowls are easier to clean and typically don't have the same potential to harbor bacteria like plastic bowls do. Just keep in mind, using the next picture as a reference, metal surfaces that are in the direct sunlight can reach temps much higher than the air temperature. So keep your metal bowls (and all bowls for that matter) in shaded areas so the bowls won't burn your pig and the contents inside do not become too hot.
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The pads on the bottom of the hooves can burn when a pig is made to walk on super hot surfaces. Please be cautious about asphalt, blacktop or metal surfaces. Even wood can get hot during the hotter summer months.
If you notice your pig is limping, check the pads for any cracks or abrasions. If you see any, treat right then. Burns like this may need special care and you will definitely want to call your vet and see if they'd like to see the pig or prescribe something for the burns. See our hoof care section for more tips about hoof care in general. You can visit that page by clicking here. |
The importance of shade

Shaded areas are of the upmost importance during the summer months. As you can see, the ground becomes extremely hot, hotter than the air temperature and can burn their feet. Also be on the lookout for their food and water bowls. They also become hot. If you use the metal bowls, or any other kind of dish, they can become so hot they will burn them, the contents, such as water, also become hot sitting in the sun. So, use an umbrella or place food and water dishes in a shaded area so they don't don't get burned on the hot surfaces of the dishes/bowls.
You can use tarps to create a shaded area if you do not have trees or other structures that can keep a particular area out of the natural sunlight. If it is not possible to create a misting system as above, routinely spray the ground with water so your pig has a place to lay on a cooler surface. Be sure to check up on your pig often to assess for any signs or symptoms of heat exhaustion.
Remember, your pig being out in extreme heat is like other animals in that they can be miserable. Try to ease that little by creating places they can go to cool off. If you have a poolhouse or other structure with a ceiling fan, allow them access if the area is pig-proofed so they can have a cool breeze. Do NOT overfeed in the summertime, being overly full and hot is not a good combination. Do have plenty of access to fresh water available at ALL times. Be sure to clean out water bowls DAILY as the biofilm that collects on these unclean surfaces can be harmful to your pig. The same applies to pools.
You can use tarps to create a shaded area if you do not have trees or other structures that can keep a particular area out of the natural sunlight. If it is not possible to create a misting system as above, routinely spray the ground with water so your pig has a place to lay on a cooler surface. Be sure to check up on your pig often to assess for any signs or symptoms of heat exhaustion.
Remember, your pig being out in extreme heat is like other animals in that they can be miserable. Try to ease that little by creating places they can go to cool off. If you have a poolhouse or other structure with a ceiling fan, allow them access if the area is pig-proofed so they can have a cool breeze. Do NOT overfeed in the summertime, being overly full and hot is not a good combination. Do have plenty of access to fresh water available at ALL times. Be sure to clean out water bowls DAILY as the biofilm that collects on these unclean surfaces can be harmful to your pig. The same applies to pools.
A reasonably priced shade that can practically be put anywhere. This can help keep your pigs out of the direct sunlight if you do not have a way to do it now. Obviously the ones pictured weren't used for pigs, but certainly could be!http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sun-Shade-Sail-UV-Top-Outdoor-Canopy-Patio-Lawn
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Ten Tips for providing a safe July 4th for your porcine household:
1. Make sure your pig gets out and gets plenty of exercise earlier in the day. (Before fireworks typically occur in your area) During this time it is important that you keep your pig hydrated since it is typically hot weather during this holiday. Good hydration and meals during the day can help your piggy sleep better that night when fireworks typically take place. (Do NOT overfeed during hot weather though, the body produces heat as digestion takes place and it is miserable when the belly is full on hot days if your pig stays outside during most days)
2. Keep your pig(s) inside during fireworks, preferably with human companionship. If it’s hot, air conditioning will help.
3. Provide a safe place inside for your pig to retreat. When scared of sounds they can’t orient, and that group of pigs often prefers small-enclosed areas. Most pigs have a favorite spot, but if this spot isn't really ideal because of the noise, take your pigs' favorite bed and blankets to a more soundproof room/area in your home. This is their "safe space".
4. If possible, keep the windows and curtains closed.
5. Make sure all your pigs are wearing ID tags with a properly fitting harness. (Panicked pigs have been known to become Houdini around the 4th of July.) Make sure you know where your pig is at ALL times! And be sure to fix any fencing issues that may allow for your pig to get out. Scared pigs will run, it doesn't necessarily mean they'll run in the house, they're just trying to get away from the loud noises.
