"Rooting" For More Info? These are the most commonly asked questions.
Written by Brittany Sawyer 03/2015
We have several different sections of our website that discuss many different things with regards to the health and care of pigs. We have vet lists, new pig parent sections, pages that discuss common and not so common diseases and illnesses, troubleshooting behavioral issues, emergency preparedness, even basic anatomy pages plus lots more. Take some time and go through the different pages and learn as much as you can about pigs. We do have a "table of contents" page so you can quickly find information when needed that you can access by clicking here.
How big will my pig get?
Each pig will be different. Genetics plays the most important factor in how big your pig will grow. No one can give you definitive answers to this question. Some pigs have a growth spurt in the first year, some have several. Each pig may grow and develop differently than someone else pig. The amount of food you feed needs to balance the activity level of your pig though. Pigs are considered fully mature when the long plates in the epiphyseal bones close. This typically occurs around 5 years of age. Some pigs gain large amounts of weight and grow longer and taller during much of the first year, while others grow at a consistent rate throughout several years. Pigs will continue to gain weight as long as they're fed more food than what their body is using, so they can gain weight forever. They don't stop gaining weight at any magical age. Everyone has their own experiences. My vet told me that typically their biggest growth spurts are in the first year (typically, but not always) and about 1/2 of what he expects a pig to weigh at maturity is gained that first year. The second year 1/4 and the third year 1/4. Pigs don't really reach maturity (this is the debatable part) until around 5 years old. So they will always gain weight if their exercise doesn't balance out their caloric intake. That's any living breathing creature. The more you eat, the more you have to do to maintain the balance. They don't usually grow a whole lot more after 3, they may grow inches or fractions of an inch in height or length, but the first couple of years sets the tone for the rest of their life. A healthy diet is how they will flourish. (Click here to read more about nutrition) Enough food to maintain healthy growth, provide immunity, and develop healthy routines. But not so much that they have achy joints or immobility or eyesight taken away by fat. It's sooooo easy to gain and sooooo hard to get that excess weight off these guys. You can not control how tall or long your pig will get, you DO control how much weight they gain. There are always exceptions to this though, such as, a pig who was starved for the first few years, once placed on an appropriate diet, this pig may grow excessively through years 4-5. There really is no one right answer except they are NOT considered mature when they're 2 years old. Click here to see some of our followers pigs growth documentation they've allowed us to publish on the website to get a better understanding of how all pigs grow at different rates. Click here to read about the "teacup" and "micro" pigs that do not exist.
Ziggy Harness wrote "Ziggy didn't hit his first growth spurt until he was 1. Went from 40 pounds to 80 in 2 months. At 4 years old he was 250lbs. More to love!"
Sherry Boley says "My female stayed around 40-60 lbs up until she hit a year old and then holy moly, there was a growth spurt. She seemed to thicken overnight. She's turned two years old this past March and now weighs about 120 lbs. Don't be surprised if your grows quickly too."
Taylor Burns said "Mine was about 40 lbs at a year and pushing 80 by the second year. Seems like they double each year for the first 2 years and then start to taper after that.. Gaining mass mostly."
Susan Robertson says "My vet uses the general rule of thumb that a pig should gain approximately 1 pound a week for the first year."
How long does it take before my pig will come to me?
Each pig will be different in their coping abilities and how they will react to a new home. Your pig may be grieving the loss of its mother, siblings or even its human family. A bond between a pig and a person takes some time. Get down on the pigs level so that he/she isn’t as scared, obviously food is a big motivator for pigs, but limit the amount of treats you give them so you aren't just a treat dispenser. A pig can be socialized with its former family and still have a difficult time adjusting to a new home or a pig may fit right in and be great from day one. There is no exact time frame to accomplish this because every pig will have different needs, personalities and mannerisms. Remember, a pig is instinctively scared and will run as fast as they can from sounds or nosies that scare them. Make sure when you are socializing with them, its done in an area where they can't run away. Its extremely hard to catch a scared pig on the run. A smaller area is better suited because opening the door to a whole house can be overwhelming to a little piglet, it can be overwhelming to an older, bigger pig as well. Spending time with your pig needs to be done in a controlled setting where your new pig feels safe and secure. This question, as well as many others, are addressed in our new piggy parent section of the website. Click here to visit that section. We have added some pages to help you with training your pig including how to approach new pigs and make them feel comfortable. Click here to go to that page.
How do I know if my pig has a temperature?
When you first bring your pig home, you should take its temperature multiple times during multiple times of a day so you have a baseline. You will take it rectally with a digital thermometer. Please be sure to have some lubricant applied to the thermometer before inserting it into your pig. Once you establish a baseline, you will know what your pig’s normal temperature is. A baseline should be an average of temperatures taken over several days in different conditions such as, after playing outside, after waking up in the morning, after eating, etc. This will offer a much clearer picture of your pet pigs exact normal temperature range and will aid in telling you when your pig is in fact, running a fever. Every pig, based on their size and age, can run a degree higher or lower, thus the reason we recommend taking an average to establish a baseline. A normal range for potbelly pigs should be close to 98-100F, but again, this may differ slightly on breeding, size and living environments. Click here to visit the overall mini pig health section of the website where normal values for mini pigs are listed in greater detail. Younger pigs typically have a slightly higher baseline temp as well.
