You have made the decision to get a pig, now, where do you get one from?
This is a good place to start. Don't buy into the micro mini pig thing and spend a lot of money to end up with a much bigger pig than you expect, at the same time, don't have unrealistic expectations! There are some smaller pigs out there, honestly, they don't usually live as long as the bigger pigs, typically they have health issues and smaller pigs, in general, are the exception, not the rule. If you think you are going to have a pig the same size as a kitten forever, you are setting yourself up for a BIG disappointment. Our first suggestion will always be to rescue a pig in need. There are pigs EVERYWHERE that need homes, pigs in Craigslist, pigs posted in groups on Facebook needing to be rehomed, pigs in shelters, pigs at foster homes, even dedicated pages and groups that were made for that exact purpose. We added an adoptable pigs page to our website. You can view that page by clicking here. We also created a Mini Pig Info Adoptable Pigs page that will share/network pigs in need of a home that you can view by clicking here. PPN (Pig Placement Network) is an organization that matches approved adoptive families with a pig that would suit their family's needs. There are ALOT of pig rescues bursting at the seams with adoptable pigs as well. (click here to see the list of pig rescues/sanctuaries). Another suggestion is that you visit a rescue, maybe even offer to help them for a day so you can see what its like to have a pig as a pet. Read over the website and truly make sure you are prepared, not only physically, but also mentally. They are a lifetime commitment. Pigs DO take a lot of your time, lots of training and plenty of patience. They're very social animals, (they actually do better in pairs), so they like to be around people and other animals. If size is important to you, a pig likely isn't the right pet for you.
The USDA does have guidelines for animal breeders, but there are very few for pet pigs. Those guidelines can be found using the link following this paragraph. The information leaves a lot to interpretation unfortunately. https://www.aphis.usda.gov/animal_welfare/downloads/.pdf
Our recommendations:
1. Adopt a pig in need and save a life! (Pig Placement Network)
2. Check out animal shelters.
3. Look for a pig/animal sanctuary or rescue to see if there are any adoptable pigs.
4. Check social media for adoptable pigs. There is ALWAYS someone who "can't" care for their pig.
5. Visit your local humane society.
6. Avoid "piggy mills" or those who just crank them out and charge outrageous fees.
For anyone considering buying a pig from a breeder:
Whether or not I support breeding, the fact is, that as a breeder, if you don't support your customers after they receive an animal from you, then you are a BAD breeder. Not to mention the lies that are told to misrepresent these pigs. If you don't educate your customers on PROPER care of a pig and you advise them to feed 2 tablespoons of food twice a day, then you are a BAD breeder. If you suggest guinea pig food or another species of animal's feed to try and limit the natural growth of a pig you are selling? You are a BAD breeder. Invite pig parents to pig groups on Facebook, if you don't like one that is established and already there, then start your own with accurate information and honest people that can really be helpful. Or invite them to another group that you do like. If you're not calling them every week for the first month and periodically calling to check and make sure the animal you sold them is doing well and they don't have any questions regarding the care of the pig, then you shouldn't be breeding. If you claim your pig mama and daddy are fully grown and they're not 5 years old, not only are you a BAD breeder but you're also a LIAR! There isn't a person in this world who had the magical powers to tell you how big a pig will get when fully grown. There is an educated guess, but no guarantee. If a breeder tells you a pig is 8 months old and it's only 3lbs, odds are your breeder is a liar too. I always say check out rescues close to you, but if you have your mind made up that you will purchase a pig, DO YOUR RESEARCH! Just because someone tells you something doesn't make it true. Just because one person has a pig of smaller stature doesn't mean you will too. You can't starve a golden retriever to make it the size of a chihuahua. The real fact is some people will lie. They'll tell you a pig is much older than it is, they'll show you toddler pigs that they've bred as "adults" or "parents" eluding to the fact that they're grown, when in fact, pigs aren't considered fully mature until they're 3-5 years old. So based on LIES, people get a pig and are upset when the pig they get is 5x the size they were promised. Ultimately, your pig loves you and you love your pig, so you figure it out. (At least the good homes do) So your breeder is banking on the fact that you wouldn't send a 2 year old pig back to them based on their weight"guarantee" or they'll tell you that you overfed the pig causing them to weigh more than their starved pigs do. You have to use some common sense, if you can see the bone structure on any animal, odds are, they're emaciated and starving. You should be able to feel certain bones on a pig, but you should not be able to see them.
Pigs are dying because of the ignorance. People are being told that pigs are several months old when in fact the odds are they're only weeks old. That's not fair to a new pig parent and most of all, it's not fair to the pig. People already have unrealistic expectations, telling them a pig is older than they are is setting these pigs up for failure. Just yesterday, a new pig mama took her "7" month old to the vet to be spayed, well the vet couldn't find the ovaries and closed her back up. Granted, the vet also diagnosed her with UTI and although she was there all day, and didn't give her any antibiotics for it while she was in their care, and failed to give the pig mama the medicine until she asked for it as they were leaving the office. Just a bad situation all the way around, well fast forward to this morning, she woke up to find her baby had passed away overnight. Obviously she is heartbroken and doesn't know why her otherwise healthy pig died and only a necropsy will be able to determine the cause of death, but a 7 month old pig that weighs less than 10lbs could absolutely explain part of the issue. I didn't know her personally, but I do know what it's like to lose a young pig unexpectedly right after being treated by a vet. This pig was NOT 7 months old as claimed. I can related to the feelings of hopelessness and guilt and the "what if's". I don't know who is at fault, and I know vets are humans and also make mistakes or poor judgement calls, but I know there are many more with similar stories and this has got to stop. (Rest in paradise sweet Bernice the pig.) I am still very very sad for her owner and family. Once people start being honest, some of this heartbreak will stop because people will be better informed and know where to go for help and know about pigs before they get one and won't be expecting a 3 lb pig to stay that way when it's grown. A good breeder will be honest and up front and provide proof of your piglets real age, provide you with all vet records and a CVI (certificate of veterinary inspection) if crossing state lines. A good breeder WILL continue to be in contact with you throughout your pigs life and provide support as long as you have that pig in your care. A "good" breeder will be willing to take that pig back should you not be able to care for this pig for any reason.