This is also the day of the year where the most pets go missing, presumably running away because of fright.
6. Leave your pig something fun to do – like a frozen Kong filled with his favorite treats or a busy ball and fill with treats. Treat puzzles can keep your pig occupied as well. If you won't be home, leave a TV on for them to try and drown out some of the sounds from the events that may be taking place near you.
7. Encourage your pig to play, and play with him/her, but don’t allow them to collapse into your arms at the first bang or whistle. Many pigs want to do just that, as their fear overcomes their play drive. Diversion therapy can be extremely useful in situations like this. The sudden loud noises can be terrifying even for an older pig, so your pig may bark like a dog; this is a sign of fright. Your pig feels safe with you and if your pig runs to you for protection, reassure them that everything is ok and provide support to calm them. In the area where I live, fireworks are illegal, but that doesn't stop the ignorant neighbors and people in the surrounding communities to light some off themselves. The BIG firework display happens miles away, but can still be heard at my house. I try to comfort my pig because I know she's scared and although I know she is in no danger, she doesn't understand that.
8. Sound Therapy: Play music to calm your porcine companion. It is most effective when you first play the music well before the fireworks start; at a time the pig is already peaceful and relaxed. He will begin to associate the music with being calm and content. Then play the music a couple of hours before the fireworks start and continue to play through bedtime. The music doesn’t need to be loud to be effective, as it has been clinically demonstrated to calm the nervous system in animals.
9. If you have pigs that are not exhibiting fear, play with them. This will often distract the fearful pig as he/she is always vying for your attention.
10. Get away from the fireworks. Take your pig to a quiet place, perhaps in the country, and stay with a sympathetic friend or family member.
At the risk of repeating myself I most emphatically recommend, as in tip #5, you make certain your pig is harnessed, tagged, and micro-chipped because some will try to run away from the horror that is taking place around them. Having identification like a tag with your contact information attached to your pigs harness can help your pig get home quickly should he/she run away. If animal control happens to find your scared pig, if there is a micro-chip (that is up to date with your contact info), it will be a lot easier to get your piggy back home.
1. Make sure your pig gets out and gets plenty of exercise earlier in the day. (Before fireworks typically occur in your area) During this time it is important that you keep your pig hydrated since it is typically hot weather during this holiday. Good hydration and meals during the day can help your piggy sleep better that night when fireworks typically take place. (Do NOT overfeed during hot weather though, the body produces heat as digestion takes place and it is miserable when the belly is full on hot days if your pig stays outside during most days)
2. Keep your pig(s) inside during fireworks, preferably with human companionship. If it’s hot, air conditioning will help.
3. Provide a safe place inside for your pig to retreat. When scared of sounds they can’t orient, and that group of pigs often prefers small-enclosed areas. Most pigs have a favorite spot, but if this spot isn't really ideal because of the noise, take your pigs' favorite bed and blankets to a more soundproof room/area in your home. This is their "safe space".
4. If possible, keep the windows and curtains closed.
5. Make sure all your pigs are wearing ID tags with a properly fitting harness. (Panicked pigs have been known to become Houdini around the 4th of July.) Make sure you know where your pig is at ALL times! And be sure to fix any fencing issues that may allow for your pig to get out. Scared pigs will run, it doesn't necessarily mean they'll run in the house, they're just trying to get away from the loud noises.
This is also the day of the year where the most pets go missing, presumably running away because of fright.
6. Leave your pig something fun to do – like a frozen Kong filled with his favorite treats or a busy ball and fill with treats. Treat puzzles can keep your pig occupied as well. If you won't be home, leave a TV on for them to try and drown out some of the sounds from the events that may be taking place near you.
7. Encourage your pig to play, and play with him/her, but don’t allow them to collapse into your arms at the first bang or whistle. Many pigs want to do just that, as their fear overcomes their play drive. Diversion therapy can be extremely useful in situations like this. The sudden loud noises can be terrifying even for an older pig, so your pig may bark like a dog; this is a sign of fright. Your pig feels safe with you and if your pig runs to you for protection, reassure them that everything is ok and provide support to calm them. In the area where I live, fireworks are illegal, but that doesn't stop the ignorant neighbors and people in the surrounding communities to light some off themselves. The BIG firework display happens miles away, but can still be heard at my house. I try to comfort my pig because I know she's scared and although I know she is in no danger, she doesn't understand that.