Where should my pig sleep if it is an indoor pet?
This is a personal decision, we suggest crate training a pig. This provides them with a safe place to go when scared and even a safe way to transport once they’re too big to sit in your lap for a car ride. Allowing your pig to sleep in the bed can contribute to spoiled pig syndrome in the future. Spoiled pig syndrome is when your pig feels like it should be the center of the universe, this can also sometimes causes aggression and protectiveness. You can also section off your pig in a smaller area, like a laundry room or not frequently used guest bathroom, with a baby gate screwed in to the wall/door jams. Make sure it can access it's litter box and bed. Also make sure to "baby proof" this sectioned off small room, before leaving your pet pig unattended for the evening. There are plenty of pigs who do not destroy houses when left outside of a crate, but this takes time. We do NOT suggest giving your pig free roam of the house for quite some time though. A big house is overwhelming to a pig and can be scary as well.
When will my pig be able to breed?
Pigs mature sexually very early on, boys can exhibit signs between 8-12 weeks, females can have their first heat cycle around 12 weeks old. If you have unaltered opposite sex pigs together, they CAN and likely WILL breed. Please be sure you spay and neuter or separate opposite sexed pigs until you are able to have this done. Although they reach sexual maturity early on, this is too young to breed pigs and they often pay the ultimate price with their lives. Small pigs often don’t survive farrowing (birthing) when bred that young. We don't recommend breeding your pig. The benefits do NOT outweigh the risks when you don't spay/neuter. We do not advocate the breeding of these precious pet pigs, there are far too many who already need homes to suggest that anyone breed more unwanted pigs. Please consider this if you have intentions of becoming a breeder. Click here to read more about the benefits of spaying/neutering your pig.
When should I spay/neuter my pig?
The earlier, the better. We recommend between 4-8 months of age if you will be taking them in to a clinic for the procedure. Some vets will treat them younger or based on a minimum weight, so call ahead and ask, again, the sooner, the better! The larger a pig is, the more expensive surgery typically costs and the riskier a surgery is. Having this procedure done at a smaller and younger age reduces the risks to your pig. Once a pig goes into heat, you’ll need to keep track of her menses so you’re able to schedule her spay between cycles. It is a more costly and riskier procedure if your pig is in active heat. Your pig may experience symptoms similar to PMS in women and spaying her also eliminates the risk of her developing reproductive organ cancers (Reproductive tumors are extremely common in female pigs who haven’t been spayed, I’ve heard as high as 90%). Boars are the same, they can be persistent with the desire to mate and can and likely will bite and attempt to mount different objects, people and other animals. Neutering them also eliminates the risk of testicular cancer. (Also see "why should I spay or neuter my pig" section by clicking here.)
How much is it to spay/neuter my pig?
This price will vary from area to area and from vet to vet. Vets with more experience tend to be a tad cheaper than those without a lot of experience. Geographical locations may also play a role in price ranges (i.e... an exotic vet located in a beach city will cost substantially more than a vet in livestock practice that also has mini pig experience and is in a more rural area). I have found that most pig vets will neuter, but not all will spay. A neuter will be less expensive than a spay because neutering is less invasive. The bigger a pig is, typically the costlier the procedure will be, as the surgeon has more tissue to dissect and it takes more anesthesia to keep your pig sedated. Please factor in the costs of anesthesia and pain control after surgery. Some vets don’t include this in the initial price and it is an additional cost. DO NOT allow anyone to do surgery on your pig without anesthesia. This is cruel and can cause such extreme pain that it can lead to other complications. Click here to visit our vet page where we have collected vets that have been recommended by others as someone who sees pigs. Unfortunately, we haven't verified each one, so you will need to call before assuming they still see pigs. If you know of a vet that does see pigs that isn't listed, please send us a quick email and let us know. If you see one listed that doesn't see pigs, please let us know that too so we can remove their name/information from the directory.
How do I know what vaccinations I need or what ones my pig has already had?
Be sure to get any and all vet/vaccination records from the previous owner of the pig. If your pig doesn’t come with any records, ask for them. If there are none available, ask the person if any vaccinations or deworming has been done. If there are no records, start documenting your records now. You and your vet can determine what vaccinations are required or needed for your pig (If you live in a city with an ordinance regarding pigs, please be sure to follow their requirements). If your pig has never been dewormed, talk to your vet about getting into a routine with regular deworming or fecal sample schedules. Some diseases are prevalent in certain areas of the country and you and your vet can discuss whether or not you need to vaccinate your pig against common diseases in your area. For pet pigs, we typically always recommend a rabies vaccine. Even though pigs are very unlikely to get rabies because of natural resistance, if your pet (even a pig) were to accidentally bite someone you would have to prove they were vaccinated for rabies or risk quarantine, fees, and possible euthanasia. It is more of a "safe than sorry" situation in this case. Ask you vet and he/she can determine what vaccinations are appropriate for your area/situation. Click here to view the recommended vaccination page.
What do I do if my pig wont eat the food I got them?