The USDA does have guidelines for animal breeders, but there are very few for pet pigs. Those guidelines can be found using the link following this paragraph. The information leaves a lot to interpretation unfortunately. https://www.aphis.usda.gov/animal_welfare/downloads/.pdf
Our recommendations:
1. Adopt a pig in need and save a life! (Pig Placement Network)
2. Check out animal shelters.
3. Look for a pig/animal sanctuary or rescue to see if there are any adoptable pigs.
4. Check social media for adoptable pigs. There is ALWAYS someone who "can't" care for their pig.
5. Visit your local humane society.
6. Avoid "piggy mills" or those who just crank them out and charge outrageous fees.
For anyone considering buying a pig from a breeder:
Whether or not I support breeding, the fact is, that as a breeder, if you don't support your customers after they receive an animal from you, then you are a BAD breeder. Not to mention the lies that are told to misrepresent these pigs. If you don't educate your customers on PROPER care of a pig and you advise them to feed 2 tablespoons of food twice a day, then you are a BAD breeder. If you suggest guinea pig food or another species of animal's feed to try and limit the natural growth of a pig you are selling? You are a BAD breeder. Invite pig parents to pig groups on Facebook, if you don't like one that is established and already there, then start your own with accurate information and honest people that can really be helpful. Or invite them to another group that you do like. If you're not calling them every week for the first month and periodically calling to check and make sure the animal you sold them is doing well and they don't have any questions regarding the care of the pig, then you shouldn't be breeding. If you claim your pig mama and daddy are fully grown and they're not 5 years old, not only are you a BAD breeder but you're also a LIAR! There isn't a person in this world who had the magical powers to tell you how big a pig will get when fully grown. There is an educated guess, but no guarantee. If a breeder tells you a pig is 8 months old and it's only 3lbs, odds are your breeder is a liar too. I always say check out rescues close to you, but if you have your mind made up that you will purchase a pig, DO YOUR RESEARCH! Just because someone tells you something doesn't make it true. Just because one person has a pig of smaller stature doesn't mean you will too. You can't starve a golden retriever to make it the size of a chihuahua. The real fact is some people will lie. They'll tell you a pig is much older than it is, they'll show you toddler pigs that they've bred as "adults" or "parents" eluding to the fact that they're grown, when in fact, pigs aren't considered fully mature until they're 3-5 years old. So based on LIES, people get a pig and are upset when the pig they get is 5x the size they were promised. Ultimately, your pig loves you and you love your pig, so you figure it out. (At least the good homes do) So your breeder is banking on the fact that you wouldn't send a 2 year old pig back to them based on their weight"guarantee" or they'll tell you that you overfed the pig causing them to weigh more than their starved pigs do. You have to use some common sense, if you can see the bone structure on any animal, odds are, they're emaciated and starving. You should be able to feel certain bones on a pig, but you should not be able to see them.
Pigs are dying because of the ignorance. People are being told that pigs are several months old when in fact the odds are they're only weeks old. That's not fair to a new pig parent and most of all, it's not fair to the pig. People already have unrealistic expectations, telling them a pig is older than they are is setting these pigs up for failure. Just yesterday, a new pig mama took her "7" month old to the vet to be spayed, well the vet couldn't find the ovaries and closed her back up. Granted, the vet also diagnosed her with UTI and although she was there all day, and didn't give her any antibiotics for it while she was in their care, and failed to give the pig mama the medicine until she asked for it as they were leaving the office. Just a bad situation all the way around, well fast forward to this morning, she woke up to find her baby had passed away overnight. Obviously she is heartbroken and doesn't know why her otherwise healthy pig died and only a necropsy will be able to determine the cause of death, but a 7 month old pig that weighs less than 10lbs could absolutely explain part of the issue. I didn't know her personally, but I do know what it's like to lose a young pig unexpectedly right after being treated by a vet. This pig was NOT 7 months old as claimed. I can related to the feelings of hopelessness and guilt and the "what if's". I don't know who is at fault, and I know vets are humans and also make mistakes or poor judgement calls, but I know there are many more with similar stories and this has got to stop. (Rest in paradise sweet Bernice the pig.) I am still very very sad for her owner and family. Once people start being honest, some of this heartbreak will stop because people will be better informed and know where to go for help and know about pigs before they get one and won't be expecting a 3 lb pig to stay that way when it's grown. A good breeder will be honest and up front and provide proof of your piglets real age, provide you with all vet records and a CVI (certificate of veterinary inspection) if crossing state lines. A good breeder WILL continue to be in contact with you throughout your pigs life and provide support as long as you have that pig in your care. A "good" breeder will be willing to take that pig back should you not be able to care for this pig for any reason.
So, are there ways to find a good breeder?
Well, I will always push for someone to rescue versus buying a pig from a breeder. There are pigs posted DAILY on Facebook needing homes, PPN (Pig Placement Network) is a great place to start. They have a running list of pigs needing homes and families wanting pigs that have been approved for adoption. Pigs are posted in all the pig groups needing homes on Facebook. There are animal control centers and shelters with pigs, there are pigs listed all over craigslist. Older pigs, special needs pigs, piglets, 4 week old pigs, 6 month old pigs, pink pigs, black pigs, Juliana pigs, whatever kind of pig you're looking for can be found for a small rehoming fee or even sometimes free. (unfortunately) People can't give pigs away and there are others paying hundreds, sometimes thousands for the same pigs we see posted online that are needing homes. There are good breeders and there are bad breeders. There are good rescues and there are bad rescues. Not all breeders are lumped into the same category, just as all rescues and sanctuaries are not the same. Research, ask a lot of questions. Look for a person who has excellent breeding standards and ask others what their experiences have been with that person. Research, research, research!!!!
FACTORS TO CONSIDER BEFORE RESCUING OR ADOPTING:
The beauty of rescuing or adopting a pig is that you can get an idea of the pigs individual needs and personality, much more so than you can with a very young piglet. This gives you a chance to find the pig or your dreams without waiting to see if they mature to your ideas of what they should be. Adopting an older pig increases the chances of you keeping tour pig. An old pig CAN learn new tricks! Some older pigs have special medical needs, just be sure to get as much information as you can to ensure your home is a good fit.
This pigs particular needs: It's NOT a matter of whether this pig is a good pig to adopt or not. It's a matter of whether YOU can meet this pig's particular needs, to give her a quality of life without putting strain on yourself and your family. A perfect match. There will be positives and negatives with any pig, find a level balance to make your decision. Ask a lot of questions. Ask these questions to yourself. do you have the financial means to care for a pig? Do you have a yard for a pig? Is the yard fenced in securely? (This is not only to stop your pig from running away or getting out, but also from predators getting into your pigs area) Do you have time for a pig? Remember, its not as easy to find someone to watch your pig as it is to find someone to watch your dog. Pigs get territorial and upset when you leave them. Do you have young children? Pigs have to be trained much like any animal, but pigs get frustrated and can nip and bite before they're trained, children often drop food as they walk and eat and a pig will quickly figure this put and stalk kids to get their leftovers. Some pigs get obsessed with this kind of behavior and will jump up on the kids to get a bite, this can go further into full blown food aggression. (Just something to think about)
History of pig: What breeder did the pig come from? What type of family situation was she is? Why was she given up? Has this family ever had a pig before? What happened to that pig?
Health: Look for signs of health to determine if you are in a position to care for this pig. Does this pig need to lose or gain weight? Does this pig walk with a limp? Is this pig agile and/or able to move about freely without any issues? Some pigs will have congenital defects, genetic diseases, nutritional deficiencies, painful obesity, injuries that need medical attention, contagious infections or parasites. Can you handle the health & future medical costs of this pig? Is this a special needs pig that will require ongoing medical care?