8. Sound Therapy: Play music to calm your porcine companion. It is most effective when you first play the music well before the fireworks start; at a time the pig is already peaceful and relaxed. He will begin to associate the music with being calm and content. Then play the music a couple of hours before the fireworks start and continue to play through bedtime. The music doesn’t need to be loud to be effective, as it has been clinically demonstrated to calm the nervous system in animals.
9. If you have pigs that are not exhibiting fear, play with them. This will often distract the fearful pig as he/she is always vying for your attention.
10. Get away from the fireworks. Take your pig to a quiet place, perhaps in the country, and stay with a sympathetic friend or family member.
At the risk of repeating myself I most emphatically recommend, as in tip #5, you make certain your pig is harnessed, tagged, and micro-chipped because some will try to run away from the horror that is taking place around them. Having identification like a tag with your contact information attached to your pigs harness can help your pig get home quickly should he/she run away. If animal control happens to find your scared pig, if there is a micro-chip (that is up to date with your contact info), it will be a lot easier to get your piggy back home.
Skin Cancer
Squamous cell carcinoma is very common in pigs, especially among such pale skinned pigs. Lighter colored pigs of any breed are at a higher risk. Signs of skin cancer usually appear first on the skin behind the ears but may also affect the shoulders, the back, and even the abdominal area. We recommend that, during the spring, summer, and fall, you apply sunscreen to all areas on your pigs not covered in mud. Sun exposure is rarely in issue in winter, except in very warm climates. Darker pigmented pigs also carry a risk of getting sunburn as well as the same skin conditions as the lighter colored pigs, it is easier to identify these issues in the pale colored pigs, but is certainly an issue with ALL pigs that have a lot of sun exposure.
Dippity Pig Syndrome
Click here to ready about Dippity Pig Syndrome. This is a common disorder in the spring and summertime. It can be scary if you are unsure of what's going on, so familiarize yourself with how this presents so you won't have to panic should your pig come down with this non-life threatening condition.
Erysipelas and other illnesses/diseases that are more common during the warmer months are often identified too late or misidentified to begin with. Familiarize yourself with common illnesses and how they're contracted to reduce your pigs chances of getting sick. Some of these diseases come from the soil and have nothing to do with your pigs exposure to another pig. There are vaccinations available, but vaccines do not cover all the different strains, they do normally cover the most common though. If you haven't talked to your vet about vaccinating your pig for common illnesses, now is as good a time as any to have that talk. Click here to read more about diseases/illnesses that affect pigs so you can identify a problem early on.
Squamous cell carcinoma is very common in pigs, especially among such pale skinned pigs. Lighter colored pigs of any breed are at a higher risk. Signs of skin cancer usually appear first on the skin behind the ears but may also affect the shoulders, the back, and even the abdominal area. We recommend that, during the spring, summer, and fall, you apply sunscreen to all areas on your pigs not covered in mud. Sun exposure is rarely in issue in winter, except in very warm climates. Darker pigmented pigs also carry a risk of getting sunburn as well as the same skin conditions as the lighter colored pigs, it is easier to identify these issues in the pale colored pigs, but is certainly an issue with ALL pigs that have a lot of sun exposure.
Dippity Pig Syndrome
Click here to ready about Dippity Pig Syndrome. This is a common disorder in the spring and summertime. It can be scary if you are unsure of what's going on, so familiarize yourself with how this presents so you won't have to panic should your pig come down with this non-life threatening condition.
Erysipelas and other illnesses/diseases that are more common during the warmer months are often identified too late or misidentified to begin with. Familiarize yourself with common illnesses and how they're contracted to reduce your pigs chances of getting sick. Some of these diseases come from the soil and have nothing to do with your pigs exposure to another pig. There are vaccinations available, but vaccines do not cover all the different strains, they do normally cover the most common though. If you haven't talked to your vet about vaccinating your pig for common illnesses, now is as good a time as any to have that talk. Click here to read more about diseases/illnesses that affect pigs so you can identify a problem early on.
Traveling with your pig FAQ
Q: What should I think about when deciding to travel with my pet? Click here to view regulations regarding traveling with your pig to be sure you have appropriate paperwork that needs to be in place prior to your pig crossing state lines.
A: There are numerous considerations you should take into account:
A: There are numerous considerations you should take into account:
- Make sure your pet is comfortable with travel
- Some pets cannot handle travel because of illness, injury, age or temperament.