If this pig is new to your home, he or she is likely scared and isn’t interested in eating that day. Depending on the age, perhaps your pig is too young to eat pelleted feed and a milk replacer would be better suited. Piglets under 7 weeks of age typically could exhibit issues eating pelleted food, if they were not properly weaned. Always give your pig a full day after bringing it home before you panic or try to get creative with feed options. Sometimes they just need an adjustment period. Sometimes pig parents have to be creative with the pelleted feed and add to it in order to entice your pig to eat. Adding appropriate vegetables to your pigs feed can sometimes entice them to eat the pellets. If you’re having an issue with getting your pig to eat vegetables, remember, pigs have 15,000 taste buds and will not necessarily eat everything that’s placed in front of them. Adding warm water to the feed will make it soft for those with issues eating the pellets. Adding oatmeal is sometimes enticing, adding yogurt usually works for the rest, but you will have to develop your own feeding regimen. Pigs won't like everything despite the myth that pigs will eat anything. Some are extremely particular about what they will or will not eat and if given a choice of squash or a cupcake, much like a child, most pigs will not choose the most nutritious of the two. Please don’t overfeed, obesity is a common problem in potbelly pigs and once the weight is on, its extremely difficult to get the weight off. Same goes for underfeeding. Not only is it cruel, but will not keep a pig small and they need a nutritious diet to develop healthy bones, immune systems overall good health.
What things should I do now to help me in the future with my pig?
Touch your pigs face, teeth and hooves. Make them comfortable with you touching the teeth so you’re able to check them later for abscesses or rot. Touching the hooves when they’re young will allow you access to check them once they’re older. If its possible, use a file and gently file the tips of the hooves so they get used to that sensation. Once hooves are grown enough for a trim, they’ll be less likely to be terrified of the trim. Being able to touch the face will allow you access to the eyes and ears to check for abnormalities as they grow and mature. As stated earlier, crate training will provide you with a safe way to travel with your pet pig. Harness and leash training can provide you with the security of having your pig under your control in a public area, please remember, even if your pig is secure, that doesn’t stop others from being able to get to it. Always watch for other predator animals and have a plan of escape. Make it a routine to check your pig over thoroughly every day for lumps, bumps and parasites. Starting this as a piglet will help you continue as they get older and bigger. Eventually, they will know what time it is and look forward to mama/daddy pig time.
Can I take my pig for pig play dates?
Honestly, we do not recommend this. I see others that do it and are successful but all pigs differ in the way they interact with other people and especially other pigs. Pigs are herd animals and when introducing them to a new animal, especially another pig, they fight for the “top hog” position most of the time. I feel like the stress would be enormous for a couple of hours of socializing and pigs need longer than that to be properly introduced to each other. The fact that there are diseases that can be transmitted through contact with another pig also factors into my decision. You don’t know how well someone else’s pig is protected against diseases that are transferable through contact with another pig. There are some diseases that are extremely contagious and it just isn’t worth the risk to the health of your pet pig.
Do I need to bathe my pig? And what can I do about the dry skin?
There are no rules about bathing your pig, but there are suggestions. I suggest using a tear free shampoo, like Johnson & Johnson's baby shampoo, it is tear free and probably the least harsh. Pig have naturally dry skin, so the more you bathe them, the more natural oils you strip from their already dry skin. Most pigs will not like to be bathed, so you will likely hears the loudest squealing you've ever heard the first time you attempt to give a bath. (I actually took cookies and brownies to my neighbors to let them know it was going to be loud and to know what I was attempting to do so they wouldn't get worried. You may also experience a your pig urinating or a "code brown" (poop) in the tub before its all done. (This is a natural instinct for pigs to mask their whereabouts so predators couldn't follow their scent) This is natural and what most of them do. Once your pig gets into the habit or routine of getting a bath, this tends to subside as well as the protesting in general. I use Cheerios as a way to keep my pig occupied, but a lot of others have found that spreading peanut butter on the back of a bathtub tends to hold their attention making bat time much easier for both of you.
Dry skin can be difficult to manage all by itself, not to mention stripping of natural oils from the body by bathing. Coconut oil has been the recommended solution for pigs with dry skin. You can give this by mouth, added to the feed or rub the oil directly on the skin. There are some vitamin deficiencies that can be related to dry skin as well. (Click here to view vitamin/nutritional deficiencies). Ensure your pig is getting enough to drink as this can also add to the problem of dry skin. Proper hydration is a must!! Make sure your pig has fresh water available to him/her at all times. You can use one of the rubber dog brushes (And I suggest doing this outside) to help remove some of the dry skin. But there are several lotions on the market for extremely dry skin. Test them out on a small area for any potential allergic reaction before spreading all over. Click here to read "A plan for healthy skin" written by a veterinarian that you can reference as well.
Written by Brittany Sawyer 03/2015
We have several different sections of our website that discuss many different things with regards to the health and care of pigs. We have vet lists, new pig parent sections, pages that discuss common and not so common diseases and illnesses, troubleshooting behavioral issues, emergency preparedness, even basic anatomy pages plus lots more. Take some time and go through the different pages and learn as much as you can about pigs. We do have a "table of contents" page so you can quickly find information when needed that you can access by clicking here.
