Just an example of one emergency supply kit. Not everything in the kit is pictured.

Emergency Supplies, phone numbers & websites To Have On Hand

A full list of supplies including recommended doses is posted below.

Quick supplies to have on hoof! 
Gloves- to maintain clean conditions and protect yourself from potential contaminants. 
Ivermectin - treatment is every 3-4 months (generic ok)
Safeguard - treatment is 2 x year
Injectible penicillin - dose depends on ailment. An injectable bottle of Penicillin G can be purchased at Tractor Supply Stores. Having this on hand may save your pigs life. We recommend that you do NOT use unless directed to do by your vet.                          
Rescue remedy - to help pigs relax during stressful times 
Activated charcoal -to use after ingestion of toxic foods ONLY under advice of veterinarian
Hydrogen peroxide 3% - to induce vomiting ONLY under advice of veterinarian
Triple antibiotic ointment - can be applied to most minor scrapes and abrasions 
Vaseline/KY Jelly - to lube thermometer 
Thermometer (for rectal use only) preferably a digital thermometer 
Syringes of different sizes, needles to draw up medications and oral - to administer vaccines, antibiotics, dewormers
Hooflex- helps with minor cracks and issue with hooves
Styptic powder aka Quick Stop - for hoof bleeding during trim
Superglue - for hoof bleeding during trim 
Bag Balm- treatment of "hot spots" and other abrasions 
Ice pack- (or a package of frozen peas kept in freezer) for injuries or cooling down an overheated pig 
Pepcid and/or Prilosec- ulcer treatment/prevention (use only under the advice of your vet)
Fan - used on hot days and to cool an overheated pig
Pepto Bismal- for upset stomach (use only when or as directed by your vet)
Heating pad, microwavable rice sock, or water bottle with warm water 
Q-tips/baby wipes/fingers - to clean outside of ear 
Moving items - Crate, ramp, sling, anything you need to move a sick or immobile pig PLAN AHEAD!
Canned pumpkin - tummy upset, treats diarrhea or constipation (NOT PUMPKIN PUREE)
Coconut water/Pedilite  - encourages hydration during times of stress or illness (can try other juices/drink/broth *low sodium/sugar)
Karo Syrup or honey - to increase blood sugar levels quickly and encourage eating (spread in the gums)
Vetericyn- multiple types available. General wounds/abrasions, eye wash, pink eye spray, etc.
Aspirin- enteric coated 81mg tablets (multiple purposes, but NOT for a fever)
Children's Tylenol- 160mg per 5ml is the usual concentration (pain, fever)
Epsom Salt- for wound/abscess soaks
Mineral Oil- for use in constipated pigs (with your vets blessing)
Benadryl- 25 mg tablets for hives or swelling
Rubbing alcohol- for use in overheated pigs to rub on hooves to help lower the core temperature 
Hydrocortisone cream- for various itching related issues
Gauze- multiple functions, usually for wound care or meriplex dressing to hold other items in place. 

Things to have on hand, to help your pig UNTIL you get to the veterinarian: Links to some of these items can be found on our recommended product page which you can access by clicking here. 

• Strawberry Koolaid (or any other flavor) – for pigs who do not want to drink, or have low blood sugar.  Can be used to give some meds since it can mask the taste of a bitter compound.
• Gatorade (regular/original) or Pedialyte – balanced electrolyte solutions to replace fluid lost if vomiting or diarrhea occur.
• Low sodium chicken broth – can be used to replace fluid lost if vomiting or diarrhea occur.
• Campbell’s vegetable soup – many pigs will eat this when it is warmed up when they will not eat anything else.  
• Canned pumpkin – high fiber to help if constipation or diarrhea occur.
• Applesauce – many pigs will eat this when they have poor appetite. Can be used to hide medication.
• Heating pad – for the cold pig. Set on low so piggie doesn't get burned. Also adds security for new pigs – they sleep better on those first nights home. NEVER use these long term or unsupervised.           
• Karo syrup – a sugar source to help very cold or inappetant pigs, pigs with low blood sugar (hypoglycemia).
• Sugar – 1 teaspoonful in a cup of warm water can be put on gums to raise blood sugar of cold pigs. They do not have to drink it, it can be absorbed through the mucous membranes of the lips and gums.
• Instant oatmeal – many pigs will eat warm oatmeal when they do not eat anything else.
• A few syringes of different sizes or a turkey baster so that you can give liquids orally.
• A digital thermometer – to be used rectally (get one for only pig use).
• A fan for cooling.
• Ice packs (or frozen peas in a bag) for cooling and in case of a injury to a leg. Put a small towel between the ice pack and the skin.
• Honey – a sugar source for cold pigs – rub some on the gums. Can also be mixed in with canned pumpkin if they are reluctant to eat it.
• Full spectrum light (SAD light) – can be obtained online. Provides sunlight for pigs that are indoors only - needed so that Vitamin D can be produced and used.  10 minutes per day. Especially useful for piglets.
• Kwik Stop – a styptic powder to help bleeding hooves if you quick them during trimming. DO NOT USE ON SKIN because it can burn the tissue.
• Super glue – if you quick a claw during trimming, you can glue a cotton ball onto bleeding area and it will stop. Cotton will fall off or can be removed later.
• Q-tips & KY jelly – can be used to lubricate and moisten tissue.  A small amount on a q-tip can be used to clean the outside of the ear and also lubricate a digital thermometer. Do NOT use Vaseline or Petroleum based products on your pigs otherwise, this leads to fungal infections. 
• Handy bandage material (in case of a cut, scrape, etc) gauze, meriplex, even bandaids.
• Disposable diapers, reusable puppy pads (chucks) or sanitary napkins – clean absorbant material, easy to store and always have about.
• Masking tape (does not stick to skin, but sticks to bandage material)
• A couple of pairs of athletic socks or some boots made for dogs – to cover feet.
• 1 inch white bandage tape, rolled gauze and vet wrap.
• Penicillin G- having this on hand, especially for those who don't have easy access to a vet can easily save your pig life should your pig get sick and need an antibiotic. This must be given via injection and vet care should still take place, but having this on hand can give you a little time to get your pig to the vet. This can be purchased at Tractor Supply Stores. You will also need to buy syringe and needles in order to give this injectable antibiotic. 
• Bleach (multiple uses from injuries to sanitizing areas)
• Epsom Salt - epsom salt (magnesium sulfate) has many uses, but this is typically used for enemas or to relieve sore muscles. 

