Ticks are fairly common in the warmer months for most of the United States. Factoring in a mild winter for the East Coast this past year, ticks are a BIG problem in those states already and the season should just be beginning. Ticks are more than just a "pest", certain ticks can be carriers of serious illnesses like Lyme's Disease and this CAN BE spread to pigs from the bite of an infected tick. Since ticks must be in areas of high humidity to survive, they are most commonly found in grassy, brushy, wooded, and shaded areas. There are several species that vary in appearance, but all of the adults are small, round with eight legs. All ticks feed exclusively on the blood of vertebrates. There are two families of ticks: hard ticks and soft ticks. They have four stages in their life: egg, larva, nymph and adult.

Mating usually occurs while adult ticks are on the body of the host animal. The female then drops to the ground and deposits her eggs. When they are at the larvae stage, they are called "seed ticks" with six legs. They attach themselves to a host, after receiving a blood meal, they drop to the ground and emerge as eight-legged nymphs. The three most common ticks are the Brown Dog Tick/American Dog Tick, the Lone Star tick and the Blacklegged Tick. The Blacklegged Tick is a known to carry the bacteria that can cause Lyme's Disease. New diseases are being discovered year after year, and because they're newly discovered, there isn't a lot of information about the diseases yet, nor whether these new diseases can affect pigs, so keep a lookout for information regarding ticks and tickborne diseases in YOUR specific region. Click here to read the CDC's tick geographic distribution page to see what ticks may be in your area. 

If you want to see the growth comparison of different ticks, click here for comparison pictures of each species. (You will likely start feeling ghost ticks crawling on you after looking at these pictures...I did! lol)

How ticks find their hosts. Ticks find their hosts by detecting animals´ breath and body odors, or by sensing body heat, moisture, and vibrations. Some species can even recognize a shadow. In addition, ticks pick a place to wait by identifying well-used paths. Then they wait for a host, resting on the tips of grasses and shrubs. Ticks can't fly or jump, but many tick species wait in a position known as "questing".
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While questing, ticks hold onto leaves and grass by their third and fourth pair of legs. They hold the first pair of legs outstretched, waiting to climb on to the host. When a host brushes the spot where a tick is waiting, it quickly climbs aboard. For obese pigs whose bellies nearly drag the ground, this is a ticks opportunity to "climb aboard" easily. Some ticks will attach quickly and others will wander, looking for places like the ear, or other areas where the skin is thinner. For pigs, ticks typically choose an area that is softer such as behind the ears or under the legs. (the "armpit" area) However, ticks can attach anywhere. I have found them on the back, face, near the anus or shoulder area on my pig. The tick pictured below was in the "armpit" area of a pig.

How ticks spread disease. Ticks transmit pathogens that cause disease through the process of feeding. It is likely unknown if all tickborne diseases can affect pigs, but using the theory that a pig closely resembles a human as far as internal structure/organs, my guess would be that pigs could potentially contract any of the tickborne diseases that affect humans. It is always better to be safe than sorry. 

• Depending on the tick species and its stage of life, preparing to feed can take from 10 minutes to 2 hours. When the tick finds a feeding spot, it grasps the skin and cuts into the surface.
• The tick then inserts its feeding tube. Many species also secrete a cement-like substance that keeps them firmly attached during the meal. The feeding tube can have barbs which help keep the tick in place.
• Ticks also can secrete small amounts of saliva with anesthetic properties so that the animal or person can't feel that the tick has attached itself. If the tick is in a sheltered spot, it can go unnoticed.
• A tick will suck the blood slowly for several days. If the host animal has a bloodborne infection, the tick will ingest the pathogens with the blood.
• Small amounts of saliva from the tick may also enter the skin of the host animal during the feeding process. If the tick contains a pathogen, the organism may be transmitted to the host animal in this way.
• After feeding, most ticks will drop off and prepare for the next life stage. At its next feeding, it can then transmit an acquired disease to the new host.