How big will my pig get?
Each pig will be different. Genetics plays the most important factor in how big your pig will grow. No one can give you definitive answers to this question. Some pigs have a growth spurt in the first year, some have several. Each pig may grow and develop differently than someone else pig. The amount of food you feed needs to balance the activity level of your pig though. Pigs are considered fully mature when the long plates in the epiphyseal bones close. This typically occurs around 5 years of age. Some pigs gain large amounts of weight and grow longer and taller during much of the first year, while others grow at a consistent rate throughout several years. Pigs will continue to gain weight as long as they're fed more food than what their body is using, so they can gain weight forever. They don't stop gaining weight at any magical age. Everyone has their own experiences. My vet told me that typically their biggest growth spurts are in the first year (typically, but not always) and about 1/2 of what he expects a pig to weigh at maturity is gained that first year. The second year 1/4 and the third year 1/4. Pigs don't really reach maturity (this is the debatable part) until around 5 years old. So they will always gain weight if their exercise doesn't balance out their caloric intake. That's any living breathing creature. The more you eat, the more you have to do to maintain the balance. They don't usually grow a whole lot more after 3, they may grow inches or fractions of an inch in height or length, but the first couple of years sets the tone for the rest of their life. A healthy diet is how they will flourish. (Click here to read more about nutrition) Enough food to maintain healthy growth, provide immunity, and develop healthy routines. But not so much that they have achy joints or immobility or eyesight taken away by fat. It's sooooo easy to gain and sooooo hard to get that excess weight off these guys. You can not control how tall or long your pig will get, you DO control how much weight they gain. There are always exceptions to this though, such as, a pig who was starved for the first few years, once placed on an appropriate diet, this pig may grow excessively through years 4-5. There really is no one right answer except they are NOT considered mature when they're 2 years old. Click here to see some of our followers pigs growth documentation they've allowed us to publish on the website to get a better understanding of how all pigs grow at different rates. Click here to read about the "teacup" and "micro" pigs that do not exist.
Ziggy Harness wrote "Ziggy didn't hit his first growth spurt until he was 1. Went from 40 pounds to 80 in 2 months. At 4 years old he was 250lbs. More to love!"
Sherry Boley says "My female stayed around 40-60 lbs up until she hit a year old and then holy moly, there was a growth spurt. She seemed to thicken overnight. She's turned two years old this past March and now weighs about 120 lbs. Don't be surprised if your grows quickly too."
Taylor Burns said "Mine was about 40 lbs at a year and pushing 80 by the second year. Seems like they double each year for the first 2 years and then start to taper after that.. Gaining mass mostly."
Susan Robertson says "My vet uses the general rule of thumb that a pig should gain approximately 1 pound a week for the first year."
How long does it take before my pig will come to me?
Each pig will be different in their coping abilities and how they will react to a new home. Your pig may be grieving the loss of its mother, siblings or even its human family. A bond between a pig and a person takes some time. Get down on the pigs level so that he/she isn’t as scared, obviously food is a big motivator for pigs, but limit the amount of treats you give them so you aren't just a treat dispenser. A pig can be socialized with its former family and still have a difficult time adjusting to a new home or a pig may fit right in and be great from day one. There is no exact time frame to accomplish this because every pig will have different needs, personalities and mannerisms. Remember, a pig is instinctively scared and will run as fast as they can from sounds or nosies that scare them. Make sure when you are socializing with them, its done in an area where they can't run away. Its extremely hard to catch a scared pig on the run. A smaller area is better suited because opening the door to a whole house can be overwhelming to a little piglet, it can be overwhelming to an older, bigger pig as well. Spending time with your pig needs to be done in a controlled setting where your new pig feels safe and secure. This question, as well as many others, are addressed in our new piggy parent section of the website. Click here to visit that section. We have added some pages to help you with training your pig including how to approach new pigs and make them feel comfortable. Click here to go to that page.
How do I know if my pig has a temperature?
When you first bring your pig home, you should take its temperature multiple times during multiple times of a day so you have a baseline. You will take it rectally with a digital thermometer. Please be sure to have some lubricant applied to the thermometer before inserting it into your pig. Once you establish a baseline, you will know what your pig’s normal temperature is. A baseline should be an average of temperatures taken over several days in different conditions such as, after playing outside, after waking up in the morning, after eating, etc. This will offer a much clearer picture of your pet pigs exact normal temperature range and will aid in telling you when your pig is in fact, running a fever. Every pig, based on their size and age, can run a degree higher or lower, thus the reason we recommend taking an average to establish a baseline. A normal range for potbelly pigs should be close to 98-100F, but again, this may differ slightly on breeding, size and living environments. Click here to visit the overall mini pig health section of the website where normal values for mini pigs are listed in greater detail. Younger pigs typically have a slightly higher baseline temp as well.
Where should my pig sleep if it is an indoor pet?