Spayed or Neutered: Pet pigs should ALWAYS be spayed or neutered. Any rescued pig should NEVER ever ever be bred. Intact pigs do not typically make good pets, and rescued pigs do not make good breeding stock. If the pig up for adoption is not spayed/neutered you will need to figure that cost into the adoption. Rescue organizations that do not spay/neuter prior to adoption would be a big red flag.
** On a personal note, I rescued an unneutered pig who was just as sweet as could be for the first 2 days he was at my home. The 3rd day, he was vaccinated for his upcoming neuter procedure, which was scheduled for 4 weeks after he received his tetanus vaccine. Days after being at my home, this rescue pig turned aggressive and stabbed my leg with his 4-5 inch tusk. I ended up with an awful leg infection from this as well. I share this because I wasn't aware that boars could NOT be trusted, I let my guard down too quick and trusted that he didn't want to hurt any of us at my house, but I was wrong. He has became increasingly more aggressive and mean ever since. I know hormones are a lot of the problem, but this kind of behavior has likely also become part of his routine. He will be neutered tomorrow actually, and I will begin to work with him without the fear of being attacked. (He will also have his tusks trimmed to a safe size). It won't be easy, but I love him very much and wouldn't ever throw him away or discard him because he is acting like an intact boar. Just keep this in mind if you rescue an intact pig. their behaviors can sometimes be challenging, so please spay and neuter ASAP.
**updated update, You can read Huckleberry's story by clicking here. His retraining was quite successful and he turned into the sweetest pig you could ever imagine, BUT, it was quite a challenge for a number of months. Keep this in mind if you decide to bring an unaltered pig into your home. He did successfully find a great loving home after being neutered and retrained.
Weight, Body Condition: If the pig is underweight she will need some really good nutrition to bring her back to health. Depending on severity of the malnutrition she can have very expensive and heartbreaking long term effects of the malnutrition. The reason for the malnutrition is also important. She could have simply been underfed or fed the wrong foods. Or she could be riddled with parasites. Or she could have a disease that is preventing her from absorbing the nutrients. Either way, she will need to see a vet ASAP. Obesity is another concern to consider. Obese pigs NEED to lose weight for their health and quality of life. The weight doesn't come off easy. Obese pigs may be grouchy due to expecting a constant supply of food. They may be food aggressive because they have been taught that food is free. This can all be worked on and fixed, BUT you need to know what you are getting into to make the best decision for yourself and the adoptable pig. An overweight pig may be fat blind or have arthritis from being overweight for a long period of time and have difficulty walking or moving around. An underweight pig may show signs go aggression because its constantly hungry and the nutritional needs are never met leaving that pig hungry all the time. Malnourished pigs can suffer bone abnormalities because they were never fed the proper diet and their bones and organs had to adapt. They usually have immunity problems and get sick often. Sometimes they're not even able to walk. Click here to go to the how to identify of a pig is under or over weight section.
Living conditions: Has the pig lived indoors or outdoors? Is the pig potty trained? Does she use a litterbox or potty outside? Does this pig sleep inside in a crate and play outside during the day? Does this pig have a large backyard or enclosed pen for outside time? If the pig is already accustomed to a setup similar to your own home that will be the easiest transition. If there are differences in her previous home and new home then you need to understand those differences to make the transition smooth for her. Was she given preventative & medical care, vaccines, deworming, hoof trimming, are the tusks appropriate length. Pigs like routine, they get upset when the routine changes, but can adapt to a new routine. This takes time. It takes time whether you decide to rescue a pig or whether you get a piglet.
Training and desensitization: Was she taught to accept hoof trims, accept human leadership, take treats nicely, physical restraint like for doctors visits, picking up, leash training, baths? These are all factors to consider in making your decision, but NOT to dissuade you. Everything can be worked on. It's only a matter to consider to make sure you are up for the challenge of THIS PARTICULAR PIG and her needs.
Individual personality: Is she social? Is she a loner? Does she crave human affection? Is she a smarty pants in need of lots of mental stimulation? Is she a lazy butt and would rather snooze while you watch tv? Does she want to travel the world (or woods hiking) with you? Would she rather stay put in her safety zone with her favorite family members? Does she want to run outside and play all day? Does she like to cuddle? Or is she not a cuddler? Is she destructive? (which typically indicates a bored pig) Is she a digger? Does she like car rides? Is she constantly into things she shouldn't be getting into?
Choosing a breeder or rescue is one of the most important considerations when adding a pig to the family. The right breeder or rescue will provide you with a healthy, robust, socialized pig/piglet to become part of your family. In the case of rescues you may have socialization or health challenges to help the adopted pig through, but honesty and support from the rescue will ensure a smooth transition. BREEDER info on top RESCUE info below.
QUESTIONS TO ASK THE BREEDER:
· How long have you been breeding mini pigs?
· Why did you choose these two pigs for breeding?
· What age do you start breeding your pigs (male and female)?
· How old are the parents now? (Pigs aren't done growing until 3-5 years old. Younger than this will now show their full growth potential). Ask for proof of age.
· Do the parents have any genetic faults you know of?
· Have the parents suffered from any diseases or health problems?
· What age do you take the piglets from mom? Do you have a set schedule or do you let mom decide?
· Do you ship or transport across state lines? What veterinary care or certificates do you provide for this? Have you used this airline or transport service before?
· Do you clip needle teeth?
· Do you vaccinate and deworm the babies? Ask for proof of this as well. Was mom dewormed before the piglets were born?
· What other healthcare do they receive before they come home?
· What types of socialization, training, desensitizing do you do for the piglets? (Litter training, picking up, holding, baths, harness, etc)
· Are the piglets born inside or outside? If they are born outside, do you bring them inside after they are weaned for more human contact?
· Do you neuter males before they are sent to their new families?
· Do you spay females before they are sent to their new families?
· Will you take back the pig in the event my family is no longer able to care for him/her?
· What breeder did your breeding stock come from?
· What size have previous piglets grown to from these parents?
· What enrichment do you provide to give your breeder pigs a good quality of life?
· What food do you recommend?
· What type of litter was the baby trained on?
· Have you retired any of your breeding stock? Why was that particular pig retired?
· What vaccination schedule do you recommend, and why?
· What veterinarian do you use and why did you choose him or her?
· Do you have any other customers I can speak to or references?
· Also ask for a vet reference, good breeders have a vet they routinely use.
CHOOSING A PIGLET:
· Piglets should be active, alert, and appear healthy.
· A piglet should have open eyes free of crust or discharge
· A piglet should be well rounded without prodtruding bones
· There should be no signs of illness
· The piglet should be having solid bowel movements and urinating appropriately
· They should be clean and free of odors (unless they have been traveling in a crate)
· Healthy hair & smooth skin free of rashes, irritations, bumps, scaling, or bald patches
· Piglets should be proportional. Straight tails. Deformity free. Skin condition should be checked. Not overly dry or red. They should be friendly and not timid of human contact. Steady gait. Clear eyes.
· Piglets should also be eating solid foods before going to their new homes and completely weaned from mom.