How do you control ticks in your yard? This can be especially difficult to do, even more so if you have any wooded areas close by and even more so if you have a lot of acreage to cover. The odds are, you will not be able to eliminate ALL ticks, but you can reduce the amount and not give them an environment to thrive in by following some simple steps.

• Keep your grass cut, mow often. 
• Remove leaf litter.
• Place wood chips or gravel between lawns and wooded areas to keep ticks away from recreational areas, and keep your pigs area away from away from shrubs, bushes, and other vegetation.
• Trim back brush/bushes.
• Pick up wood and items laying around in the yard and stack them neatly in a dry area. (to help with rodent control-another source for carrying ticks)
• Discourage unwelcome animals (such as deer, raccoons, and stray dogs) from entering your yard by constructing secure fences. (which should already be in place for your pig)
• Remove old furniture, mattresses, or trash from the yard that may give ticks a place to hide.
• Use pet safe pesticides like DE. 

Tick Habitats. These are the places where you may find ticks, their eggs or tick nests. Ticks need humid, shaded areas to survive and they will move rather than be "discovered". 

• All cracks and crevices in an infested premise must be treated for good control. All tick life stages may be found behind baseboards, around window door moldings, or in furniture. Newly hatched larvae can climb, so all cracks and crevices need to be treated. 
• Pigs do not become infested with brown dog ticks by direct contact with dogs, these ticks can be carried by animals other than dogs.
• Ticks feeding on a pig drop off and molt before they will resume host-seeking behavior and attach to another pet/animal.
• YOUR house should be thoroughly cleaned to eliminate as many ticks as possible also, same rule applies, ticks can drop off anywhere in your house, lay eggs or just wait for another appropriate host. 
• Pig pens, pig houses, and structures occupied by any pets should be thoroughly treated to control ticks that have dropped off the pig or other animals, who may reside in harborage areas. Residual pet-safe insecticide sprays and dust should be applied carefully to all potential tick harborage areas. (Check with your vet before treating your pigs area to confirm that a product is safe for use in a pigs area) Vacuuming is very helpful inside the outdoor enclosures to pick up any that may be lingering around and just waiting for a host. Pig bedding and pig areas should be cleaned well. Ticks can detach and fall off in your pigs house, leaving one more area that your pig can get ticks from

Tick Nests. It is important to know what to look out for as well. The tick "nest" can harbor thousands of "seed ticks" that are almost microscopic in size and barely visible to the eye. If you should walk into a nest, you may see something crawling on your clothing if you look closely enough, but they are the size of a pen point. Should these ticks wander around long enough, they can find a spot or drop off and wait for another host. This is especially important for pigs since they do tend to lay around a lot. Should your pig walk through a nest and pick up hundreds of seed ticks, your pig may present with a bunch of bumps that look as if the pig has been bitten by a slew of insects, but more importantly, these seed ticks may also be in their bedding, so you must eliminate ALL of them or your pig will likely be re-infested over and over again.

A female can lay 3000-4000 eggs at a time after a blood meal. This is what you may see in the yard or on a surface. These are tick eggs or nests and they will hatch and this vicious cycle repeats over and over and over again. Another great resource is the tick encounter resource center which has a FAQ section that can help you determine what parts of your yard may need work to lessen the amount of ticks living there. 

Seed tick infestation on a pig. A pig presented with bumps under the front two legs, normal washing began along with hydrocortisone cream. After a day, it was determined that seed ticks were the cause as shown on the last picture on a white cloth. Furthermore, the nest was discovered nearby and this particular pig was laying in that area day after day, so until it was identified and destroyed, each tick had to be removed night after night. Just one example of how these tiny ticks might present on a pig.