This is a personal decision, we suggest crate training a pig. This provides them with a safe place to go when scared and even a safe way to transport once they’re too big to sit in your lap for a car ride. Allowing your pig to sleep in the bed can contribute to spoiled pig syndrome in the future. Spoiled pig syndrome is when your pig feels like it should be the center of the universe, this can also sometimes causes aggression and protectiveness. You can also section off your pig in a smaller area, like a laundry room or not frequently used guest bathroom, with a baby gate screwed in to the wall/door jams. Make sure it can access it's litter box and bed. Also make sure to "baby proof" this sectioned off small room, before leaving your pet pig unattended for the evening. There are plenty of pigs who do not destroy houses when left outside of a crate, but this takes time. We do NOT suggest giving your pig free roam of the house for quite some time though. A big house is overwhelming to a pig and can be scary as well.
When will my pig be able to breed?
Pigs mature sexually very early on, boys can exhibit signs between 8-12 weeks, females can have their first heat cycle around 12 weeks old. If you have unaltered opposite sex pigs together, they CAN and likely WILL breed. Please be sure you spay and neuter or separate opposite sexed pigs until you are able to have this done. Although they reach sexual maturity early on, this is too young to breed pigs and they often pay the ultimate price with their lives. Small pigs often don’t survive farrowing (birthing) when bred that young. We don't recommend breeding your pig. The benefits do NOT outweigh the risks when you don't spay/neuter. We do not advocate the breeding of these precious pet pigs, there are far too many who already need homes to suggest that anyone breed more unwanted pigs. Please consider this if you have intentions of becoming a breeder. Click here to read more about the benefits of spaying/neutering your pig.
When should I spay/neuter my pig?
The earlier, the better. We recommend between 4-8 months of age if you will be taking them in to a clinic for the procedure. Some vets will treat them younger or based on a minimum weight, so call ahead and ask, again, the sooner, the better! The larger a pig is, the more expensive surgery typically costs and the riskier a surgery is. Having this procedure done at a smaller and younger age reduces the risks to your pig. Once a pig goes into heat, you’ll need to keep track of her menses so you’re able to schedule her spay between cycles. It is a more costly and riskier procedure if your pig is in active heat. Your pig may experience symptoms similar to PMS in women and spaying her also eliminates the risk of her developing reproductive organ cancers (Reproductive tumors are extremely common in female pigs who haven’t been spayed, I’ve heard as high as 90%). Boars are the same, they can be persistent with the desire to mate and can and likely will bite and attempt to mount different objects, people and other animals. Neutering them also eliminates the risk of testicular cancer. (Also see "why should I spay or neuter my pig" section by clicking here.)
How much is it to spay/neuter my pig?
This price will vary from area to area and from vet to vet. Vets with more experience tend to be a tad cheaper than those without a lot of experience. Geographical locations may also play a role in price ranges (i.e... an exotic vet located in a beach city will cost substantially more than a vet in livestock practice that also has mini pig experience and is in a more rural area). I have found that most pig vets will neuter, but not all will spay. A neuter will be less expensive than a spay because neutering is less invasive. The bigger a pig is, typically the costlier the procedure will be, as the surgeon has more tissue to dissect and it takes more anesthesia to keep your pig sedated. Please factor in the costs of anesthesia and pain control after surgery. Some vets don’t include this in the initial price and it is an additional cost. DO NOT allow anyone to do surgery on your pig without anesthesia. This is cruel and can cause such extreme pain that it can lead to other complications. Click here to visit our vet page where we have collected vets that have been recommended by others as someone who sees pigs. Unfortunately, we haven't verified each one, so you will need to call before assuming they still see pigs. If you know of a vet that does see pigs that isn't listed, please send us a quick email and let us know. If you see one listed that doesn't see pigs, please let us know that too so we can remove their name/information from the directory.
How do I know what vaccinations I need or what ones my pig has already had?
Be sure to get any and all vet/vaccination records from the previous owner of the pig. If your pig doesn’t come with any records, ask for them. If there are none available, ask the person if any vaccinations or deworming has been done. If there are no records, start documenting your records now. You and your vet can determine what vaccinations are required or needed for your pig (If you live in a city with an ordinance regarding pigs, please be sure to follow their requirements). If your pig has never been dewormed, talk to your vet about getting into a routine with regular deworming or fecal sample schedules. Some diseases are prevalent in certain areas of the country and you and your vet can discuss whether or not you need to vaccinate your pig against common diseases in your area. For pet pigs, we typically always recommend a rabies vaccine. Even though pigs are very unlikely to get rabies because of natural resistance, if your pet (even a pig) were to accidentally bite someone you would have to prove they were vaccinated for rabies or risk quarantine, fees, and possible euthanasia. It is more of a "safe than sorry" situation in this case. Ask you vet and he/she can determine what vaccinations are appropriate for your area/situation. Click here to view the recommended vaccination page.
What do I do if my pig wont eat the food I got them?