- If your pet is not good with travel, you should consider a reliable pet-sitter or talk to your veterinarian about boarding facilities in your area. Keep in mind that pigs don't accept change well and you will likely need to find someone who knows your pig well. Even by doing that, your pig may still act aggressively to your sitter, so arm yourself with a hog panel or sorting board so your pig sitter isn't at risk for getting hurt. Videotape a day in your life so your pig has little change in their care, if possible.
- Make sure your pet has identification tags with up-to-date information. A harness has a place where tags can easily be placed.
- Having your pet implanted with a microchip can improve your chances of getting your pet back if it becomes lost. The microchip must be registered with your current contact information, including a cell phone number. A tag is included when you have a microchip that has the microchip number and a mobile contact of the owner, so if the pet is found, they can use the tag to determine ownership without having to contact a veterinarian. Contact the microchip company for a replacement tag if you've lost yours, and for information on how to update your personal information when traveling.
- If you are taking your pet across state or international borders, a health certificate is required. The health certificate must be signed by a veterinarian after your pet has been examined and found to be free of disease. Your pet's vaccinations must be up to date in order for the health certificate to be completed.
- Make sure that your pet is allowed where you are staying. Some accommodations will allow pets and some will not, so check in advance. Also, when traveling, you should bring a portable kennel with you if you have to leave your pet unattended. Click here to see our list of places that DO allow pets, you will need to call and verify pigs are allowed.
- Staying with Friends or Family: Inform your host that your pet will be coming along and make sure that your pet is a welcomed guest as well. Being in a new environment can be difficult on your pig. Bring comforts from home, crate, bed, favorite blanket, litter box if necessary and a harness in case there is no fenced in area or there are areas of weakness in the fencing structure at the house you're staying at. (Always better to be safe rather than sorry)
- Staying in a Hotel or Motel: Stay at a pet friendly place. Some hotels and motels only accept small pets or pets under a certain weight; when making a reservation, make sure you inquire about the terms of their pet policy. Try to minimize the amount of time your pet will be alone in the room. When leaving your pet alone in the room, inform the front desk that your pet is being left alone in the room and place a "Do Not Disturb" sign on the door. Make sure the hotel/motel knows how they can contact you if there are any problems.
- Staying at a Park, Campground or Marina: Make sure these places are pet friendly, clean up after your pet and always keep your pet on a harness/leash. There are lots of families who bring the family dog to these types of places, be sure to keep your pig safe from predator animals (dogs) by ALWAYS keeping your pig secure or on a harness and leash.
- Interstate and international travel regulations require any pet you bring with you to have a health certificate from your veterinarian – even if you are traveling by car. Learn the requirements for any states you will visit or pass through, and schedule an appointment with your veterinarian to get the needed certificate within the timeframes required by those states. Even Santa's reindeer need to get health certificates for their annual flight around the world.
- Pigs in vehicles should always be safely restrained and should never be left alone in the car in any weather. Proper restraint means using a secure harness or a carrier/crate, placed in a location clear of airbags. Never transport your pig in the bed of a truck. Not only are there weather concerns, but debris could possibly hit them at high driving speeds.
- If you’re traveling by air and considering bringing your pig with you, talk with your veterinarian first. Air travel can put some pets at risk, especially older pigs. Your veterinarian is the best person to advise you regarding your own pig’s ability to travel. If your pig is not an emotional support pet, your pig will need to travel in the cargo section of the plane and not with you in the cabin. This is not recommended or ideal, if possible. Pigs have a very small lung capacity under normal circumstances, so any additional pressure on your pigs already "not so great" lungs may hurt your pig.
- Pack for your pig as well as you do for yourself if you’re going to travel together. In addition to your pig’s food and medications, this includes bringing copies of their medical records, information to help identify your pig if it becomes lost, first aid supplies, and other items. Refer to our Traveling with Your Pet FAQs for a more complete list. (below)
- Boarding your pig while you travel? Talk with your veterinarian to find out how best to protect your pig from contagious diseases, and to make sure your pet is up-to-date on vaccinations. There are boarding facilities and other pig parents and pet sitters that may be able to lend a helping hand when you are going to be away for a short amount of time. Having someone come to YOUR home is usually easiest on your pig though if boarding at a reputable facility isn't an option.
Weeds...what can safely be used in a pig friendly yard?
Another common question in the summertime is what type of weed killers can safely be used when you have a pig with access to those same areas of the yard. We were able to find this homemade solution for pig safe weed killers. While there is a mixture of products that is used which individually may cause problems with pigs, when used in place of pesticides, the areas are much less likely to cause significant issues to pigs, especially if they have access to fresh water at all times.