Preventing ticks on your pig. Tick bites on pigs may be hard to detect. Signs of tickborne disease may not appear for 7-21 days or longer after a tick bite, so watch your pig closely for changes in behavior or appetite if you suspect that your pig has been bitten by a tick. I do a routine tick check every single day for my pig. Its a good habit to add to your routine since having a cooperative pig can help detect ticks that may have not even attached themselves yet. If you cannot prevent them altogether, the next best thing is to have the ability to remove them as soon as possible.

• Check your pigs for ticks daily, especially after they spend time outdoors.
• If you find a tick on your pig, remove it right away.
• Ask your veterinarian to conduct a tick check at each exam.
• Talk to your veterinarian about tickborne diseases in your area.
• Reduce tick habitat in your yard. (listed above)
• Talk with your veterinarian about using tick preventives for your pig. My vet recommends frontline or advantage plus for dogs to use on my pig. He stated that you must be sure to get the correct dose based on the weight class the medication was designed for, such as small dogs 3-15 pounds, medium 16-50 pounds, etc. (that is NOT the correct weight classes, just an example)

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Tick removal from pigs

OR...
You can purchase your very own tick specific removal tool!
Tick Ease removal tweezers takes the guess work out of it as does the Tick Twister. These products help to ensure you are grabbing the tick in the right place by creating an opening to fit any size tick allowing you to gently remove it from your pig. 

**Avoid "painting" a tick with nail polish or Vaseline, using a heat source such as a match freshly lit and blown out for tick removal. The goal is to remove it quickly, not wait for it to detach. Some of the "home/all natural solutions" are based on theories using essential oils and such, these can be tried as a preventative, but we do not recommend using these methods for tick removal. If a rash or fever develops within several weeks of a tick bite/being removed, contact your veterinarian. 

Are there any "homemade" remedies available to control the tick population? Of course there are. However, it is obviously unknown if these DIY treatments are effective. If whomever created the recipe for tick destruction has never seen a tick on their animal, it may be very effective, but that is someone claiming this, not scientifically proven. There are known pesticides that are effective and even animal friendly. So choose carefully. Read up on whatever you're putting in a bottle and spraying around your pigs bedding area or actually on your pig. I wouldn't trust some random internet person that I do not personally know. But, there are some relatively harmless homemade solutions that may work for you...as usual, check with your vet before treating ANYTHING yourself. Read up on appropriate treatments by credible organizations before picking what you will use. This is a great place to start. ​http://tickwarriors.com

Pig approved commercial/processed treatments: Several products contain a number of repellents and insecticides, and are registered for direct application to pigs. These include: Inca Ban Fly insecticidal spray for animals (250mL and 500mL quantities); Musca Ban insecticidal spray (125mL, 500 mL and 5L); Value Plus fly spray in the same quantities; Flygon insecticidal and repellent spray in the same quantities and Ecovet Insect Repellent (500mL). 

Pour–on products such as Taktic Topline®, which are registered for use in pigs for the control of mange may also provide some protection from ticks, as noted above in relation to biting fly control. Again, as mentioned above, Frontline and/or Advantage plus for dogs can also be used to prevent ticks in pigs. You MUST pay careful attention to the weight limits and purchase the correct weight class for your pig. UltraCruz Equine Natural Fly and Tick Spray is a product that can be purchased that is often used for horses. Bronco E Equine Fly Spray also repels ticks and is safe to use for horses, people and pigs. Permethrin 10% is deemed safe for use in pigs. Commercial farms use products like Prolate/Lintox-HD on pigs without issues. Tick Warriors All Natural Yard Spray is an excellent product.

*I am quite sure there are many more DIY methods that others may use or other products that have been effective at controlling ticks in their area, we encourage you to leave a comment on the blog or on our social media pages with your recipe, but I also must post a warning to those who may simply use what they see as credible. Please do NOT use anything in your pigs area or on your pig without first making sure it is safe to use!! 

Anecdotal reports suggest that use of equipment such as portable mist blowers to apply these products to the pigs at for nightly intervals works well. 