If this pig is new to your home, he or she is likely scared and isn’t interested in eating that day. Depending on the age, perhaps your pig is too young to eat pelleted feed and a milk replacer would be better suited. Piglets under 7 weeks of age typically could exhibit issues eating pelleted food, if they were not properly weaned. Always give your pig a full day after bringing it home before you panic or try to get creative with feed options. Sometimes they just need an adjustment period. Sometimes pig parents have to be creative with the pelleted feed and add to it in order to entice your pig to eat. Adding appropriate vegetables to your pigs feed can sometimes entice them to eat the pellets. If you’re having an issue with getting your pig to eat vegetables, remember, pigs have 15,000 taste buds and will not necessarily eat everything that’s placed in front of them. Adding warm water to the feed will make it soft for those with issues eating the pellets. Adding oatmeal is sometimes enticing, adding yogurt usually works for the rest, but you will have to develop your own feeding regimen. Pigs won't like everything despite the myth that pigs will eat anything. Some are extremely particular about what they will or will not eat and if given a choice of squash or a cupcake, much like a child, most pigs will not choose the most nutritious of the two. Please don’t overfeed, obesity is a common problem in potbelly pigs and once the weight is on, its extremely difficult to get the weight off. Same goes for underfeeding. Not only is it cruel, but will not keep a pig small and they need a nutritious diet to develop healthy bones, immune systems overall good health.
What things should I do now to help me in the future with my pig?
Touch your pigs face, teeth and hooves. Make them comfortable with you touching the teeth so you’re able to check them later for abscesses or rot. Touching the hooves when they’re young will allow you access to check them once they’re older. If its possible, use a file and gently file the tips of the hooves so they get used to that sensation. Once hooves are grown enough for a trim, they’ll be less likely to be terrified of the trim. Being able to touch the face will allow you access to the eyes and ears to check for abnormalities as they grow and mature. As stated earlier, crate training will provide you with a safe way to travel with your pet pig. Harness and leash training can provide you with the security of having your pig under your control in a public area, please remember, even if your pig is secure, that doesn’t stop others from being able to get to it. Always watch for other predator animals and have a plan of escape. Make it a routine to check your pig over thoroughly every day for lumps, bumps and parasites. Starting this as a piglet will help you continue as they get older and bigger. Eventually, they will know what time it is and look forward to mama/daddy pig time.
Can I take my pig for pig play dates?
Honestly, we do not recommend this. I see others that do it and are successful but all pigs differ in the way they interact with other people and especially other pigs. Pigs are herd animals and when introducing them to a new animal, especially another pig, they fight for the “top hog” position most of the time. I feel like the stress would be enormous for a couple of hours of socializing and pigs need longer than that to be properly introduced to each other. The fact that there are diseases that can be transmitted through contact with another pig also factors into my decision. You don’t know how well someone else’s pig is protected against diseases that are transferable through contact with another pig. There are some diseases that are extremely contagious and it just isn’t worth the risk to the health of your pet pig.
Do I need to bathe my pig? And what can I do about the dry skin?
There are no rules about bathing your pig, but there are suggestions. I suggest using a tear free shampoo, like Johnson & Johnson's baby shampoo, it is tear free and probably the least harsh. Pig have naturally dry skin, so the more you bathe them, the more natural oils you strip from their already dry skin. Most pigs will not like to be bathed, so you will likely hears the loudest squealing you've ever heard the first time you attempt to give a bath. (I actually took cookies and brownies to my neighbors to let them know it was going to be loud and to know what I was attempting to do so they wouldn't get worried. You may also experience a your pig urinating or a "code brown" (poop) in the tub before its all done. (This is a natural instinct for pigs to mask their whereabouts so predators couldn't follow their scent) This is natural and what most of them do. Once your pig gets into the habit or routine of getting a bath, this tends to subside as well as the protesting in general. I use Cheerios as a way to keep my pig occupied, but a lot of others have found that spreading peanut butter on the back of a bathtub tends to hold their attention making bat time much easier for both of you.
Dry skin can be difficult to manage all by itself, not to mention stripping of natural oils from the body by bathing. Coconut oil has been the recommended solution for pigs with dry skin. You can give this by mouth, added to the feed or rub the oil directly on the skin. There are some vitamin deficiencies that can be related to dry skin as well. (Click here to view vitamin/nutritional deficiencies). Ensure your pig is getting enough to drink as this can also add to the problem of dry skin. Proper hydration is a must!! Make sure your pig has fresh water available to him/her at all times. You can use one of the rubber dog brushes (And I suggest doing this outside) to help remove some of the dry skin. But there are several lotions on the market for extremely dry skin. Test them out on a small area for any potential allergic reaction before spreading all over. Click here to read "A plan for healthy skin" written by a veterinarian that you can reference as well.
Help! My pig ate a bar of soap!
Your pig will be fine. The soap may upset his stomach and he may vomit, but most don't. Make sure you have water available for him. (he is going to be clean, inside and out) We did dedicate a page to substances that are known to be toxic to pigs as well as emergency numbers to have on hand. Click here to visit that page.
Help! My pig ate paper, or a book or a toy!
These kinds of things can be harmful. They can cause obstructions and really do damage and even kill your pig. This is why we tell everyone to "piggy-proof" the home. Accidents happen to everyone and pigs get put of enclosures and get into things they're not supposed to, but try to limit the exposure as best as you can. If a non-toxic object or substance is eaten, as long as it passes through the digestive system without doing any damage, odds are your pig will be fine. but ALWAYS call your vet to see how they would like you to proceed. They may ask you to induce vomiting or give pure pumpkin or some other remedy, so make sure you call ASAP because time is of the essence. Click here to read more about 1st aid for your pig so you are prepared for any emergencies that may arise.