Helpful over-the-counter drugs to have on hand:
  
For Upset Stomach (vomiting, not eating, diarrhea)

• Omprazole/Prilosec - 5-10 mg once a day
• Famotidine/Pepcid - 0.25-0.5 mg per pound of body weight
• Ranitidine/Zantac  - 150 mg twice a day
• Pepto Bismol - 1 cc per pound of body weight - may make the stool black
• Kaopectate - 1 cc per pound of body weight - may make the stool black
• Maalox liquid (for stomach gas) - 2 cc per 5 pounds of body weight

For diarrhea lasting more than a day, your pig needs to be seen by a vet. 

For Pain

• Buffered aspirin - 5 mg per pound of body weight twice a day. Must be buffered and given with food. Do not give if your pig is not eating and do not give for more than 3 days without seeing your vet. If there is a possibility of internal bleeding, Aspirin should NOT be used as this can lead to complications.
• Children's liquid Tylenol - 1 ml or cc (ml and cc are the same thing and used interchangeably) per every 6 lbs of body weight every 8 hours. (the usual concentration is 160 mg for every 5 ml of the suspension)

Many people have asked about liquid ibuprofen children’s syrup (also called brufen liquid). I know that this compound is frequently used in the UK, but I was unable to find a recommended dose in the US. As a matter of fact, pharmacologists in the US uniformly advise against use of ibuprofen, in pigs. As such, it has not been added to this list.

For Constipation  (they need high fiber diet)

• Metamucil – start with 1 tbsp power in yogurt every 6 hours.  Gradually build up to 1 packet every 6 hours
• DSS / docusate sodium (stool softener) - 200-240 mg per pig twice a day
• Fleet's enema
• Mineral oil (can be given orally or rectally) 1 tsp with a meal
• Hydration is VERY important, be sure your pig is drinking water
• Mobility- a pig that isn't moving around will have constipation issues

If no significant stool in 48 hours, see your vet....

For Itching / Hives / Swollen Eyes

• Diphenhydramine / Benadryl - 1 mg per pound of body weight every 6-8 hours (maximum amount given should NOT exceed 75mg/three 25mg tablets) 
• Natural tear eye drops. Be sure to look for foreign materials that may have gotten in the eye and remove is this is something easily removed. If you are unsure or the object is deeply imbedded, Do NOT try to remove this yourself because you can cause more damage to the eye. 

For Weeping Eyes

• Terramycin ophthalmic ointment (available at feed store).  Put a small amount in each eye twice a day
• Saline eye flush 
• Vetericyn eye wash and eye spray
• Warm damp cloth to gently remove any debris
• Check for any kind of irritant that may have gotten in the eye. (This can be dirt or dust from straw, etc) If the weeping continues or your pig won't open its eyes, you may need to take your pig to the vet so they can use a special dye and special light to check for the presence of a foreign object or corneal abrasions.

To Kill Many Parasites (see parasite section for additional information)

• Ivermectin 1% injectable (for oral)  10 mg/ml . 0.1 – 0.2 ml per 10 pounds of body weight. Mix in yogurt or fruit juice and they will slurp it right down. This medication does NOT have to be injected, it can be given orally or mixed with something your pig will eat.
• Fenbendazole dewormer (for oral) Safegard for goats, 10% suspension (100 ml/ml) is an excellent choice. 

For Coughing Pigs ( Click here to see reasons why your pig may be coughing. This needs to be differentiated from choking.)