**It is important to use the products according to label directions and keep them well away from pig feed and water sources to avoid chemical contamination and risk of chemical residue. With any of these products, I would spray the solution on a rubber brush and brush on, not spray directly on your pig since it would be very easy to accidentally spray near or in the eyes/mouth.

Hopefully all pigs and their human families can be as tick free as possible this summer season! For more tips/information regarding summer seasonal concerns, click here to read more!

Resources: ​https://www.cdc.gov
http://www.slate.com/tick
http://www.tickencounter.org/tick
http://www.homeremediescare.com
​https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem
​https://homeremedyshop.com/home-remedies-for-ticks
​http://www.thepigsite.com
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There are times when a pig gets sick, you have no idea why, but all of a sudden, you're cleaning up vomit and your pig has no interest in food. (strange, I know) Pigs have a natural instinct to NOT show signs of weakness, so when your pig is visibly showing signs of being sick, your pig is probably super sick. They are prey animals, so in the wild, a sign of weakness can get you killed. Pigs mask illnesses until they can no longer act like everything is ok. They're not like kids (or some men) who whine and cry when they're sick, they are strong and sometimes a behavioral change is the only sign that something may be wrong. They gradually start showing other signs as they get sicker, but there have even been times when the parents didn't notice anything was wrong and they woke up to find their pig had passed away overnight. Know your pig, know your pigs routine. Know how often your pig pees and poops through any given day. Know your pigs normal core body temperature. Know your pigs behavior. Knowing these things will help you see subtle changes that can literally save your pigs life.

The very first thing you need to do is check for a fever. Pigs core body temperature's shouldn't be more than 100 degrees in my experience; although each pigs normal temperature can be slightly different. Mini pigs have a lower core temperature than farm pigs and likely slightly lower than piglets whose tend to be a bit higher. Cathy Zolicani, DVM, was kind enough to write up an article about dealing with a vomiting pig and you can check that article out in our first aid section or by clicking here. Know that just because your pig doesn't have a temperature right now, doesn't mean your pig will not develop one in a couple of hours. Things can go from slightly worried to full panic mode super quick. A normal temp for most mini pigs older than 3 months is somewhere between 98-100. If my pig has a fever of 101? I personally monitor and take it again every 4 hours or so until its normal. At 102, I treat the fever. At 103 or above?, I call my vet. Having a low grade temperature can be helpful because it is the body's natural way of fighting an infection. A higher core temperature is a result of WBC's (white blood cells-the body's cells used to target and attack infections or foreign objects introduced in the body) and pyrogens, which are the chemicals fevers produce. These pyrogens make their way to the brains hypothalamus, which is the temperature regulator for the body, but when these pyrogens bind to certain receptors in the brain, the result is an elevated body temperature, otherwise known as a fever. Some of the pictures below are graphic....

It is so exciting when you are bringing a pig home for the first time, but, if this pig is new to your family, it can take a few days to adjust to a new home, new family, new rules and a new routine. Since pigs are fairly routine animals and do not like change, some pigs will refuse to eat for a day or so after making a transition to a new home. Not to mention how scared pigs are when moved to an unfamiliar place, away from his mama and/or siblings (if this is a piglet), and placed in an unknown area with people hovering over them, that would be scary for any animal, but especially to one that is preyed upon naturally. If a pig in these circumstances hasn't eaten in more than 48 hours OR if this is a piglet and there is no eating or drinking after 24 hours, I would call a vet whether there is a fever or not, just to be on the safe side. Animals can only survive for so many days without eating, but even less without drinking. You can view our new pig parent section by clicking here for tips on how to make this process smoother for you and your pig.

But, what if your pig DOES have a temp? Typically, that means the body is trying to fight off something. The something is what needs to be determined. Elevated temperatures in pigs happen for a number of reasons, as does vomiting. Is it hot outside? Your pigs core temp can be elevated due to heat. Your pig can also vomit because of getting too hot, this is one of the signs of a heat stroke. You can read more about summertime issues by clicking here and reading our seasonal issues section.