****RED FLAGS-BREEDERS (OR RESCUES, AS APPLICABLE) TO AVOID:****
· The breeder should have a take back policy. If they will not take back the pig at ANY time in it's life, for ANY reason, then this is a breeder to avoid. It should be important to the breeder to always know where ALL their babies are, to make sure they are well cared for throughout their life. This is the cost of bringing lives into the world; you are responsible to the end.
· If a breeder takes piglets from mom before 6-8 weeks, AVOID THIS BREEDER. This is not safe for the piglet or the adoptive family.
· If a breeder or rescuer doesn't ask YOU questions on your suitability for a pet pig, then run. They should care where their babies are going and how they will live. Breeders should ask questions on your experience, your research of pigs, your family situation, kids or other pets in the household, to make sure you have a pig experienced vet, adequate fencing, housing of the pig (indoors, outdoors, and weather appropriate accommodations).
· Pigs should be altered before sale or adoption. Spay/neuter contracts are impossible to enforce. If the pig doesn't get fixed or is rehomed before altering then they may suffer from mistreatment due to hormonal behaviors, unscrupulous breeding practices, or cancers and infections of the reproductive system. If a person or organization is willing to adopt out an intact pig then they are not motivated 100% by the pigs best interest. This could be to misinformation, selfishness, urgency, or other factors. There are situations where a pig needs to be rehomed before a spay or neuter surgery can be done or afforded, but in this case you need to take the situation into consideration to make sure they are not bending the truth or deceiving in other areas in order to "get rid of" the pig.
· If you have had pigs in the family previously the breeder or rescuer will want to know what happened to those pigs, if they were rehomed or died (and how they died).
· These are all common questions asked by rescue organizations that rehome animals of all sorts-- a responsible breeder will want to ask all the same questions to ensure their babies are going to be treated respectfully and responsibly, for their entire life.
· Your personal feelings on euthanasia may be asked-- do not be alarmed. Opinions on this practice will vary by individuals, but a responsible breeder will want families that share their views.
· Breeders should ask what you will do if an expensive veterinary bill comes up.
· Feeding should be addressed before taking home piglet/pig to make sure the new families are aware of nutritional needs of the pig.
· If a breeder or rescuer is ready to hand over a pig without asking some or all of these questions, then beware-- they may not be around when you need them the most.
*Gender confusion: If a rescue or breeder is confused on the gender of a pig, RED FLAG! This does not mean do not adopt. (If a breeder doesn't know the correct gender, RUN!). This means they are not educated enough on pigs to give you all the facts. If they are confused on gender then PLEASE consider any information they give you as a *may be true*. If you are not prepared for variables in the adopted pig then please seek a reputable rescue organization that can help you find the perfect match.
A GOOD BREEDER SHOULD
· Be knowledgeable- s/he should answer all your questions & provide as much info as you need
· Have lots of resources for you to research before and after
· Allow visits on site- you will want to see the parents in person and the conditions the piglets are raised in
· Make you sign a contract- the contract should protect you as the buyer in your investment as well as the pig
· Take back pig regardless of situation- good breeders don't want their pigs on Craigslist or in shelters. They will always take back their pigs to find a new suitable home.
· Allow contact before and after- your breeder will be a fountain of information and experience. You should feel welcome to contact him or her at any time, before or after bringing home baby.
· Talk about parents as much as the baby- the baby is a product of the parents. Size, health, genetics, disposition, personality, these all come from the parents. Your breeder should enjoy his/her adult pigs and have stories to tell about them.
· Provide health records
· Should tell you the cons of owning a pig and not just the pros
· Should spend time with piglets and know them in/out, forwards/backwards
· Have references of previous customers, as well as veterinarian
· If not spayed and neutered already, have separate contract for spays/neuter
· Explain vaccines, pro & cons, and why they are needed & risks involved
· Gives size expectations in height, NOT in weight
· Gives realistic size expectations-- no healthy adult pig will be 10-15 pounds
· Weans babies at an appropriate age and keeps the babies with their littermates until 6 weeks or more
· Spends time with the babies handling them and socializing them
· Ask you questions to make sure your family situation is ideal for a pet pig & to make sure you have the information you need to care for the piglet
· Continue to provide you support long after the pig is at your home. A great breeder keeps in touch with you and enjoys seeing the updated pictures of her grandpig.
· The piglets should go to their new home when they are on pelleted feed only-- no milk! A good breeder will not recommend anything other than a mini pig feed or an all natural diet.
CONSIDERATIONS BEFORE RESCUING
You need to prepare yourself for the possibility of an unloved pig. Typically people lose interest and the pig "needs" to be rehomed. This pig will be sad. A pig grieves much like humans do when we lose someone we love. This will be the case whether your pig comes from a rescue or a breeder. They grieve the ones they leave behind. Some rescues won't even adopt out a single pig, but only adopt in pairs for this reason. Failure to thrive is real and can be deadly if not handled appropriately. When a pig comes from someone you don't know, you need as much information as possible about he pigs past. You also need to quarantine this pig from any others you may have until medically cleared by your vet. Find out why the person could no longer keep the pig. Was it a preference? Were they moving? Was the pig having behavioral issues? Often times the previous owner could've reached out to the right people and gotten some insight on properly caring for a pet pig and eliminated the need to rehome it. Unfortunately, people would rather give a pig away rather than training one. I don't recommend you getting a pig if you're pregnant, have a new baby, just graduated, still in high school or on a whim. I know that some of these types of people would make excellent pig parents and they are the exception. A lot of people who will be going off to college aren't going to be able to take their pig with them, and again, your pig will grieve when you leave. Some pigs get so depressed they quit eating or drinking and it takes a special person to give that pig a reason to live again. If you aren't sure you will be able to handle it, don't get a pig.
RESCUE & REHOMING ORGANIZATIONS, FACEBOOK PAGES, FACEBOOK GROUPS AND WEBSITES :
Ross Mill Farms/PPN (pig placement network)
Mini Pig Info Adoptable Pigs (Facebook)
Mini Pig Info Group (Facebook)
Pig Placement Network
Pig rescues (There are pig rescues worldwide that would love for an experienced family to adopt one of their pigs)
RESCUING FROM CRAIGSLIST, INDIVIDUALS OR SHELTERS:
Pigs posted on craigslist are just as much in need for a home as the pigs posted in groups or in the animal shelters. The worst case scenarios are the pigs listed for free. This is scary because there are people out there who are looking for meat pigs or bait animals for dog fighting and all kinds of bad things. Someone who is attempting to rehome a pig on craigslist can be redirected to the appropriate channels to use to find an appropriate home, if they care to listen.
Patti McDermont states:
Did you know that Craigslist doesn't allow "pets for sale" ads. Yet pet pig breeders are using it daily to sell their teacups. Would you like to help stop this practice? It is easy.
Go to your local area Craigslist.
Under the category of "for sale" click on Farm & Garden.
Search for potbellied pig, pet pigs, teacup pigs or any and all other terms you can think of.
If you find an ad "selling" a pig then click on the "prohibited" button, it should change to "flagged".
If you click on the "?" next to prohibited you will see that Craigslist encourages you to flag inappropriate ads.