My pig keeps eating poop! Dog poop, pig poop, cat poop, etc...WHY?
This is especially concerning if litter is involved. Pigs will eat the litter especially the litter that has a nice fragrance. So no clay clumping type litter and no cedar chips. The urine mixed with the cedar causes a gas to form which can cause serious respiratory problems. And also, pigs have been known to eat dog, cat and even their own poop. Although gross, poop eating is a natural (although disgusting) habit of most omnivores and carnivores. Vitamins, fats and other food stuffs are passed in the stool. In addition, beneficial bacterial cultures can be found in stool. So it's not really a huge concern, but NO kissing your pig until he gives up this habit.
Do pigs shed? Are pigs hypoallergenic?
Pigs supposedly do not shed, however, this is not exactly true. Pigs "blow their coat", so in a traditional sense, it's not called shedding, but they do lose their hair once, sometimes twice a year. Most pigs do not blow their coat the first year although some do. Pigs also tend to have dry skin, so while it is not the "dander" that typically causes allergies, that flaky skin CAN sometimes be irritating to those with very sensitive skin or severe allergies. See the video below to witness a pig blowing its coat during the wintertime. (2nd time of that year) There are some people who "breakout" when the coarse bristles brush their skin, so all in all, to say they're hypoallergenic may be slightly off.
Your pig will be fine. The soap may upset his stomach and he may vomit, but most don't. Make sure you have water available for him. (he is going to be clean, inside and out) We did dedicate a page to substances that are known to be toxic to pigs as well as emergency numbers to have on hand. Click here to visit that page.
Help! My pig ate paper, or a book or a toy!
These kinds of things can be harmful. They can cause obstructions and really do damage and even kill your pig. This is why we tell everyone to "piggy-proof" the home. Accidents happen to everyone and pigs get put of enclosures and get into things they're not supposed to, but try to limit the exposure as best as you can. If a non-toxic object or substance is eaten, as long as it passes through the digestive system without doing any damage, odds are your pig will be fine. but ALWAYS call your vet to see how they would like you to proceed. They may ask you to induce vomiting or give pure pumpkin or some other remedy, so make sure you call ASAP because time is of the essence. Click here to read more about 1st aid for your pig so you are prepared for any emergencies that may arise.
My pig keeps eating poop! Dog poop, pig poop, cat poop, etc...WHY?
This is especially concerning if litter is involved. Pigs will eat the litter especially the litter that has a nice fragrance. So no clay clumping type litter and no cedar chips. The urine mixed with the cedar causes a gas to form which can cause serious respiratory problems. And also, pigs have been known to eat dog, cat and even their own poop. Although gross, poop eating is a natural (although disgusting) habit of most omnivores and carnivores. Vitamins, fats and other food stuffs are passed in the stool. In addition, beneficial bacterial cultures can be found in stool. So it's not really a huge concern, but NO kissing your pig until he gives up this habit.
Do pigs shed? Are pigs hypoallergenic?
Pigs supposedly do not shed, however, this is not exactly true. Pigs "blow their coat", so in a traditional sense, it's not called shedding, but they do lose their hair once, sometimes twice a year. Most pigs do not blow their coat the first year although some do. Pigs also tend to have dry skin, so while it is not the "dander" that typically causes allergies, that flaky skin CAN sometimes be irritating to those with very sensitive skin or severe allergies. See the video below to witness a pig blowing its coat during the wintertime. (2nd time of that year) There are some people who "breakout" when the coarse bristles brush their skin, so all in all, to say they're hypoallergenic may be slightly off.
Which is better? Male or Female?
You want a pig, but do not know which one is best, male or female. Honestly, as long as the pig gets spayed/neutered, there isn't much difference in their demeanor. Training your pig is what drives your pigs behavior.
http://www.minipiginfo.com/teaching-your-pig-tricks.html
Females normally costs more up front to spay, but typically do not need tusk trims like boys do. She will still need routine vet care, she will still need hoof trims and parasite control, vaccinations and dental care, etc.
Males are typically less costly up front, but because the male pig tusk root doesn't close as females do (females are thought to close anyways) they may require ongoing tusk trims for the rest of their lives. When intact, tusks tend to grow faster, but they will continue to grow throughout their lives regardless. Trimming the tusks opens the door for potential tusk root infections if the pulp is exposed.
Having said that, both males and females can make great additions to your family as long as you're educated, prepared and willing to work with your pig to train them. Not all pigs have super great personalities, some prefer to be left alone while others really enjoy the attention. Some pigs love to cuddle while others don't even want to come inside. You won't know which personality your pig will have until your pig is old enough to make those decisions on their own. There is nothing wrong with a pig who doesn't want to be handled. There's nothing wrong with a pig who doesn't want to cuddle with you on your couch. As we said earlier, some love it, some don't. Building a great trusting relationship with your pig is up to you though. Your pig will be as good as you train your pig to be.