• Children's cough syrup – (dextromethorphan 15 mg per 10 ml) – 10 ml  per pig twice a day.

For small scrapes/abrasions

• Vetercyin wound and infection treatment (can be purchased online or at Tractor Supply Stores)
• Do NOT use peroxide as a cleaning agent, use soap and water to cleanse the wound before adding any kind of anti-infective.

For external bleeding due to trauma (Click here to see our wound care section)

• Apply pressure and elevate as much as possible. Trying to lift the area of injury (if you can safely do this) above the level of the heart can slow the bleeding down. If you are seeing "shooting blood" or you aren't able to control the bleeding, your pig needs to be seen by the ER vet.

For Pigs that have Ingested Poison (Click here to read more about items known to be toxic to pigs)
Call poison control 1-888-426-4435. https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control (ASPCA National Animal Poison Control) - available 24 hours a day or Pet Poison Hotline 1-855-764-7661. http://www.petpoisonhelpline.com, also available 24/7.
There is a fee for either organization, so have credit card ready. Also, have the package, if applicable, with you when you make the call so you can tell them exactly what your pig ingested. If you don't know what your pig ate, neither do they. They cant give you instructions without knowing what your pig ingested.   
***Warning – vomiting is not always good after a pig ingests a poison.  Call poison control or your ER vet first***

• Hydrogen Peroxide 3% (in the brown bottle, for wounds) - can be given orally (by syringe) to induce vomiting

          Dose:  approximately 5 cc per 10 pounds of body weight

• Activated charcoal – Adheres to any toxin left in the digestive tract and prevents pig from absorbing it – get the liquid or powdered form (the tablets/granules are not nearly as effective). Watch out – this stuff is messy and will stain anything.  Comes out in the stool and the stool will also stain everything. Dose:  adult pigs (over 30 pounds- 0.5 ml per pound of body weight) Young pigs (less than 30 pounds– 0.1 ml per pound of body weight.  Can be repeated in 8 hours. Click here to read more about using activated charcoal and the potential dangers.
• Mineral oil- will aid the stomach in digestion and/or NOT absorb the toxic agent and facilitate movement through the digestive system. 

For Pregnant or Farrowing Sows

• Oxytocin - 2-4 units subcutaneously (milk letdown, retained placenta, augment uterine contractions, agalactiasyndrome, post partum metritis)
• Calcium Gluconate 10% - 20 cc subcutaneously in several (4) different spots  (augment uterine contractions)Colostrum substitute (such as Ultra-Start Colostrum) in case babies cannot nurse
• Goat’s milk or milk substitute in case babies cannot nurse

Updated 2016 by MPI team, originally written by Cathy Zolicani, DVM
Original Post https://www.facebook.com/groups/welovepotbellypigs

Pet First Aid Tips
Do you know what to do during a pet emergency? Here are some common emergency tips:

• To determine if your pig is dehydrated, pull up on the skin between the shoulder blades. It should spring right back; if it stays tented this is a sign of dehydration. This may be harder to do on bigger pigs as their skin is usually right taunt. This is called "tenting" in human medicine and is used frequently to assess the level of dehydration. If you pinch the skin and move your fingers up so the skin is in the shape of a tent, it should flatten easily, if it "tents", your pig may be dehydrated. 
• Signs of pet poisoning include bleeding externally or internally, dilated pupils, drooling or foaming at the mouth, seizures or other abnormal mental state or behavior.
• If your pet has a seizure, make sure it is in a safe place, but do not restrain the animal. Keep your hands away from its mouth as your pet may not know who you are during a seizure and could bite you.
• Signs of heat stroke or heat exhaustion include collapse; body temperature of 104 degrees F or above; bloody diarrhea or vomiting; wobbliness; excessive panting or difficulty breathing; increase heart rate; mucous membranes very red; and increased salivation. As you know, pigs do not sweat like other animals, so heat exhaustion/stroke can occur rapidly if they have no area to cool down such as a mud pit or kiddo pool. If you see your pig "panting", this is an emergency. Your pig needs to be cooled down now. Do not submerge your pig in cold water, this is not an effective or safe method to bring the core body temperature down.
• Pets bitten by other animals need vet attention to prevent the wound (even if minor) from becoming infected and to check for internal wounds. Never break up a fight yourself because you could be bitten. (unless you have a sorting board to place between the two animals that protects you)
• If your pet is bleeding, apply direct pressure using gauze over the bleeding site. If blood soaks through, apply more gauze (do not removed soaked gauze) until you can reach a veterinary hospital. Click here for additional wound care information. 

Phone numbers and websites to have saved/bookmarked
There is also a pig toxicity section on the website, there is a button below (toxic list) that will take you to that page.
ASPCA
https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control
Phone number- (888) 426-4435. A $65 consultation fee may be applied to your credit card
Cornell University's livestock plant toxicity list/searchable database
http://www.ansci.cornell.edu/plants

Toxic List

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