***If/when you come across someone that is NOT a breeder but needs to find a new home for their pig, DON'T FLAG
Please contact them and share with them the work that Pig Placement Network can to do to assist them with rehoming their pig. Perhaps you can help them as well.
Have them go to www.pigplacementnetwork.org
Click on Contact Us tab.
Complete General Contact Form (note: Under Surrender click on YES so that it goes to the appropriate person)
Stacey Davenport: "Craigslist ads are hard. I am always leary of someone getting a pig from Craigslist with no previous experience. A lot of people are jumping on the bandwagon of breeding thinking they will get rich quick or it would be fun. Some just buy pregnant stock from auctions or buy breeding stock. You should still ask these people all of the questions you would as a reputable breeder. Look at parents and parents conditions. We all know there are people out there that starve to keep small and breed young. Ask ages of parents and use your best educated judgement if you must have a $50 pig. Sometimes it hard not to get them because they are in bad situations but don't bite off more than you can chew."
Stephanie Matlock: When considering adopting a pig from craigslist I don't believe there is a right or wrong way to make the decision. There is absolutely no right or wrong pig to rescue. There is absolutely no unadoptable or adoptable pig. It comes down to the right match between adopter and pig. If your goal is to rescue a pig that will fit well with your family and meet certain criteria you have, such as good health, size limit, temperament, training, adaptability with kids/pets, well mannered inside the house, etc then you are going to be looking for a certain pig-- and that's fine!! On the other hand if your goal is to save a life you may be looking for a pig that NEEDS you, one that is malnourished, one that wasn't blessed with a loving family that took the time to train, one that grew bigger than her initial family expected, one that was tossed aside for one reason or another. When choosing a pig, there are many factors to consider, but that does not make the "less popular" pigs a bad choice! Some pigs will be more challenging than others, have different needs, and be a good fit for a different person or family. Please do not get hung up on what others think you should or shouldn't adopt. This is an absolutely personal decision that can only be made by you, because only you know what is important to you, what you can handle, and what you want out of the adoption. One may see a sick pig as a red flag. Another will see a sick pig as exactly what they want. The MOST IMPORTANT thing when adopting any animal is to know exactly what you can handle and know exactly what you are getting. The MOST IMPORTANT goal here is for the pig to get her happily ever after story. You are doing no one a favor by adopting a pig you cannot handle, that will not have the quality of life she deserves, or that is returned or rehomed.
Brittany Sawyer: Remember, people lie. Breeders lie. People make promises they can't possibly keep. Had I known there were so many pig rescues and so many unwanted pigs, I NEVER would've bought a piglet. I have fostered, rescued and purchased pigs. I have transported unwanted pigs to their news homes and helped network homes for pigs that couldn't stay in their current situation. Pigs are everywhere, sad thing is...you can't GIVE a pig away these days and it makes me sick to see people paying 1000's of dollars to buy a pig that will be the same size as everyone else's. Please consider adopting a pig in need before you buy a pig. They really are everywhere....craigslist, PPN (pig placement network) pig rescues and even on social media. Every. Single. Day. You give us an area you're looking in and I bet we can find a pig that will meet you and your family's needs.
Written and compiled by Stephanie Matlock 2014
Edited by Brittany Sawyer 2015
Susan from Ross Mill Farms Howcast Video: How to adopt a pet pig
http://www.howcast.com/videos/516073-how-to-adopt-a-pig-pet-pigs
Well, I will always push for someone to rescue versus buying a pig from a breeder. There are pigs posted DAILY on Facebook needing homes, PPN (Pig Placement Network) is a great place to start. They have a running list of pigs needing homes and families wanting pigs that have been approved for adoption. Pigs are posted in all the pig groups needing homes on Facebook. There are animal control centers and shelters with pigs, there are pigs listed all over craigslist. Older pigs, special needs pigs, piglets, 4 week old pigs, 6 month old pigs, pink pigs, black pigs, Juliana pigs, whatever kind of pig you're looking for can be found for a small rehoming fee or even sometimes free. (unfortunately) People can't give pigs away and there are others paying hundreds, sometimes thousands for the same pigs we see posted online that are needing homes. There are good breeders and there are bad breeders. There are good rescues and there are bad rescues. Not all breeders are lumped into the same category, just as all rescues and sanctuaries are not the same. Research, ask a lot of questions. Look for a person who has excellent breeding standards and ask others what their experiences have been with that person. Research, research, research!!!!
FACTORS TO CONSIDER BEFORE RESCUING OR ADOPTING:
The beauty of rescuing or adopting a pig is that you can get an idea of the pigs individual needs and personality, much more so than you can with a very young piglet. This gives you a chance to find the pig or your dreams without waiting to see if they mature to your ideas of what they should be. Adopting an older pig increases the chances of you keeping tour pig. An old pig CAN learn new tricks! Some older pigs have special medical needs, just be sure to get as much information as you can to ensure your home is a good fit.
This pigs particular needs: It's NOT a matter of whether this pig is a good pig to adopt or not. It's a matter of whether YOU can meet this pig's particular needs, to give her a quality of life without putting strain on yourself and your family. A perfect match. There will be positives and negatives with any pig, find a level balance to make your decision. Ask a lot of questions. Ask these questions to yourself. do you have the financial means to care for a pig? Do you have a yard for a pig? Is the yard fenced in securely? (This is not only to stop your pig from running away or getting out, but also from predators getting into your pigs area) Do you have time for a pig? Remember, its not as easy to find someone to watch your pig as it is to find someone to watch your dog. Pigs get territorial and upset when you leave them. Do you have young children? Pigs have to be trained much like any animal, but pigs get frustrated and can nip and bite before they're trained, children often drop food as they walk and eat and a pig will quickly figure this put and stalk kids to get their leftovers. Some pigs get obsessed with this kind of behavior and will jump up on the kids to get a bite, this can go further into full blown food aggression. (Just something to think about)
History of pig: What breeder did the pig come from? What type of family situation was she is? Why was she given up? Has this family ever had a pig before? What happened to that pig?
Health: Look for signs of health to determine if you are in a position to care for this pig. Does this pig need to lose or gain weight? Does this pig walk with a limp? Is this pig agile and/or able to move about freely without any issues? Some pigs will have congenital defects, genetic diseases, nutritional deficiencies, painful obesity, injuries that need medical attention, contagious infections or parasites. Can you handle the health & future medical costs of this pig? Is this a special needs pig that will require ongoing medical care?
Spayed or Neutered: Pet pigs should ALWAYS be spayed or neutered. Any rescued pig should NEVER ever ever be bred. Intact pigs do not typically make good pets, and rescued pigs do not make good breeding stock. If the pig up for adoption is not spayed/neutered you will need to figure that cost into the adoption. Rescue organizations that do not spay/neuter prior to adoption would be a big red flag.