You want a pig, but do not know which one is best, male or female. Honestly, as long as the pig gets spayed/neutered, there isn't much difference in their demeanor. Training your pig is what drives your pigs behavior.
http://www.minipiginfo.com/teaching-your-pig-tricks.html
Females normally costs more up front to spay, but typically do not need tusk trims like boys do. She will still need routine vet care, she will still need hoof trims and parasite control, vaccinations and dental care, etc.
Males are typically less costly up front, but because the male pig tusk root doesn't close as females do (females are thought to close anyways) they may require ongoing tusk trims for the rest of their lives. When intact, tusks tend to grow faster, but they will continue to grow throughout their lives regardless. Trimming the tusks opens the door for potential tusk root infections if the pulp is exposed.
Having said that, both males and females can make great additions to your family as long as you're educated, prepared and willing to work with your pig to train them. Not all pigs have super great personalities, some prefer to be left alone while others really enjoy the attention. Some pigs love to cuddle while others don't even want to come inside. You won't know which personality your pig will have until your pig is old enough to make those decisions on their own. There is nothing wrong with a pig who doesn't want to be handled. There's nothing wrong with a pig who doesn't want to cuddle with you on your couch. As we said earlier, some love it, some don't. Building a great trusting relationship with your pig is up to you though. Your pig will be as good as you train your pig to be.
How can I learn more?
There are resources everywhere. Start with your veterinarian, ask him/her lots of questions. Find seasoned pig owners and ask questions. We all learn in different ways, but asking questions is a great way to educate yourself. Pay careful attention to the people responding and ask yourself if their answers make sense, make sure you're not chatting with another novice pig owner. Call a pig rescue and ask if you can volunteer some time with them and ask questions while you're there. Watch how they interact with their pigs, take notes. I have been extremely fortunate in being able to meet true pig experts, in my opinion, who have not only taught me things I didn't know about pigs, but also opened the door of networking with other experienced people in the pig community so that I could have a team of resources. You are always welcome to email the page directly and ask questions, if I don't know the answer, I will find someone who does. There are groups on Facebook for the pig community, We Love Potbelly Pigs is the one I started a couple of years ago, but there are also Yahoo group chats like Pig, info and chat that you can become a member of and ask questions as well. The resources are out there, you just have to find them. The information on this site will change frequently, new information will be added and outdated information will be removed. So please check back often for updates. Also follow us on Facebook. Mini Pig Info
Unfortunately, it seems to be more and more of a common practice for super young piglets to be sold. When you take a piglet that is only days old from its mother, you are putting your piglet at risk for major health concerns. Mothers milk provides piglets with immunity and essential vitamins and nutrients that only the mother can provide. If you see an exceptionally small piglet for sale, please make sure it is old enough to be weaned and removed from the mother before you bring it home. Bottle feeding is not only dangerous, but honestly, it is no fun either. Your pig is at a much higher risk for aspirating the fluids and developing a secondary infection like pneumonia, these things can kill your pig. A pig lacking immunity is already at risk, adding insult to injury likely will kill your baby. Bottle feeding does NOT form a different or special bond, it does set you up for behavioral issues later down the line though. People who are advertising 2 day old bottle babies for sale need to be reported to animal control, not rewarded with money from buyers. Click here to visit our underage piglet page.
There are resources everywhere. Start with your veterinarian, ask him/her lots of questions. Find seasoned pig owners and ask questions. We all learn in different ways, but asking questions is a great way to educate yourself. Pay careful attention to the people responding and ask yourself if their answers make sense, make sure you're not chatting with another novice pig owner. Call a pig rescue and ask if you can volunteer some time with them and ask questions while you're there. Watch how they interact with their pigs, take notes. I have been extremely fortunate in being able to meet true pig experts, in my opinion, who have not only taught me things I didn't know about pigs, but also opened the door of networking with other experienced people in the pig community so that I could have a team of resources. You are always welcome to email the page directly and ask questions, if I don't know the answer, I will find someone who does. There are groups on Facebook for the pig community, We Love Potbelly Pigs is the one I started a couple of years ago, but there are also Yahoo group chats like Pig, info and chat that you can become a member of and ask questions as well. The resources are out there, you just have to find them. The information on this site will change frequently, new information will be added and outdated information will be removed. So please check back often for updates. Also follow us on Facebook. Mini Pig Info
Unfortunately, it seems to be more and more of a common practice for super young piglets to be sold. When you take a piglet that is only days old from its mother, you are putting your piglet at risk for major health concerns. Mothers milk provides piglets with immunity and essential vitamins and nutrients that only the mother can provide. If you see an exceptionally small piglet for sale, please make sure it is old enough to be weaned and removed from the mother before you bring it home. Bottle feeding is not only dangerous, but honestly, it is no fun either. Your pig is at a much higher risk for aspirating the fluids and developing a secondary infection like pneumonia, these things can kill your pig. A pig lacking immunity is already at risk, adding insult to injury likely will kill your baby. Bottle feeding does NOT form a different or special bond, it does set you up for behavioral issues later down the line though. People who are advertising 2 day old bottle babies for sale need to be reported to animal control, not rewarded with money from buyers. Click here to visit our underage piglet page.