There are possibilities of bacterial or viral infections as well. If you choose not to vaccinate your pig, there are a host of bacterial infections your pig can get even if there is only one pig and your pig has never had contact with another. Some of these major illnesses are in the soil your pig digs around in. Erysipelas is a great example of a bacterial infection that your pig can contract without ever being exposed to another pig. It IS found in the soil. Other animals spread disease and carry pathogens from property to property. Some diseases are caused by other species waste, some are literally carried over by birds dropping rodents or their remains onto your property, etc. Click here to read more about erysipelas. Your pig won't necessarily vomit as a sign of this infection/illness, but your pig will likely stop eating and drinking, become lethargic and most likely run a fairly high temperature. This isn't the only illness your pig can get, we have several major illness listed in our pig health section that you can read about by clicking here. Pneumonia is another common illness that can suddenly show up literally within hours. There may or may not be signs of illness leading up to your pig going off feed, but there is usually a high temperature as well. Click here to read more about pneumonia. If you are curious about vaccinations, you can click here to read more about what is available or suggested for pet pigs.

There is also the possibility of obstructions. Intestinal obstructions aren't something that we see every single day, but it is fairly common. Pigs like to eat things, well, pigs like to eat EVERYTHING. This is problematic for a few reasons. 1, they tend to eat things that we wouldn't normally feed them. (trash, walls, carpet) 2, they don't understand that something may not be good for them or potentially toxic or dangerous for them to eat. 3, pigs tend to swallow without doing much chewing. Because of this, the risk for them swallowing something too big to pass through the intestines is higher than some other animals. 4, most pigs aren't as hydrated as we would like them to be, especially in the hotter months. Not being hydrated can lead to constipation which can lead to fecal impaction and ultimately, a blockage. Click here to read about constipation and how to help a constipated pig. 5, parasites!! Worms in the intestinal tract can bind together and cause a blockage, as gross as that is. Parasite control is important. Anti-parasite medications can be given orally and can rid your pig of common worms as well as other parasites. Click here to learn more about getting your pig on a deworming schedule and what medications you can purchase to routinely treat for parasites.

Based on what your pig has access to, most pigs are at risk. Pigs will eat rocks, plastic bags, wrappers from food items, blankets, even hay can bind up in the intestinal tract and cause a blockage. I have seen cases where undigested pellets caused an obstruction that required surgery. (which is one of the reasons why we suggest soaking pellets before feeding, not only does this allow them to swell and help your pig feel full, versus depending on your pig to drink enough water to get the pellets to the swelled state in order to give the the brain the signal to tell the stomach it has had enough to eat. Soaking the pellets also reduces the chances of the pellets being digested in their pelleted form and causing a blockage)

Sometimes bowel obstructions aren't because of anything ingested. There are times when the bowels twist and because of that twisted gut, the bowels can't operate as they're intended causing no blood flow to that area and necrosis. The necrotic bowel will never function again and only surgery to remove the dead parts can correct something like this. Click here to read more about obstructions.

​The take away from this? If your pig has a fever, is vomiting and hunched over attempting to poop but isn't able to or nothing is coming out? That is an emergency. Get your pig to the vet!

Most people see they're running low on pig feed and go ahead and buy a new bag before they run out. That is obviously the responsible thing to do. However, depending on how you store your pig feed, whether that be in the bag or you use a container of some kind, be sure to dump excess feed at the bottom out into something else before adding new feed to the top. Feed does go bad, feed does spoil, feed does mold. These can all cause vomiting in your pig. Spoiled feed can actually cause many more problems than just vomiting. They can actually die from ingesting the resulting toxic substance usually referred to as mycotoxins which is actually a toxic product produced by a fungus/mold. ALWAYS check the feed for mold. Use clear storage containers so you can see the bottom at any given time. Moist, hot and dark places are ideal for molds to thrive. An example of this occurring is a family that keeps their pigs feed in the bag in their small laundry room. The heat in the room from the dryer can cause moisture in the air, the dark conditions in the bag are a perfect spot for mold to live and the heat from the dryer helps the process come together. Between the three things, this is the perfect environment for mold to thrive. Click here to read more about spoiled/bad feed.