** On a personal note, I rescued an unneutered pig who was just as sweet as could be for the first 2 days he was at my home. The 3rd day, he was vaccinated for his upcoming neuter procedure, which was scheduled for 4 weeks after he received his tetanus vaccine. Days after being at my home, this rescue pig turned aggressive and stabbed my leg with his 4-5 inch tusk. I ended up with an awful leg infection from this as well. I share this because I wasn't aware that boars could NOT be trusted, I let my guard down too quick and trusted that he didn't want to hurt any of us at my house, but I was wrong. He has became increasingly more aggressive and mean ever since. I know hormones are a lot of the problem, but this kind of behavior has likely also become part of his routine. He will be neutered tomorrow actually, and I will begin to work with him without the fear of being attacked. (He will also have his tusks trimmed to a safe size). It won't be easy, but I love him very much and wouldn't ever throw him away or discard him because he is acting like an intact boar. Just keep this in mind if you rescue an intact pig. their behaviors can sometimes be challenging, so please spay and neuter ASAP.
**updated update, You can read Huckleberry's story by clicking here. His retraining was quite successful and he turned into the sweetest pig you could ever imagine, BUT, it was quite a challenge for a number of months. Keep this in mind if you decide to bring an unaltered pig into your home. He did successfully find a great loving home after being neutered and retrained.
Weight, Body Condition: If the pig is underweight she will need some really good nutrition to bring her back to health. Depending on severity of the malnutrition she can have very expensive and heartbreaking long term effects of the malnutrition. The reason for the malnutrition is also important. She could have simply been underfed or fed the wrong foods. Or she could be riddled with parasites. Or she could have a disease that is preventing her from absorbing the nutrients. Either way, she will need to see a vet ASAP. Obesity is another concern to consider. Obese pigs NEED to lose weight for their health and quality of life. The weight doesn't come off easy. Obese pigs may be grouchy due to expecting a constant supply of food. They may be food aggressive because they have been taught that food is free. This can all be worked on and fixed, BUT you need to know what you are getting into to make the best decision for yourself and the adoptable pig. An overweight pig may be fat blind or have arthritis from being overweight for a long period of time and have difficulty walking or moving around. An underweight pig may show signs go aggression because its constantly hungry and the nutritional needs are never met leaving that pig hungry all the time. Malnourished pigs can suffer bone abnormalities because they were never fed the proper diet and their bones and organs had to adapt. They usually have immunity problems and get sick often. Sometimes they're not even able to walk. Click here to go to the how to identify of a pig is under or over weight section.
Living conditions: Has the pig lived indoors or outdoors? Is the pig potty trained? Does she use a litterbox or potty outside? Does this pig sleep inside in a crate and play outside during the day? Does this pig have a large backyard or enclosed pen for outside time? If the pig is already accustomed to a setup similar to your own home that will be the easiest transition. If there are differences in her previous home and new home then you need to understand those differences to make the transition smooth for her. Was she given preventative & medical care, vaccines, deworming, hoof trimming, are the tusks appropriate length. Pigs like routine, they get upset when the routine changes, but can adapt to a new routine. This takes time. It takes time whether you decide to rescue a pig or whether you get a piglet.
Training and desensitization: Was she taught to accept hoof trims, accept human leadership, take treats nicely, physical restraint like for doctors visits, picking up, leash training, baths? These are all factors to consider in making your decision, but NOT to dissuade you. Everything can be worked on. It's only a matter to consider to make sure you are up for the challenge of THIS PARTICULAR PIG and her needs.
Individual personality: Is she social? Is she a loner? Does she crave human affection? Is she a smarty pants in need of lots of mental stimulation? Is she a lazy butt and would rather snooze while you watch tv? Does she want to travel the world (or woods hiking) with you? Would she rather stay put in her safety zone with her favorite family members? Does she want to run outside and play all day? Does she like to cuddle? Or is she not a cuddler? Is she destructive? (which typically indicates a bored pig) Is she a digger? Does she like car rides? Is she constantly into things she shouldn't be getting into?
Choosing a breeder or rescue is one of the most important considerations when adding a pig to the family. The right breeder or rescue will provide you with a healthy, robust, socialized pig/piglet to become part of your family. In the case of rescues you may have socialization or health challenges to help the adopted pig through, but honesty and support from the rescue will ensure a smooth transition. BREEDER info on top RESCUE info below.
QUESTIONS TO ASK THE BREEDER:
· How long have you been breeding mini pigs?
· Why did you choose these two pigs for breeding?
· What age do you start breeding your pigs (male and female)?
· How old are the parents now? (Pigs aren't done growing until 3-5 years old. Younger than this will now show their full growth potential). Ask for proof of age.
· Do the parents have any genetic faults you know of?
· Have the parents suffered from any diseases or health problems?
· What age do you take the piglets from mom? Do you have a set schedule or do you let mom decide?
· Do you ship or transport across state lines? What veterinary care or certificates do you provide for this? Have you used this airline or transport service before?
· Do you clip needle teeth?
· Do you vaccinate and deworm the babies? Ask for proof of this as well. Was mom dewormed before the piglets were born?
· What other healthcare do they receive before they come home?
· What types of socialization, training, desensitizing do you do for the piglets? (Litter training, picking up, holding, baths, harness, etc)
· Are the piglets born inside or outside? If they are born outside, do you bring them inside after they are weaned for more human contact?
· Do you neuter males before they are sent to their new families?
· Do you spay females before they are sent to their new families?
· Will you take back the pig in the event my family is no longer able to care for him/her?
· What breeder did your breeding stock come from?
· What size have previous piglets grown to from these parents?
· What enrichment do you provide to give your breeder pigs a good quality of life?
· What food do you recommend?
· What type of litter was the baby trained on?
· Have you retired any of your breeding stock? Why was that particular pig retired?
· What vaccination schedule do you recommend, and why?
· What veterinarian do you use and why did you choose him or her?
· Do you have any other customers I can speak to or references?
· Also ask for a vet reference, good breeders have a vet they routinely use.
CHOOSING A PIGLET:
· Piglets should be active, alert, and appear healthy.
· A piglet should have open eyes free of crust or discharge
· A piglet should be well rounded without prodtruding bones
· There should be no signs of illness
· The piglet should be having solid bowel movements and urinating appropriately
· They should be clean and free of odors (unless they have been traveling in a crate)
· Healthy hair & smooth skin free of rashes, irritations, bumps, scaling, or bald patches
· Piglets should be proportional. Straight tails. Deformity free. Skin condition should be checked. Not overly dry or red. They should be friendly and not timid of human contact. Steady gait. Clear eyes.
· Piglets should also be eating solid foods before going to their new homes and completely weaned from mom.
****RED FLAGS-BREEDERS (OR RESCUES, AS APPLICABLE) TO AVOID:****
· The breeder should have a take back policy. If they will not take back the pig at ANY time in it's life, for ANY reason, then this is a breeder to avoid. It should be important to the breeder to always know where ALL their babies are, to make sure they are well cared for throughout their life. This is the cost of bringing lives into the world; you are responsible to the end.
· If a breeder takes piglets from mom before 6-8 weeks, AVOID THIS BREEDER. This is not safe for the piglet or the adoptive family.
· If a breeder or rescuer doesn't ask YOU questions on your suitability for a pet pig, then run. They should care where their babies are going and how they will live. Breeders should ask questions on your experience, your research of pigs, your family situation, kids or other pets in the household, to make sure you have a pig experienced vet, adequate fencing, housing of the pig (indoors, outdoors, and weather appropriate accommodations).
· Pigs should be altered before sale or adoption. Spay/neuter contracts are impossible to enforce. If the pig doesn't get fixed or is rehomed before altering then they may suffer from mistreatment due to hormonal behaviors, unscrupulous breeding practices, or cancers and infections of the reproductive system. If a person or organization is willing to adopt out an intact pig then they are not motivated 100% by the pigs best interest. This could be to misinformation, selfishness, urgency, or other factors. There are situations where a pig needs to be rehomed before a spay or neuter surgery can be done or afforded, but in this case you need to take the situation into consideration to make sure they are not bending the truth or deceiving in other areas in order to "get rid of" the pig.
· If you have had pigs in the family previously the breeder or rescuer will want to know what happened to those pigs, if they were rehomed or died (and how they died).
· These are all common questions asked by rescue organizations that rehome animals of all sorts-- a responsible breeder will want to ask all the same questions to ensure their babies are going to be treated respectfully and responsibly, for their entire life.
· Your personal feelings on euthanasia may be asked-- do not be alarmed. Opinions on this practice will vary by individuals, but a responsible breeder will want families that share their views.
· Breeders should ask what you will do if an expensive veterinary bill comes up.
· Feeding should be addressed before taking home piglet/pig to make sure the new families are aware of nutritional needs of the pig.
· If a breeder or rescuer is ready to hand over a pig without asking some or all of these questions, then beware-- they may not be around when you need them the most.
*Gender confusion: If a rescue or breeder is confused on the gender of a pig, RED FLAG! This does not mean do not adopt. (If a breeder doesn't know the correct gender, RUN!). This means they are not educated enough on pigs to give you all the facts. If they are confused on gender then PLEASE consider any information they give you as a *may be true*. If you are not prepared for variables in the adopted pig then please seek a reputable rescue organization that can help you find the perfect match.
A GOOD BREEDER SHOULD
· Be knowledgeable- s/he should answer all your questions & provide as much info as you need
· Have lots of resources for you to research before and after
· Allow visits on site- you will want to see the parents in person and the conditions the piglets are raised in
· Make you sign a contract- the contract should protect you as the buyer in your investment as well as the pig
· Take back pig regardless of situation- good breeders don't want their pigs on Craigslist or in shelters. They will always take back their pigs to find a new suitable home.
· Allow contact before and after- your breeder will be a fountain of information and experience. You should feel welcome to contact him or her at any time, before or after bringing home baby.
· Talk about parents as much as the baby- the baby is a product of the parents. Size, health, genetics, disposition, personality, these all come from the parents. Your breeder should enjoy his/her adult pigs and have stories to tell about them.
· Provide health records
· Should tell you the cons of owning a pig and not just the pros
· Should spend time with piglets and know them in/out, forwards/backwards
· Have references of previous customers, as well as veterinarian
· If not spayed and neutered already, have separate contract for spays/neuter
· Explain vaccines, pro & cons, and why they are needed & risks involved
· Gives size expectations in height, NOT in weight
· Gives realistic size expectations-- no healthy adult pig will be 10-15 pounds
· Weans babies at an appropriate age and keeps the babies with their littermates until 6 weeks or more
· Spends time with the babies handling them and socializing them
· Ask you questions to make sure your family situation is ideal for a pet pig & to make sure you have the information you need to care for the piglet
· Continue to provide you support long after the pig is at your home. A great breeder keeps in touch with you and enjoys seeing the updated pictures of her grandpig.
· The piglets should go to their new home when they are on pelleted feed only-- no milk! A good breeder will not recommend anything other than a mini pig feed or an all natural diet.
CONSIDERATIONS BEFORE RESCUING
You need to prepare yourself for the possibility of an unloved pig. Typically people lose interest and the pig "needs" to be rehomed. This pig will be sad. A pig grieves much like humans do when we lose someone we love. This will be the case whether your pig comes from a rescue or a breeder. They grieve the ones they leave behind. Some rescues won't even adopt out a single pig, but only adopt in pairs for this reason. Failure to thrive is real and can be deadly if not handled appropriately. When a pig comes from someone you don't know, you need as much information as possible about he pigs past. You also need to quarantine this pig from any others you may have until medically cleared by your vet. Find out why the person could no longer keep the pig. Was it a preference? Were they moving? Was the pig having behavioral issues? Often times the previous owner could've reached out to the right people and gotten some insight on properly caring for a pet pig and eliminated the need to rehome it. Unfortunately, people would rather give a pig away rather than training one. I don't recommend you getting a pig if you're pregnant, have a new baby, just graduated, still in high school or on a whim. I know that some of these types of people would make excellent pig parents and they are the exception. A lot of people who will be going off to college aren't going to be able to take their pig with them, and again, your pig will grieve when you leave. Some pigs get so depressed they quit eating or drinking and it takes a special person to give that pig a reason to live again. If you aren't sure you will be able to handle it, don't get a pig.
RESCUE & REHOMING ORGANIZATIONS, FACEBOOK PAGES, FACEBOOK GROUPS AND WEBSITES :
Ross Mill Farms/PPN (pig placement network)
Mini Pig Info Adoptable Pigs (Facebook)
Mini Pig Info Group (Facebook)
Pig Placement Network
Pig rescues (There are pig rescues worldwide that would love for an experienced family to adopt one of their pigs)
RESCUING FROM CRAIGSLIST, INDIVIDUALS OR SHELTERS:
Pigs posted on craigslist are just as much in need for a home as the pigs posted in groups or in the animal shelters. The worst case scenarios are the pigs listed for free. This is scary because there are people out there who are looking for meat pigs or bait animals for dog fighting and all kinds of bad things. Someone who is attempting to rehome a pig on craigslist can be redirected to the appropriate channels to use to find an appropriate home, if they care to listen.
Patti McDermont states:
Did you know that Craigslist doesn't allow "pets for sale" ads. Yet pet pig breeders are using it daily to sell their teacups. Would you like to help stop this practice? It is easy.
Go to your local area Craigslist.
Under the category of "for sale" click on Farm & Garden.
Search for potbellied pig, pet pigs, teacup pigs or any and all other terms you can think of.
If you find an ad "selling" a pig then click on the "prohibited" button, it should change to "flagged".
If you click on the "?" next to prohibited you will see that Craigslist encourages you to flag inappropriate ads.
***If/when you come across someone that is NOT a breeder but needs to find a new home for their pig, DON'T FLAG
Please contact them and share with them the work that Pig Placement Network can to do to assist them with rehoming their pig. Perhaps you can help them as well.
Have them go to www.pigplacementnetwork.org
Click on Contact Us tab.