​Let me add, once you see the mold, it's been there for a while. You can NOT just remove the surface mold and feed the rest to your pig, mold has a root like system and that whole batch of feed needs to be thrown away, maybe even sent for testing. Contact the company that made that brand of feed and let them know. Trust me when I say, they want to know when theres a problem with their feed. Most major brand feed companies ask that you notify them if you experience moldy food. They will likely ask you to send a small sample of that feed to them so they can determine why it is moldy and/or proof of purchase. (for the date feed was sold versus when it should've been removed from the shelf at the store/expired) Keep your feed bags regardless, there are programs in place where some of our piggy friends are using those feed bags and making totes to sell and the profits go to some of the pig rescues. Click here to learn more about that program. The information about saving the feed bags is at the bottom of that page. 

If your pig refuses feed, check inside the mouth. Although we suggest routinely checking your pig over including inside the mouth on a daily basis, some pigs aren't necessarily huge fans of this. Check your pigs teeth to be sure there isn't some type of abscess or infection in the mouth. Perhaps there is a loose tooth that is causing discomfort and you'll need to make sure your pig gets food that is easy to chew or maybe there is decay or a toothache, possibly even a broken tooth that is making food difficult to eat. Depending on the age of your pig, you can expect some teeth to fall out and new teeth to erupt. Click here to view our dental section of the website to learn how to care for your pigs teeth. (The dental section is after the hoof section)

Don't forget the occasional pig overeating. Pigs will sometimes find their feed, rip the bag open, knock over the storage container, open the cabinet and grab it (or something else) and flat out overeat. Pigs will be pigs and if a source of food is found and they find that is tastes good? yeah, they're going to continue eating until they vomit and they may eat that and then eat some more food if theres no one there to stop them. Depending on what kind of food was eaten, there are some simple things you can do to help your pig that gorges on food like NOT feeding them anymore that day, maybe give them something to settle their stomach or just let them lay around and leave them be. You can click here to learn more about how to handle a pig that gorges on food.

These aren't the only reasons why a pig loses interest in eating and/or drinking, but in our experience, these are the most common. Knowing the reasons can sometimes help you stop these kinds of situations from ever occurring. Keep researching, continue to educate yourself. We try and post blogs and create pages when we see common questions and situations occurring, but if you see a concerning trend going on in pig world, let us know and we can write up an article about it after researching. Remember to establish a relationship with a vet so you're not scrambling to find one when you are having an emergency situation. You can view our updated vet list by clicking here. There are more than 1000 vets listed. We have verified that each vet (Most have been verified, on the list sees pigs in some capacity. There are a handful left that were in the process of calling still) Obviously each one will have different levels of care they're able to provide, so if you are having a complicated medical issue, your vet may refer you to one of the university hospitals. Familiarize yourself with an emergency plan. Ask your vet who you should call for after hours emergencies, because we all know pigs don'y usually get sick Monday-Friday between 9am and 5pm, they get sick on nights, weekends and holidays. Most university vet hospitals are open 24/7. Find the closest one to you and call and ask them what their emergency protocol is, just so you're prepared for any situation. Click here to see that list. 

We also have a health document that is downloadable/printable on our website. Using this before you call the vet can help you answer questions your vet may have for you about the situation. You can see that form by clicking here.

If there are ever questions about your pig in a crisis or urgent situation, and by urgent we mean high fever, lethargic, off feed, etc,  CALL YOUR VET!!!!!!!! Do NOT waste time asking people for opinions. Some of these conditions can be treated if your vet is able to intervene in time. Let the first opinion be from your vet, not people you don't know. Familiarize yourself with illnesses that need immediate attention so you don't even have to ask others what they think.