Complete General Contact Form (note: Under Surrender click on YES so that it goes to the appropriate person)
Stacey Davenport: "Craigslist ads are hard. I am always leary of someone getting a pig from Craigslist with no previous experience. A lot of people are jumping on the bandwagon of breeding thinking they will get rich quick or it would be fun. Some just buy pregnant stock from auctions or buy breeding stock. You should still ask these people all of the questions you would as a reputable breeder. Look at parents and parents conditions. We all know there are people out there that starve to keep small and breed young. Ask ages of parents and use your best educated judgement if you must have a $50 pig. Sometimes it hard not to get them because they are in bad situations but don't bite off more than you can chew."
Stephanie Matlock: When considering adopting a pig from craigslist I don't believe there is a right or wrong way to make the decision. There is absolutely no right or wrong pig to rescue. There is absolutely no unadoptable or adoptable pig. It comes down to the right match between adopter and pig. If your goal is to rescue a pig that will fit well with your family and meet certain criteria you have, such as good health, size limit, temperament, training, adaptability with kids/pets, well mannered inside the house, etc then you are going to be looking for a certain pig-- and that's fine!! On the other hand if your goal is to save a life you may be looking for a pig that NEEDS you, one that is malnourished, one that wasn't blessed with a loving family that took the time to train, one that grew bigger than her initial family expected, one that was tossed aside for one reason or another. When choosing a pig, there are many factors to consider, but that does not make the "less popular" pigs a bad choice! Some pigs will be more challenging than others, have different needs, and be a good fit for a different person or family. Please do not get hung up on what others think you should or shouldn't adopt. This is an absolutely personal decision that can only be made by you, because only you know what is important to you, what you can handle, and what you want out of the adoption. One may see a sick pig as a red flag. Another will see a sick pig as exactly what they want. The MOST IMPORTANT thing when adopting any animal is to know exactly what you can handle and know exactly what you are getting. The MOST IMPORTANT goal here is for the pig to get her happily ever after story. You are doing no one a favor by adopting a pig you cannot handle, that will not have the quality of life she deserves, or that is returned or rehomed.
Brittany Sawyer: Remember, people lie. Breeders lie. People make promises they can't possibly keep. Had I known there were so many pig rescues and so many unwanted pigs, I NEVER would've bought a piglet. I have fostered, rescued and purchased pigs. I have transported unwanted pigs to their news homes and helped network homes for pigs that couldn't stay in their current situation. Pigs are everywhere, sad thing is...you can't GIVE a pig away these days and it makes me sick to see people paying 1000's of dollars to buy a pig that will be the same size as everyone else's. Please consider adopting a pig in need before you buy a pig. They really are everywhere....craigslist, PPN (pig placement network) pig rescues and even on social media. Every. Single. Day. You give us an area you're looking in and I bet we can find a pig that will meet you and your family's needs.
Written and compiled by Stephanie Matlock 2014
Edited by Brittany Sawyer 2015
Susan from Ross Mill Farms Howcast Video: How to adopt a pet pig
http://www.howcast.com/videos/516073-how-to-adopt-a-pig-pet-pigs
The importance of pigs staying with their mothers
Why do we stress the importance of piglets remaining with mom until it is time for the process of them to be weaned? Not to mention the good behaviors that they learn from mom here are a few health benefits that they get from the mothers milk! Pulling a piglet to BOTTLE FEED them is NOT beneficial. It does NOT create a better bond with you and your piglet and in the long run can create more problems. Click here to read about underage piglets.
Colostrum
Unlike human babies and puppies, no antibodies are transferred through the placenta from the sow to her piglets before birth. Normally, piglets are born in a vulnerable state without any humoral or mucosal associated antibodies and no acquired cell-mediated immunity. Fortunately, towards the end of gestation when the sow's mammary glands develop, the first secretion they produce, colostrum, is rich in antibodies representing the whole spectrum of the sow's own circulating antibodies. A first instinct of the newborn piglet is to find and suck a teat. Normally, a sow has voluntary control over milk let down, but during farrowing this control is weak. The piglets nuzzle the teat and surrounding gland and then suck the teat. This results in a rapid let-down of colostrum. In the first twelve to twenty four hours of life the piglet's intestines are able to absorb whole antibodies before the enzymes in the intestines digest them. Consequently, within a short period after a good first suck, the piglet's blood contains the full spectrum of its dam's antibodies often at about the same level as that of the sow.
Four points must be emphasized.
By Nicole Cox 2015
Sources: http://www.thepigsite.com/acquired-specific-immunity
Colostrum
Unlike human babies and puppies, no antibodies are transferred through the placenta from the sow to her piglets before birth. Normally, piglets are born in a vulnerable state without any humoral or mucosal associated antibodies and no acquired cell-mediated immunity. Fortunately, towards the end of gestation when the sow's mammary glands develop, the first secretion they produce, colostrum, is rich in antibodies representing the whole spectrum of the sow's own circulating antibodies. A first instinct of the newborn piglet is to find and suck a teat. Normally, a sow has voluntary control over milk let down, but during farrowing this control is weak. The piglets nuzzle the teat and surrounding gland and then suck the teat. This results in a rapid let-down of colostrum. In the first twelve to twenty four hours of life the piglet's intestines are able to absorb whole antibodies before the enzymes in the intestines digest them. Consequently, within a short period after a good first suck, the piglet's blood contains the full spectrum of its dam's antibodies often at about the same level as that of the sow.
Four points must be emphasized.
- Without maternal antibodies the piglet is highly susceptible to infection. It is essential for the piglet's survival that it drinks colostrum soon after birth before pathogenic micro-organisms have had time to multiply and invade. It is also essential that it ingest enough colostrum to provide adequate protection until it has actively produced its own humoral antibodies.
- The ability of the piglet's intestine to absorb colostral antibody is short-lived, but is shortened still further when the piglet has drunk. Thus, if a piglet that has had no colostrum, is to be cross-fostered onto another sow, or given substitute colostrum orally, it should be done in the first few hours of life and no other nutrients should be given in advance. The fostering sow must also still have colostrum available.
- Being passively acquired the amount of antibody in the blood stream is finite and can be exhausted by exposure to excessive antigen. Put another way, there is a maximum amount of colostral antibody that a pig can absorb into its blood stream. Overwhelming doses of bacteria will use it all up.
- The passively acquired colostral antibodies in the blood gradually waste away to about half the initial level by about ten to fourteen days, although they may persist at a reasonably protective level against most pathogenic antigens for six to twelve weeks. The time taken to decline to ineffective levels varies depending upon the amount of colostral antibody taken in by the piglet and on the type of infection or toxin against which the antibody acts. In some exceptional cases (e.g. against Mycoplasma hyopneumoniae, parvovirus and Leptospira bratislava they may persist much longer, sometimes up to four and a half months.
- Milk Mucosally-associated antibodies are present as IgA and secretory IgA in colostrum but at low levels relative to the other types of antibody (IgG and IgM). However, the normal milk which follows colostrum contains sufficient secretory IgA to get absorbed in the surface mucus and protect the piglets intestines provided the piglet sucks the sow every one to two hours. This is sometimes called lactogenic immunity.
By Nicole Cox 2015
Sources: http://www.thepigsite.com/acquired-specific-immunity
